Давление в шине — переменная величина, зависящая от температуры шины. В свою очередь температура шины зависит от:
- температуры воздуха;
- температуры дорожного полотна;
- объема воздуха, поступающего на обдув тормозных дисков (т.е. от настроек воздуховодов обдува тормозов);
- агрессивности пилотажа.
Давление в шинах, настраиваемое в разделе настроек “Шины”, — давление в непрогретых шинах, которое будет меняться в течение заезда в соответствии с вышеперечисленными факторами. В жаркую погоду изначальное давление следует снизить, а в холодную — увеличить.
Определить корректность давления в каждой из четырех шин можно при помощи виджета шин и тормозов пользовательского интерфейса, где каждая шина символизируется тремя столбцами:
- если все три столбца одинаковой высоты, давление в соответствующей шине находится в диапазоне оптимальных значений;
- если центральный столбец выше двух соседних, давление избыточное;
- если центральный столбец ниже двух соседних, давление недостаточное.
На момент версии игры 1.9.2 границы диапазона оптимального давления следующие:
Getting started in the world of sim racing can be a daunting task with a whole host of jargon, unspoken rules and just general complexity to the setup of your chosen sim. Here at The Coach Dave Academy, we want to ensure that anyone who wants to start sim racing can jump in and have fun no matter their experience or skill level. So much so that we have decided to put together the beginner’s guide to Assetto Corsa Competizione.
The guide has been broken down into six different steps so if you already have a head start skip to the section you need help with. Additionally, throughout the guide there will be a number of other articles linked within that will go into more detail on particular topics.
1. Before You Begin
Before you go to steam and buy the first edition you see of ACC there are a few details that need to be understood. The main point of interest before purchasing is that ACC comes with several different Downloadable Content (DLC) packs that add a host of new cars and tracks to the game. Without some of these packs, there are pieces of content you will not be able to experience within the sim.
Content
The majority of the content within ACC will focus on the SRO licenced series. If you are familiar with the real-life series then many of the tracks and cars will be familiar to you.
Currently, ACC host a range of the SRO series including the GT World Challenge Europe (formerly Blancpain Sprint & Endurance series) 2018, 2019 2020 season, the 2019 Intercontinental GT Challenge and a number of tracks from the UK and American GT series.
Not just that, ACC also includes a number of different GT with both GT3 and GT4 cars being present in the sim! If you are still looking for something different, feeder series cars have been added, including Porsche Cup, Super Trofeo and 488 Challenge cars.
Below is a handy guide that outlines all available DLCs with all their content and prices. Our Recommendation at Coach Dave Academy is to focus on the packs including new tracks as they will add the most to your sim racing experience in ACC. Oh, and remember, you can purchase setups to help you find pace at any of these tracks in any car, in the form of either a setup bundle or as part of our ACC Setup Subscription.
| DLC Name | Content | Price |
| American Track Pack | 3 new circuits from the Americas. 1. Circuit of the Americas 2. Indianapolis Motor Speedway 3. Watkins Glen International |
£14.99 |
| Challengers Pack | 5 new Vehicles: 1. Audi R8 LMS GT3 EVO II 2. BMW M2 CS Racing 3. Ferrari 488 GT3 Challenge Evo 4. Lamborghini Huracan Super Trofeo EVO 2 5. Porsche 911 GT3 Cup (Type 992) |
£9.99 |
| British GT Pack | 3 new tracks from the UK 1. Donnington Park Circuit 2. Oulton Park Circuit 3. Snetterton Circuit |
|
| 2020 GT World Challenge | Addition of the world-famous Autodromo Internationale Enzo e Dino Ferrari (Imola). As well as two new cars: 1. Ferrari 488 GT3 EVO 2. Mercedes-AMG GT3 EVO In addition, this adds the 2020 GT World Challenge season including the liveries, tyre models, BoP and new track surfaces |
£7.99 |
| GT4 Pack | This adds 11 new cars from the GT4 Category. 1. Alpine A110 GT4 (7 new liveries) 2. Aston Martin Vantage GT4 (7 new liveries) 3. Audi R8 LMS GT4 (4 new liveries) 4. BMW M4 GT4 (8 new liveries) 5. Chevrolet Camaro GT4R (2 new liveries) 6. Ginetta G55 GT4 (1 new livery) 7. KTM X-Bow GT4 (3 new liveries) 8. Maserati MC GT4 (1 new livery) 9. Mclaren 570S GT4 (5 new liveries) 10. Mercedes AMG GT4 (10 new liveries) 11. Porsche 718 Cayman GT4 Clubsport (4 new liveries) |
£17.99 |
| Intercontinental GT Pack | Adds 4 new circuits from across the globe. 1. Kyalami Grand Prix Circuit (South Africa) 2. Suzuka Circuit (Japan) 3. Weathertech Raceway Laguna Seca (USA) 4. Mount Panorama Circuit (Australia) |
£12.49 |
Simulation
ACC is one of the deepest simulations on offer at the moment for any sim racer looking for a close-to-real-life GT car experience. It’s not a racing game; it’s a racing simulation. Being a simulation, you need to treat the car you’re driving like driving a real car on a real track.
However, there are plenty of arcade racers that can quench your thirst for that type of racing. When it comes to choosing between Assetto Corsa and Assetto Corsa Competizione, there are subtle and in-depth differences that should help you decide where to begin.
Steering Wheel Setup
Since you will be racing in something almost identical to a real car, you get the best experience using a wheel with decent force feedback. A Thrustmaster T150/TMX or Logitech G29/G920 would be the minimum spec wheel that we can suggest. Assetto Corsa Competizione IS playable with a gamepad/controller. You may still lose 90% of the simulation experience and 100% of the fun driving with anything other than a wheel.
Pro sim racers go to extreme lengths to ensure they have the best sim racing setups to perform at the highest level. However, racing wheels are not cheap and are often on the pricier side of gaming accessories. It is perfectly understandable if you aren’t willing to dish out 200€ or more on a hunch. If your still struggling to choose which wheel is for you then try out our Best Sim Racing Wheels For ACC article to find the perfect set up for you.
PC Hardware Requirements
Another note: ACC is very resource-intensive, and is biased towards newer hardware. Your 5-year-old Intel i5 might run Doom Eternal on medium to high settings with a constant 60 FPS, but that very processor will feel wholly inadequate calculating the physics and AI in this game. The same goes for your GPU. Once more than 20 cars are visible, you can see your performance melt away faster than an iceberg in 2030.
For the best racing experience, it is recommended that you have a pc from the 20 series from NVIDIA or the RX 5600 series for AMD cards. CPUs can be a slightly different story due to the large range of offerings, but a good starting point is the 9900k offerings from intel or any of the 5000 offerings from AMD.
It is important to note many other setups can work depending on your preference for resolutions, VR or FPS. Be sure to do your own research and find something within your budget as the PC is just one part of enjoying the sim racing experience.
2. Initial Start-Up
When you first boot the game, you need to do a couple of things before you can go driving. Many of these will be trial and error based, and you need to find whatever suits you best.
ACC Graphics Settings
Since this game intensively uses your PC’s resources, you might need to fine-tune your graphics settings. Depending on how powerful your PC is, you might want to start with the low, medium, or high pre-sets. We strongly advise against using the epic settings for racing unless you have the beefiest of rigs. Be sure to lower the mirror quality, mirror distance, visible opponents (sixteen suffices), and turn on HLOD for an optimal experience (for an extensive list, read here). Make sure you do a practice race against AI to test your settings since the AI is very CPU intensive, whereas the game itself is very GPU intensive.
More (and consistent) frames per second equate to a better learning experience in a game like this. If you notice that your performance is fluctuating, don’t be too proud and just turn on v-sync. Smoothness is key. However, V-sync will introduce a small amount of delay into the system so try both on and off to see what you prefer.
ACC Control Settings
The controls also need a bit of fine-tuning, the typical term you will often hear thrown around is Force feedback. If you don’t have a clear understanding of this term or any other below, we have a handy force feedback set-up guide to get you up to speed.
For those looking for a quick and dirty set-up to get started here are some recommendations. Ideally, you put the gain as high as you can control. This makes it easier to spot when your car starts sliding. Our recommended settings are; Minimum Force at 0%, Dynamic Dampening at 100% (unless you have a budget wheel), and Road Effects at 0%. The frequency should be at 333Hz for mid to high-end wheels. And, make sure you map the buttons the way you want them.
It’s crucial to map “Cycle HUD MFD Up” to an easily accessible button on the wheel as it allows you to change the Multi-Functional Display (MFD) and through that will enable you to make changes to the car and your pit strategy during races. All settings matter, right down to your steering rotation angles!
View Settings
Getting your view settings sorted adequately is very important to judge your speed and position on the racetrack. You want to reflect the track to what you would see in real life from your seated position. You can change the view settings from a practice session, showing real-time results to your input. First, use a (vertical) FOV calculator to calculate the correct setting. For those looking for a better understanding of FOV in ACC, we have a more in-depth guide that takes you through some of the nuances of FOV.
Next, change the camera’s height, lateral position, distance, and pitch to reflect your real-world seated position. Make sure to make it feel natural, while also optimising what you can see. Don’t be afraid to change your seated position as well to try out what works for you.
3. Achieving The Ratings
Before you can start your online racing career, you need to work on your Ratings. Ratings are Kunos’ way to measure Driver Level and allow server owners to establish thresholds and lobbies with a minimum entry-level requirement in terms of Ratings. The biggest hurdles in improving your Ratings are Track and Safety Ratings.
What is a Track Rating (TR) in ACC?
Track Ratings are quickly gained if you know what you are doing. If you don’t, you are going to have a bad time working around it. Remember the concept of driving these cars like you’re on a real track? This is a test to see whether you can do just that. You can get one star for completing one clean lap.
Sounds easy enough, but you also need to maintain a certain pace for it to count. You get two stars for two subsequent clean laps and three stars for four subsequent clean laps. This is an excellent way to learn the tracks and the behaviour of a car. Feel free to take a comfortable vehicle to drive, like the Aston Martin AMR V8. You might also want to start with an easy track, like Monza.
What is a Safety Rating (SA) in ACC?
The Safety Rating is the other major hurdle. Before you can improve your Safety Rating, you need to achieve a minimum value for Consistency (CN) and Car Control (CC) by putting in clean, consistent laps. Safety Rating, on the other hand, is gained by driving close to other drivers.
You need to get within 0.7 seconds of a car (and stay within 1.2 seconds) to get ‘Trust’ points. Hit the other car, and you gain ‘OBWP’ (penalty) points. The more kilometres you drive near others, the higher SA you obtain. You also get bonus Trust for finishing races. The best way to gain SA when you have a negligible value is to do 20-30 minute short races against the AI. Put the AI’s skill on a similar level to your own so that you can stay close behind them and don’t crash into them.
Note: just because you have enough SA to get into a server with a 30 SA threshold, doesn’t mean you should enter it. It is better to boost your SA further (preferably to at least 60) to skip the trench.
4. Your Beginner ACC Setup
When you are just starting, you will not understand the intricacies of car setups, which is okay for the time being. Car setups are fundamental, but you need to build yourself up to that level to experiment with different setup configurations for every race confidently. You can do that by focusing on driving cleanly, hitting your brake markers, etc. Just take the safe (or, if you are daring, the aggressive) pre-set setups and hit the track. However, there are a few things that you do need to keep in mind.
Fuel
You need to put in enough fuel for the race. If you want to do a straightforward calculation, simply multiply the race time in minutes by 2.2. This will be a ballpark estimate. If you desire to calculate the fuel you need for any race properly, you can use one of the widely available fuel calculators or look at our fuel management strategy guide or you could remember the formula:
“FR = ((TR * 60) / TL ) * FL + (2 * FL)”
(FR=fuel for the race, TR=race duration in minutes, FL=Fuel per lap as calculated by the game, TL=Lap Time of the leader in seconds).
Tire Pressures
A lot of things influence tire pressures, air temperatures being the main thing. This temperature varies wildly per server, so you have to change the tire pressures accordingly if you don’t want to overheat your tires. Go out for a few (3 advised) laps and see what the pressures turn out to be. You should aim for ~27.7 PSI. Anything within 27-28 PSI is good, but ideally, you want to be as close to 28 without going over to maximise performance. Tire pressures are a vital part of understanding how tire pressures influence your performance. The general rule of thumb is 0.1 psi change per 1c change in ambient temperature
Traction Control
A wide range of people who came from (presumably) the F1 games take pride in driving cleanly without Traction Control. F1 does not have any Traction Control provisions in real life, and hence, driving without TC makes complete sense. But when they play ACC, the first thing they may do is turn off TC and then complain about others using the system. Don’t be that person. GT3 cars are designed to run with Traction Control on; they use it in real life. The power delivery is not intended to be used without Traction Control.
Please use Traction Control to make your life, and race, easier.
Engine Modes
These cars have different engine modes too. Most vehicles at the very least have a qualifying mode, a race mode and a safety-car mode. You can use these modes to save fuel during the warm-up lap or the race.
Some cars (Mercedes) even require you to change from qualifying to race mode for the race if you want to do a 60-minute race. Mode ‘1’ often gives the most power but the highest consumption. Using MoTeC as your telemetry tool allows you to analyse your engine revs and behaviour amongst other things, helping you understand your racing style much better than by just vision.
Diving Deeper
The above-mentioned settings are simply there to get you started, the world of making set-ups can feel like a cryptic new language at times. Many people have spent several years across different sims to get that feel and understanding of what a car does and what setup tweaks are needed.
Often this level of understanding is only needed for the most hardcore of competitive sim racers. There are a few basic lessons that you can learn to help you get started. The Coach Dave Academy has detailed each and every set-up parameter and how these can be used to your advantage when setting up your favourite car in our Ultimate ACC Car Setup Guide.
It is key to remember don’t be put off by the complexity of some of the detail that is needed within set-up changes, the key is patience and practice, as they say, Rome wasn’t built in a day.
Buying ACC Setups
If you don’t want the hassle of adjusting the stock setups (which are already pretty good) to your liking, you could also buy ACC setups which have been developed by the best drivers/engineers in the business. If you’ve got the money to spare, buying a setup is a great way to save time, especially for beginners. Not just that, using these setups eases the pressure on you to extract the maximum out of your car mechanically, allowing you to focus entirely on your driving. Lastly, utilising these setups and studying each track map will help you step up your game at a rapid pace.
5. ACC Racing Etiquette
Now that you have lined up on the grid for your first race, there are a couple of things you should know when it comes to on-track procedures. Besides learning how a race session (an event) works, you also need to understand the basics of planning your strategy, not just for the race but also for everything around it.
Free Practice
Use this space to get used to the car, and the track, and try to get your tire pressures right under the weather conditions present in the server. You can race against people in free practice, as long as you don’t excessively block other racers.
If you are confident enough in your basic parameters and the track layout use this session to practice a number of different racing scenarios. Firstly, try a low fuel run and get used to the car at its lightest weight as you would in a qualifying session. Once you are happy with your peak performance add fuel to your car, ideally the amount needed for the upcoming race, and run several laps to simulate the feeling of the car and the general tyre wear you will experience during the race.
This time in free practice can be very valuable don’t squander it and be left with unexpected scenarios when it really matters, free practice is for learning and making mistakes.
Qualifying
Now is the time to show everyone your absolute best over one lap and make sure you get to the front of the grid for the race. Make sure you stay calm and remember what you practised, this session is no different you just need to put all the pieces together.
A key element of any good qualifying session is to slowly build up the pace, your best lap should always come just as the session is about to end. This is when the track is the most rubbered in and confidence is at an all-time high.
Although Qualifying is about solo performance be aware of your surroundings, and use your mini-map to judge whether people on a fast lap are close when exiting the pits. If you get blue flags during qualifying, that means someone on a timed lap is approaching you. Please let them pass your car. Also, when starting a flying lap yourself, make sure there is about a 2-3 second gap between you and the person in front to make sure you don’t hinder each other.
Put all these elements together and you will find that ultimate pace with little stress and panic.
The Race
Starting procedure
There are two procedures: a short one where all cars are released simultaneously and drive in double-file to the start. Then there is a lengthy, full lap warm-up procedure (recognisable by it starting on the grid). In this case, cars are released one by one as they drive single-file to the end, where they need to start driving double-file again.
Follow the instructions of the widget on the screen. Cars are ghosted, so you don’t have to worry about bumping into anyone. Another tip: holding your brakes is a better way to warm up your tires (and brakes) compared to merely weaving. Use this to your advantage!
Turn 1
The race starts with people driving two or even three or four wide towards the first corner. However, the corner offers space for only 1-2 cars wide at most. This means that there will be an accordion effect of people trying to find their place for the first corner by braking A LOT earlier than you would expect. It’s a good thing to start lifting and braking to anticipate this. You don’t want to be that person, causing a multiple-car crash on the first turn, right?
Lap 1
The whole first lap will be a continuation of small accordion effects. The field will be very nervous as it stretches out to a single thin line. There will be some clutches or groups of drivers fighting for position, and inevitably, there will be a big crash at some point. Be prepared for this to happen and chances are it won’t happen to you. Still, make sure to slow down to maximise your chances of evading death. After all, a great first lap is the foundation for a great race.
Duelling
Once the tension has eased, you can try to find your pace during the race. This will also be when you either start gaining on the car in front of you or lose the lead to the vehicle behind you. It is the responsibility of the vehicle behind to make a clean(-ish) pass. Rubbing is racing (no pun intended), but crashing isn’t.
Only make a move if you fully believe you can make it stick rather than bumping someone for the sake of battling. This also means that you shouldn’t poke your nose into someone’s rear at an unrealistic place and then be surprised when your opponent blames you for crashing both of you. When you crash, you not only end your race but potentially the race of multiple drivers as well. Be respectful of each other. The result isn’t as important as you think.
Finishing the race is the most important thing, you will always have more fun and improve as a driver by finishing out the race.
Blue Flags
Contrary to Formula 1 regulations, backmarkers in GT racing don’t have to move out of the way under blue flags. They are allowed to, but they don’t have to. In GT racing, blue flags are meant as a heads-up that a faster driver is approaching and wants to pass. It is up to the faster driver to make this a clean pass. The backmarker, however, is not allowed to block the move of a quicker driver. On the relative MFD menu page, orange names are a lap ahead of you. Blue names are a lap down.
If you want to let a faster driver by, don’t suddenly brake. Get off the racing line first, then just lift. The best way to let people pass you is to go a bit deeper into a turn/hairpin by braking later, drifting wider on straights, or both. This minimises time lost on your end if you let someone pass!
Penalties
Understanding all the penalties associated with GT racing is the most crucial aspect of sim racing in which you need to be thorough. ACC has an automated penalty system for corner-cutting. This system measures how fast you go through a micro-sector after you’ve had four wheels over the white line and compares it to the fastest time you have set through that micro-sector.
If you’ve gained time, you get a warning. If you lift (and thus lose time), you won’t get a warning. This system needs time to calibrate (you need to put in fast, clean micro-sectors) at the start of a race, so be careful of warnings early on. Four warnings result in a Drive-Through penalty. Serve the drive-through within three laps or risk being disqualified. Watch out though; speeding in the pitlane causes you to get a 30-second Stop & Go penalty. When you serve it, make sure that “Serve Penalty” is checked on the MFD menu page for the pitstop.
Finishing
If you crashed, got a penalty or are otherwise at the back of the field, it might just be enticing to quit the race and join another server. Please refrain from doing that and use the remaining time to build your experience driving clean laps and just to have fun driving without any pressure. Someone in front might have a spin offering you a chance to battle with them.
Not only is it more fun for the entire lobby when everyone stays inside the server for the duration of the race (and tries to make it to the finish), but you also get bonus Trust points for making it there. This could offset the OBWP you may have earned earlier on, and makes sure that you can get into higher-rated servers later!There are some excellent software packages to track your race rivals’ telemetry in the same session as you in real-time with live timing, such as Pitwall for example. Use them to your advantage.
Go and Have Fun
Now that you know the ins and outs of sim racing and are ready to get started get onto ACC find your favourite car and track and get racing. Remember to be patient sim racing is hard by nature but this makes it so much more rewarding when everything comes together. A good tip for all new starters is to pick one car and stick to it you will learn its strengths and weaknesses and really get the most out of the car, don’t switch cars every race or you will pick up bad habits and end up having a bad time.
If you ever need any more tips or guides on anything within ACC be sure to go to check out the Coach Dave Academy Resources page where we upload weekly content on hardware, setups, cars and any new content to ACC. Additionally, if you prefer video content then check out the Coach Dave academy Youtube channel where you can find track guides and even sessions with our very own engineers.
Last but not least make sure to practice, practice, practice and have fun while doing so!
My teammate is faster than me again! We’ve got the same car, we’re normally neck and neck in other sims, and we both ooze so much esports professionalism that we barely raise a smile when someone says ‘skidmark’ in our team voice chat.
I’ve got the fancy wheel setup, the suede racing gloves and the ever-so-slightly too expensive karting boots to accompany my load cell pedals and 43-inch curved monitor, so why am I so slow?
Setup.
Like most sims, Assetto Corsa Competizione (ACC) gives the would-be GT3 driver the opportunity to tailor the setup of the car to suit their driving style, track layout or weather conditions. Altering setup values can result in variable positive and negative handling characteristics in your car simultaneously.
For example, lowering the rear wing level might make the car faster in a straight line, but will also make it trickier to control in high-speed bends. As a result, you often need to strike a balance to ensure optimal performance during a race.
So, setup is very important in ACC. It can be the difference between winning and losing; picture taking a last-lap victory as the person ahead burns his tyres up because he’s using a super-oversteery setup, while you saunter serenely by after developing a more conservative platform.
Below, I hope to offer a few simple tips to create your own setup from scratch, with the aim of knocking a whole second off your lap times (or maybe more!)
DONINGTON PARK VS BENTLEY
In this example, I’m using the Bentley Continental GT3 at Donington Park GP – which is part of the recent British GT DLC – with the default ‘Safe preset’ setup programmed into Assetto Corsa Competizione.
Before creating a setup, make sure the track conditions are consistent – there’s no point in creating a setup for track temperatures of 40 °C when the race you’re doing is set to be 10 °C. In this example, I’ve gone with ambient and track temperatures of 12 °C. Also, ensure you’re using the same fuel load for each run, and keep an eye on your on-screen tyre widget to see if your tyres are running too hot or too cold – this may require adjustment of the brake ducts to get more or less heat running through the tyre carcass.
One issue that many inexperienced sim drivers face is changing too many settings at once. It’s always best to change one setting at a time, give it a few laps running to properly evaluate the car’s behaviour, then decide if you need to change anything else.
The first thing to do is take the car out on track and gauge how it feels on the base setup. Knowing Donington Park well, it didn’t take long for me to get familiar with the circuit, and after eight laps I was ready to make a few changes to improve the car‘s handling.
TYRE PRESSURES
My first big piece of ACC setup advice is to make sure the tyre pressures are within the optimum range. Ideally, these should sit between 27.3-27.9 PSI when hot, and the best time to judge this is after a minimum of three-four laps of competitive driving. This allows the tyres and brakes to warm up to optimum levels so you can judge the pressures correctly.
As you can see, a best lap of 1:28.866 isn’t going to set the world alight or impress my Nomex-clad teammates, so what can I do to improve this? Well, looking at the hot tyre pressures I’ve got in the above screenshot, my tyres are massively under-pressured, so that’s an obvious place to start.
Success! 1:27.252 – that’s a time gain of 1.614s after one setup change! Proof that tyre pressures are perhaps the single most important setup tweak you can make and should be the starting point to all custom setups. We’ll have a deep-dive into tyre pressure specifically in another article coming soon.
In these early stages of setup development, it’s also a good idea to establish your Traction Control (TC), Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) and brake bias settings. For the Bentley, TC & ABS on level three works very well as a starting point, and being a front-engined car, setting the brake bias above 64% front/rear offers enough stability and stopping power in the heavy braking zones.
These settings can be fine-tuned to the driver’s preference later, but these figures are a solid starting point for the Bentley.
AERO
Now, what should be the next step in getting more lap time from the venerable old ‘Boatley’? Generally, the Bentley is a very stable car with lots of downforce in high-speed sections, so it feels well-suited to the sweeping curves of Donington Park. Therefore, we’ll look at the aero balance of the car.
I liked the way it felt in high-speed corners from the get-go, so I’ve decided to keep the ‘Front aero variation’ value the same at 5.9 per cent. I have also lowered the ride heights front and rear to maintain this number. Lowering the ride height lowers the car’s centre of gravity, increasing agility and reducing drag.
So, with the same 5.9 per cent value, the car’s handling in high-speed sections shouldn’t change too much, but will still benefit from lower ride heights. The potential downside to this is that you lower the ride height so much that the car bottoms out on bumpy sections of track or kerbs, making the tyres lose contact with the racetrack – which isn’t great for lap times!
Thankfully, Donington is very smooth, so in this case, the lower ride heights work well.
If you wanted to add a little bit more ‘turn’, or oversteer to the car, you can add more rear ride height, thereby increasing the ‘rake’ – effectively creating an upward slope on the car, rising from front to back. On the whole, a higher-rake setup equates to a car with better turn-in and oversteer, a setup philosophy made famous in recent times by Red Bull in F1.
So, if you feel like the car is a little lazy with turn-in, adding more rake can improve this massively. The important thing is not to go too extreme and have too much tyre-wrecking oversteer!
The aero changes were minor, providing small gains in lap time. The general feel of the car is very similar, with a little more wing added to aid downforce in the medium-to-high speed turns to help with traction, especially at corners such as McLeans and Coppice, where you need to both accelerate and turn at high speed.
Just over a tenth of a second has been gained from this change, and it has positively-affected the feel of the car in high-speed traction zones. Remember to save your setups when you make a change!
Suspension
Next up I’ll have a look at ‘mechanical grip’ settings.
The car feels okay, but it still steps out of line under power, so softening the wheel rates slightly should help this. I also feel like the car is a bit unwilling to turn mid-corner, so I’ve altered the anti-roll bar settings to provide better rotation around the Melbourne Hairpin and Goddards – the tight final corner.
There we are! Another couple of tenths shaved off my lap time, and the car has become way more driveable too.
STEP UP YOUR SETUPS
As we can see, a few simple setup tweaks have gained me almost two seconds of laptime in the space of thirty minutes practice.
ACC also gives you the ability to record telemetry that can be analysed in MoTeC i2 software, showing the likes of suspension histograms and brake/throttle traces. But, examining data in this kind of detail is reserved mainly for the professional esports teams operating at the top level.
I like to use the simple process and steps mentioned above as a mental checklist of things to run through for each car and track combination. If you’re just starting out in sim racing, or regard it as a fun hobby, then hopefully some of the tips above will help you gain some lap time and justify the thousands of pounds you’ve just spent on all that lovely sim equipment!
Добрый день. Вот вам 5 кратких советов от нашего автора, который поиграл в игру и хотел бы поделиться некоторыми знаниями с вами. Тут будет немного про настройки и управление.
Советы и прохождение Assetto Corsa Competizione — клавиатура, управление и настройки
1. Отключите опцию «Температура тормозов» — Brake Temperature
В меню настроек «Реализм» перед гонкой вы увидите опцию, чтобы определить, хотите ли вы имитировать температуру тормоза. Когда вы только начинаете, вам лучше отключить эту опцию, включив ее снова только тогда, когда вам больше по душе базовое вождение.
Выключение означает, что ваши тормоза всегда будут работать на полную мощность, в отличие от необходимости беспокоиться о том, чтобы их прогреть.
Что касается изучения моделей управления, расположения гусениц, коэффициентов сцепления шин и многого другого, вам будет достаточно попробовать их всех.
Принятие отдельных элементов один за другим может показаться медленным шагом вперед, но это позволит вам полностью понять, как эти настройки меняют время круга. Чем больше вы понимаете, что происходит, тем быстрее вы в конечном итоге можете идти к победе.
2. Снаружи, внутри, снаружи
Попадание в гоночную трассу является обязательным условием, если вы хотите увидеть хорошее время на круге. Способ сделать это состоит в том, чтобы оставаться гладким по углам, в отличие от того, чтобы гонять по прямым, ломаться в последнюю секунду и толкать машину в поворот с заносом. В симуляторе, подобном Assetto Corsa Competizione, который имитирует сцепление шин с подвеской, подвеску и, что более важно, гораздо более реалистичен, чем другие гонки, невозможно описать то, насколько важно избегать резких движений колеса.
Золотое правило следовать правильной линии через большинство поворотов — подходить к внешнему краю дорожки, подтягиваться внутрь, когда вы двигаетесь через вершину поворота, а затем осторожно возвращаться к выходу на трассу.
Практикуйте этот подход с каждой машиной, на которой вы хотите ездить, и на каждой гоночной трассе, составляющей примерно 50 процентов от вашей максимальной скорости. Более медленные скорости помогут вам сохранять плавность и запоминать отдельные особенности каждого угла, прежде чем увеличивать ставку, добавляя противников в микс.
3. Заднее крыло
В настройках вашего автомобиля вы увидите раздел для настройки аэродинамики с помощью настроек высоты дорожного просвета и заднего крыла. Заднее крыло можно установить в диапазоне от 0 до 20, причем большее число соответствует увеличению прижимной силы на задней части автомобиля.
Установка этого значения повышает устойчивость автомобиля на высоких скоростях, помогая вам управлять наиболее агрессивными и мощными транспортными средствами Competizione, и мы рекомендуем делать именно это на практике.
Выгода в том, что ваша машина страдает от недостаточной поворачиваемости на этих высоких скоростях, и это может помешать вашей работе через быстрые повороты. На данный момент, тем не менее, лучше контролировать свою машину и оставаться на трассе, чтобы научиться этому — так что тормозите рано для тех быстрых поворотов и берите их медленнее, чем в других играх, пока не будете готовы уменьшить давление на заднее крыло.
4. Медленно уменьшите свою зависимость от контроля тяги
Оставаясь с настройками автомобиля, меню «Электроника» вашей системы тюнинга автомобиля спросит вас, в какой степени вы хотите использовать антипробуксовочную систему (TC). По сути, TC предназначен для ограничения вращения колеса и особенно полезен для того, чтобы не потерять сцепление — и, следовательно, время — при ускорении через выходы из поворотов. В самых крайних случаях это может привести к тому, что вы полностью раскрутите вашу машину.
К сожалению, TC делает это, ограничивая мощность, идущую на колеса, и чрезмерное использование ее может сократить время прохождения круга. Это нельзя недооценивать — ТС может значительно сократить время!
Вы не хотите начинать с полностью отключенного TC, поскольку это значительно усиливает кривую сложности и может деморализовать. Вместо этого лучше начать с настройки TC, которая вам удобна, и поставить перед собой цель уменьшить ее на один градус каждые несколько часов или дней.
Как только вы будете готовы полностью его отключить, вы получите полные рабочие знания о TC и о том, как важно правильно его настроить в зависимости от ваших навыков вождения.
5. Ведите учет вашего прогресса
Да, мы хотим, чтобы вы вели дневник. Маркировка времени прохождения круга — это отличный способ быть мотивированным и быть в курсе того, как вы выступаете по-разному, в зависимости от автомобиля, на котором вы едете. Вполне вероятно, что ваш естественный стиль вождения будет лучше подходить к определенным типам автомобилей по сравнению с другими, и важно иметь объективную запись об этом, если вы серьезно относитесь к участию в игре, подобной Competizione.
Еще лучше, если вы можете сделать несколько заметок относительно настроек, которые вы использовали для каждого круга. Таким образом, вы можете увидеть, как изменение баланса задних крыльев или снижение TC влияет на ваши характеристики.
Может случиться так, что время вашего круга показывает заметный спад, например, при переходе от одной настройки TC к другой, и вы еще не готовы сделать эту настройку.
Last updated: February 26th, 2023
Featuring in my list of the top 5 best simulators, Assetto Corsa Competizione (ACC) is undoubtedly one of the most excellent racing titles currently available and is possibly one of, if not the best game to start with when first entering the sim racing domain.
This is due to two crucial factors: Firstly, ACC focuses entirely on GT4 and GT3 championships, which are, in my opinion, two of the best car classes to begin your sim racing career, as you can learn the necessary skills involved in motorsports without too much difficulty. GT4 cars have between 350-450 horsepower (hp), making them quite drivable and easy to control, while GT3 are slightly more powerful with 500-600 hp.
Secondly, ACC evaluates your skills like car control, track knowledge and pace which helps you see how you’re progressing. The AI is highly customisable in terms of aggression and speed; plus, you can disable the car damage for a safe learning environment.
The way I see it, ACC is currently the game with the best ratio between graphics and realism. That is to say, realism in terms of physics. Additionally, its community is continuing to grow well, and there’s plenty of opportunities to join in online multiplayer races.
Assetto Corsa Competizione: Beginner’s setup guide contents
- Get Started
- Display
- Pedal and FFB setup
- Track Selection
- Realism
- Weather
- Assists
- Car Setup
- HUD
With all this in mind, I decided it would be helpful for anyone interested in this game to provide a complete, in-depth guide on how to get started with ACC and allow new players to gain familiarity with the basics of the game and how to set things up for your first few laps around a track.
This guide to Assetto Corsa Competizione will include everything you need to know about in-game settings and how to tweak your force feedback (FFB) to provide a better sensation of realism in your gameplay. Just a quick note before we get started; ACC is available to play on PC, PS4, and Xbox One, but I’ll only be focusing on the PC version of the game for this post.
Essential Sim Racing Kit
Before we get into the ACC guide, there are a few housekeeping items I’d like to mention. I would highly recommend anyone, whether using ACC as your simulator or indeed any other game, to first and foremost invest in a wheel/wheelbase and a set of pedals.
These two pieces of kit are essential to enjoying sim racing and help to immerse you into the gameplay.
Of course, there are thousands of hardware options from many manufacturers, and I don’t want to suggest any particular brands over others. I’ve already covered a lot of kit in my buyers’ guides, so to give you a starting point, you can check out my guides on Logitech, Thrustmaster, SimuCUBE, and Heusinkveld to get a better picture of the sim racing products currently available.
Remember that sim racing is all about creating a rig that’s as true-to-life as you can manage, so I recommend investing for the future and buying the best products you can afford to get the most fun out of your simulator. Based on my experience, you will also need a proper racing seat that is fixed into place so that it won’t move around when you press the pedals and probably a frame (rig) that allows you to attach all your sim racing products. Don’t worry if you can’t afford all of this at once. You can always start with a wheel and some pedals and build up from there.
So, with those items out of the way, let’s open up the game and learn how to get started with Assetto Corsa Competizione.
Starting the game and creating a Driver Profile
When we open the game, we land in the main menu, so the first thing you want to do here is set up your profile which means you need to click on DRIVER.
Put in your name and abbreviation, and if you wish, you can customise your driver’s helmet and racing suit with different colours.
You will use this profile for tracking your in-game rating and your stats, so it’s good practice to get all this set up first. Once this is complete, we can move on and make sure your driving hardware is set up correctly.
Display Settings
First, head back into the main menu and go to OPTIONS.
You will want to set up the graphic video settings according to what your hardware can handle. ACC has exceptional graphics, but that comes at the cost of intensive processing and memory usage. So, if you are not using an ultimate gaming PC, you should tone down the graphics slightly.
Once you’re in the OPTIONS menu, select VIDEO and adjust the settings to match your PC’s abilities.
You don’t need to run the game on epic settings for it to look great; by using high or medium settings, the game will still look outstanding. Whatever mode you select, if you want to have a smooth experience select the appropriate settings for your hardware.
For more technical detail, check out this forum guide to graphics settings and performance in ACC.
Wheel, Pedal and Force Feedback Settings
The next thing we will set up is the CONTROLS, which you’ll also find in the OPTIONS menu. This is where you will make sure that everything is operating correctly regarding your wheel, pedals, and any other peripherals, should you have any.
You will want to test everything and make sure it’s all working, so push the throttle, push the brake, push the clutch, shift up and down, etc. Basically, you want to check that the game is picking up a signal from each of your devices. If all your hardware drivers are up to date and everything is recognised, then you’re all set.
After that, you’re going to move over to the FORCE FEEDBACK settings. Getting this right is crucial as the wheel is your primary and, in many cases, your only connection to the car and the game. Unless you’re using a racing seat with motion actuators or bass shakers, you won’t have any other way to feel what the car is doing other than what is coming through the wheel. So, we want to have this set up to allow us to react to what the car is doing.
While the perfect FFB settings are certainly up for debate, I would recommend anyone new to ACC to use these recommended settings as laid out by Aristotelis Vasilakos, a developer for Kunos Simulazioni, the producers of ACC.
In this example, the FFB has been set up for use with a Logitech G29 Driving Force Wheel. However, please refer to Aristotelis’ instructions below and adjust the setting according to the hardware you are using.
FFB Settings for Assetto Corsa Competizione
GAIN: as per user taste, on commercial wheels 70-100%, on high-end or DD wheels 15-60%, but it also depends on your wheel driver gain settings. Some users also prefer 100% in-game at all times and adjust FBB strength in their wheel driver settings instead.
MINIMUM FORCE: only recommended for low-mid-range wheels, but only use up to 15-20%, again taste plays a role here.
DYNAMIC DAMPING: recommended at least 50%. For DD wheels, I recommend 100%. This is the equivalent of the Gyroscopic (gyro) setting in the original Assetto Corsa sim.
ROAD EFFECTS: this amplifies road surface signals, recommended to be left at 0% or low values.
FREQUENCY: mid to high-range wheels should have it set to 333Hz. Certain low-end wheels need it to be reduced.
STEER LOCK: whatever your wheel driver rotation is set to. This is the only way to keep linearity. Even if the in-game car has a lower rotation, the game will keep it 1:1 to your wheel.
STEER LINEARITY: you want to keep this at 1.00.
BRAKE GAMMA: 1.00 for load cell or high-end pedals, higher values (1.5-2.0+) for low-end pedals without load cell (same principle as in other sims).
I suggest that you try these settings as a base, and from there, you can make fine adjustments as you become more accustomed to the game. You can then save these settings as a preset so that it never gets lost.
Practice and Track Selection
Depending on which version of the game you bought and whether you purchased DLC packages, there will be some different SINGLE PLAYER mode options. However, it doesn’t matter what year or challenge you decide to choose; just be sure that you select PRACTICE in the game mode, and I recommend setting the time to midday for the best lighting.
Have a look through the different tracks and choose one that you like. A personal favourite of mine is Zolder, which is short but menacing. However, I would recommend that beginners start with something a bit less technical, meaning fewer tricky corners.
A great example would be something like Monza.
Then most importantly, the car. There are so many amazing cars in this game, and everyone has a preference, so there is really no car I could suggest over another. Just pick the one you like or whatever stands out to you. If you ever thought to yourself, “I wish I could drive that car”, then now is your chance.
Each car in this game is incredibly well balanced, but they do drive differently. One car might feel more natural to you than others, but on your first attempt, you should simply pick a car that you like, and if you start to notice after a few laps or after a few hours of racing that it doesn’t feel suitable for you, then you can select something different next time.
would even go as far as to say that you should pick the car you like first and then try every other car in the game just to test them all and see how they feel. You will immediately notice after a few turns or a few laps if a car is not for you. I guarantee it.
For our first race, we don’t need to touch anything in the car customisation; we will get into that in my next article on Car Setups. Right now, we basically just want to drive.
Realism
As a rookie, you will want to make things as smooth as possible so that you can focus on driving and getting to know the car.
I recommend setting the damage to zero and then set everything else as above.
Weather Conditions
This game has fantastic WEATHER CONDITIONS, but for your first few runs out on the track, you will want to keep it clear and with no dynamic weather so that you don’t run into any trouble.
Assists
There’s one last thing before we head out onto the track, and that’s the ASSISTS.
As a beginner, you want to make sure that you have the gearbox set on manual as this allows you to learn about shifting. However, for now, you will want to set everything else on automatic and keep the stability control off so that the game doesn’t mess with your driving.
As for the ideal racing line, if you have never raced on a track or don’t know how it feels, or if you want to learn a track from scratch, I recommend setting the IDEAL LINE as visible. When the line is visible, the game indicates which racing line you should stick to. It doesn’t mean to say that this is always the quickest line, but just like everything else we’ve discussed so far, it’s a good baseline to begin with when you’re starting out.
In your first few hours with the game, I would suggest turning it on anyway, even if you think you’re not a beginner, especially if you’re trying a track you’ve never driven on before. If it’s too irritating, you can always turn it off.
Now we’ve got everything set up, and we’re ready to get out there, so you can select START SESSION.
Remember, the most important rule is to have fun. The second most important rule is not to compare yourself to other drivers. There’re so many drivers out there that are faster than you that in the beginning, it’s pointless even to consider this as an issue. In fact, there’s pretty much always someone faster than you even when you become a pro.
Car Setup – Safe Mode
Before you head out onto the track, click on SETUP.
As I mentioned above, we are not interested in customising the setup at this point in time, so the only thing you need to do is click on the SAFE PRESET SETUP and immediately go back.
Essentially, this is a safe mode that will set the car up in a way that makes it easy for you to drive during your first laps without worrying too much about losing the rear and spinning out of control. It’ll give you smooth handling and overall make the car as easy to control as possible.
Once that’s done, click DRIVE, and you will land in the car, which will be sitting in the pit lane.
HUD Explained
At this point, you will notice that apart from what you can see out of the front window, many other pieces of information also appear on the screen. This is known as the head-up display or HUD.
What you see on the top in the middle is what mode you’re on and what the time is, and in the top left corner is your lap time. You will see four green icons that represent your tyres in the bottom right corner, and these will change colour depending on their temperature. You will also notice it displays your tyres psi; this will become more important later when we look at more advanced setups. You will also see four blue icons which indicate your brake discs in the front and rear. Again, these will change colour depending on temperature. Once you start driving and get some temperature in the tyres and the brake discs, they will become a healthy green. If you are running too hot, they will become yellow or red.
Next to this, you have the fuel and lap indicators, showing the amount of fuel you still have, plus you have the fuel per lap that you consume. Next to that is, of course, the RPMs, and you will see the throttle response when you push the throttle, and you will see the brake response when you push the brakes. The two large numbers represent your speed and what gear you are in. Finally, you also have indicators for the traction control, ABS, and brake balance which we don’t need to worry about for now.
In the top right corner, you will see a collection of different numbers representing your driver ratings. ACC has ratings for various things like safety, car control, track medals, etc., which are important for the multiplayer mode. This makes sure the game can sort drivers based on their skill and match them to opponents at a similar level.
One of the first things you want to do in ACC is improving your ratings and collect as many track medals as possible, allowing you to drive in multiplayer mode.
That about wraps things up in terms of explaining and setting everything up for our first lap. All that’s left to do is put the car in first gear, pull out of the pit lane, and head onto the track.