Том форд руководство

Владение Estée Lauder Cos. брендом Tom Ford начинается с найма высокопоставленных сотрудников, отмечает WWD. Компания назначила Гийома Джезеля президентом и главным исполнительным директором бренда, а Питер Хокингс занял должность креативного директора.

Том Форд и Доменико Де Соле продолжат работу в качестве консультантов по бренду до конца года.

О новых назначениях в руководстве Форд сказал: «Гийом — исключительный лидер, обладающий не только сильным деловым пониманием красоты, но и прекрасным пониманием моды».

Напомним, Том Форд поделился последней кампанией коллекции основанного им бренда, разработанной лично дизайнером. Снял мини-фильм Стивен Кляйн.

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В день рождения дизайнера (Тому Форду исполнилось 60!) вспоминаем все, из-за чего его считают гениальным

«Не понимаю людей, у которых нет амбиций стать лучшими», — говорит Том Форд и, кажется, делает все для того, чтобы быть номером один везде и всюду. У его кровати всегда лежит блокнот и ручка на случай, если гениальные идеи посетят в ночи. Он не скрывает того, что работает по 18 часов в день и боится, что после него «останется лишь гора платьев в музее». Трудолюбию и успеху господина Форда (а в индустрии его называют именно так) можно позавидовать. Или же взять на заметку то, на что он делает ставку, чтобы сорвать джекпот.

Том Форд и Эми Адамс фото № 1

Том Форд и Эми Адамс

Он не боится рисковать 

Том Форд начал свою карьеру в модном Доме Gucci в худший год компании за всю его историю — из-за творческих размолвок и семейных неурядиц бренд был на грани банкротства. Да и в Тома никто не верил: по образованию архитектор, без особых звездных контрактов в индустрии моды, еще и американец в итальянском Доме. «Да на что он способен?» — недоумевали критики. На многое — доказал Форд. За те 10 лет, что он занимал должность креативного директора Gucci, продажи компании выросли с $230 млн до $4 млрд, а вещи бренда превратились в настоящие объекты культа. Во многом совершить такой переворот Форду удалось благодаря его бескомпромиссному характеру, интуиции и ставке на то, что прежде никто никогда не делал. «Sex sells» стал лозунгом Gucci в те времена, и акцент на сексуальные аутфиты сработал, совершив настоящую революцию не только в бренде, но и в индустрии в принципе. Кажется, тогда модный мир содрогнулся, а весь свет Голливуда только и грезил о новом Gucci.

Дженнифер Лопес на благотворительном ужине Тома Форда и Gucci, 1997 год фото № 2

Дженнифер Лопес на благотворительном ужине Тома Форда и Gucci, 1997 год
Том Форд и Мадонна фото № 3
Том Форд и Мадонна

Он настоящий перфекционист

О перфекционизме Тома Форда в индустрии ходят легенды. Он всегда хочет контролировать все и вся вплоть до мельчайших деталей. Так, говорят, на одном из светских мероприятий он попросил утвердить с ним все кандидатуры охранников и даже убедил организаторов пересмотреть дизайн перечниц и солонок. C одеждой история та же, но здесь Форд еще более бескомпромиссен: у него все должно быть идеально. Как бы там ни было, но «стремление к совершенству сослужило мне хорошую службу», говорит Форд.

Gucci осень-зима 2003/2004 фото № 4

Gucci осень-зима 2003/2004
Tom Ford весна-лето 2020 фото № 5
Tom Ford весна-лето 2020

Том Форд фото № 6

Том Форд

Он не боится пробовать что-то новое

В 2008 году Том Форд решает попробовать себя в роли режиссера и снимает свой первый фильм. Почему он решил выбрать киноиндустрию? Сам Том объяснил это так: «Я боюсь, что годы пролетят со свистом и после меня останется лишь гора платьев в музее. Кино — вот, что вечно». Так, над дебютным фильмом Форд работал больше двух лет. «Я бы сказал, что съемки моего первого фильма  «Одинокий мужчина» стали для меня своего рода очищением. На экране был показан мой кризис среднего возраста, а сняв этот фильм, я смог двигаться дальше, перейти в следующую фазу своей жизни», — признался в одном интервью Форд. Результат в очередной раз доказал безграничный талант дизайнера. Картина «Одинокий мужчина» тут же получила номинацию на  «Оскар» и три «Золотых глобуса».

Том Форд фото № 7

Том Форд

Он всегда выглядит безупречно

Tom Ford — сегодня уже имя нарицательное. Это синоним элегантности и безупречного вкуса. Все знают: если вам нужен идеальный мужской костюм (и самое соблазнительное платье) — это к Тому Форду. Сам дизайнер также всегда выглядит безупречно: не зря же его в индустрии называют не иначе как «господин Форд». Поэтому неудивительно, что всего через два года после запуска бренда Tom Ford киногерой Джеймса Бонда сменил классические костюмы Brioni на аутфиты Тома Форда — агент 007 всегда выбирает лучшее.

Том Форд в финале показа фото № 8

Том Форд в финале показа

Он часто провоцирует

Создавая свой бренд в 2005 году, Том Форд сразу определил, что это будет марка «для современных, динамичных, много путешествующих и неплохо зарабатывающих». Что ж, он забыл добавить «и для тех, кто не боится провоцировать и удивлять». Ведь именно на это он всегда делал ставку еще со времен работы в Gucci. Любая рекламная кампания Tom Ford или показ марки — это всегда что-то дерзкое и очень красивое. То, что иногда вызывает скандал, иногда — восторг, но неизменно обсуждается всеми еще очень долго. 

Звезды повторяют образы Дженнифер Лопес из нулевых. Вот доказательства и руководство к действию, как сделать так же Читать

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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Tom Ford SA

Tom Ford logo
Tom Ford flagship store in Miami Design District

Flagship store in Miami Design District

Trade name

 Tom Ford
Type Private company
Industry Fashion
Founded 2005; 18 years ago
Founder Tom Ford
Headquarters

New York City

Key people
  • Peter Hawkings (Creative Director)
  • Guillaume Jesel
  • (CEO and president)[1]
Products
  • Ready-to-wear
  • leather accessories
  • shoes
  • cosmetics
  • fragrances
Revenue Increase $654 million (2021)[2]
Owner Estée Lauder
Website tomford.com

Tom Ford SA (stylized as TOM FORD) is a luxury fashion house founded by designer Tom Ford in 2005. Its product line features ready-to-wear and made-to-measure offerings, as well as footwear, accessories, and handbags.[3] Tom Ford licensed its name and branding to Estée Lauder for Tom Ford Beauty, offering cosmetics and fragrance,[4] and to Marcolin Group for eyewear.[5]

In November 2022 the Tom Ford brand was purchased by Estée Lauder for $2.8 billion.[6] The luxury group previously owned Tom Ford Beauty and Tom Ford Parfums since 2006. Under Estée Lauder, mens and womens ready-to-wear is licensed to Zegna, who previously held the license for menswear.[7]

History[edit]

Tom Ford, the brand’s founder and former creative director

Tom Ford departed his position as creative director at Gucci in 2004[8] and founded his own eponymous label in April 2005.[9] The Tom Ford retail brand concept, described as the first true luxury brand of the 21st century, began in 2004 as a venture between Ford and his business partner Domenico de Sole with the launch of a cosmetics line.[10] In the same year, Ford announced his partnership with Marcolin Group to produce and distribute optical frames and sunglasses. In 2005, he launched the Tom Ford Estée Lauder Collection of cosmetics.[11][12]

tomford.com was launched in October 2006, initially only offering descriptions of the brand’s products and later on hosting an online store.[13]

In April 2007, the first directly owned Tom Ford flagship boutique opened at 845 Madison Avenue in New York City.

In September 2010, Ford debuted his label’s women’s ready-to-wear collection at his Madison Avenue store. The event featured celebrity models such as Beyoncé, Julianne Moore, Lauren Hutton, Daphne Guinness, and Rita Wilson.

In November 2015, the house opened its Miami flagship boutique in that city’s Design District.[14] In November 2017, it opened its first beauty store in London.[15]

As of 2017, Tom Ford Beauty, owned by Estée Lauder, estimated $1 billion in sales.[15]

As of 2020, Tom Ford was the major shareholder of Tom Ford International, holding 63.75% of the shares.[10]

Since its inception, the label has been criticized for using naked women in various advertising campaigns. Various journalists asserted that the ads were vulgar, sexist, or objectified women. One ad featured a nude woman holding a bottle of perfume between her legs. Another featured a naked woman ironing a man’s pants while he read a newspaper. A separate ad was banned in Italy.[16][17][18][19]

Responding to criticism that he objectified women, Ford stated he is an «equal opportunity objectifier» and is «just as happy to objectify men». He argued, «you can’t show male nudity in our culture in the way you can show female nudity» and pointed out that he did a male nude ad while at Yves Saint Laurent which was pulled from circulation.[20][21]

In 2014, the brand released a product called the «Penis Pendant Necklace». The product caused some controversy, with Christians calling it offensive due to the pendant being shaped similar to a Christian cross or crucifix.[22][23] Ford replied that «it was not meant to be a cross, it was a phallus» and «people read into things what they want to».[21]

The creation of the brand is detailed in the 2021 monograph Tom Ford 002, co-authored by Ford and fashion journalist Bridget Foley. The book is published by Rizzoli International Publications.

In November 2022 the Tom Ford brand was purchased by Estée Lauder for $2.8 billion.[6] On April 28, 2023, designer Peter Hawkings succeeded Ford as the brand’s creative director.[1]

Tom Ford Beauty[edit]

Black Orchid (2006)[edit]

Black Orchid was the first fragrance sold under the Tom Ford Beauty banner.[24] During his incumbency as Creative Director of Yves Saint Laurent, Ford had developed a rare black orchid as the brand’s new in-house flower.[25] Extract from the flower was used to produce a perfume, body cream and bath soap as part of YSL’s Nu line.[26][27][28] Previous to launching Black Orchid, Ford had worked with Estée Lauder, signing a deal in April 2005 and releasing Youth Dew Amber Nude, the following fall, and Azure, in spring 2006.[29]

On 27 February 2006, having already started his brand, Black Orchid, the name for Ford’s new fragrance with Estée Lauder Companies was made public.[30] Described as «a women’s fragrance…full of surprises» by Women’s Wear Daily, its launch was planned for the following November, to be «beyond the parameters of a usual fragrance launch.»[31] Black Orchid by Tom Ford Beauty, as officially named, and manufactured by Esteé Lauder Companies, was finally released on 15 November.[32] On 24 July, Ford held one-on-one meetings with editors from elite fashion publications where he presented the fragrance, which was described as «the anchor of what will become the Ford flotilla of fragrance and cosmetics initiatives.»[33]

Julia Restoin Roitfeld, daughter of then-Vogue Paris editor-in chief Carine Roitfeld, was chosen in July 2006 as brand ambassador for the fragrance previous to its release.[34][35] Ford had described the younger Roitfeld as «exactly what beauty is to me.»[36] Later in the month it was announced that Black Orchid would be initially sold in a few upscale specialty stores and would increase to a maximum of fewer than 300 by the following spring.[37] for the same time a launch of 12 unisex scents to be sold by perfumery store-in-stores inside the upcoming retail stores was also planned.[29][38]

Black Orchid had a reported $20 million global advertising campaign, with 15 million scented impressions produced, with a planned $40 million revenue in its first year,[29] selling between $90[39][40] and $135 for a bottle of eau de parfum,[40][41] and $600 for the perfume.[42] Then president and CEO of Estée Lauder, William P. Lauder, described the perfume as «the cornerstone of Mr. Ford’s vision to bring more luxury into the world of fragrance.»[43] It was developed by having a grower create the darkest flower possible and then adding black truffle, lotus wood, bergamot and vanilla.[44] Even though a woman’s perfume, Ford allegedly told Estée Lauder executives that he wished the perfume smelled like «a man’s crotch.»[45] Ford tracked down one of four existing black orchids through a Swiss orchid expert and a Santa Barbara grower.[46] While it has been reported that the specific orchid that was used was the recherché dark orchid,[47] Ford himself has stated that he holds the patent for the eponymous Tom Ford orchid, which was developed in Florida and he has described as «[m]aybe not completely black, but a deep, dark chocolate.»[48]

Black Orchid was launched on 2 November 2006 at the Saks Fifth Avenue flagship store,[49] where Ford arrived to recommend strategies to the sales associates. Saks, as well as Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew stores, limited to a total of 50, started selling the fragrance on Sunday, 5 November.[39] The night of the 2 November, an after-launch party occurred at Top of the Rock, with celebrities such as Damon Dash, Margherita Missoni, Stavros Niarchos, Zac Posen, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Carine Roitfeld, Rachel Roy, Donatella Versace, Olivia Wilde and Rachel Zoe in attendance.[46][50][51] For the event, black curtains were installed at the venue and doused with the perfume.[47]

Upon release, Harper’s Bazaar described it as possessing a «sensual and woody floral scent.»[52][41] As part of Burberry’s 150th anniversary, the store sold Black Orchid Eau de Parfum in limited-edition black crystal Lalique bottles for £345.[53] The black, fluted glass bottle and cap and engraved gold plate label were described as reminiscent of black bottles such as thouse used for Narcisse Noir by Parfums Caron, Soir by Perugia, Dans La Nuit by House of Worth.[54] The perfume bottle was photographed by Irving Penn,[46] while the December 2006 British Vogue issue contained a five-page gatefold depicting the fragrance.[55] For her part, Restoin Roitfeld was photographed «in an old-style Hollywood glamour shot, all red lipstick, dreamy hair and bedroom eyes.»[47]

Rose Prick (2020)[edit]

Inspired by Ford’s private rose garden, Rose Prick, was made from wild roses such as Rose de Mai, Turkish and Bulgarian roses, as well as other elements such as chypre, Indonesian patchouli, and vanilla and Tonka bean.[56] The perfume trademark was filed for registration at the United States Patent and Trademark Office on 30 May 2019, and first used commercially when the fragrance was released on 29 February 2020.[57] Fabrizio Freda, Estée Lauder CEO, described it as «[combining] all rose floral with a little spicy tender.»[58] The fragrance, which has hints of «the rare Bulgarian rose, rose de mai, Sichuan pepper, turmeric, patchouli and tonka,»[59] was released in February 2020,[60] at US$335[61] (AU $480,[59] £218,[62] €245,[56] CAN $405)[63] for the 50 mL eau de parfum,[59] while the 10 mL bottle sold for €64[64] and the 100 mL bottle for £325.[65] The perfume is stored «in a matte, opaque, pink [flacon] bottle [with] a matte black metal stamp,» which has been described as «[having] the elegant, architectural look of a chessboard.»[66] Rose Prick is also the name of a tie-in lip colour set, which was described by the South China Morning Post as «wears effortlessly from day into night,»[67] as well as an eponymous $132[68] (£98)[69] candle, described as having a «spicy floral scent.»[68]

When released at Holt Renfrew in Canada, Rose Prick sold out in two days time.[63] The Daily Telegraph recommended it to individuals who usually do not have a preference towards florals,[70] and called it «a lingering evening fragrance.»[65] While Women’s Wear Daily called it one of 2020’s top ten best fragrances.[61] On the other hand, The Globe and Mail critiqued that its name had «more of an impression than the juice…what remains is a faint patchouli incense.»[63]

Other fragrances[edit]

In 2007, the Private Blend collection of fragrances were introduced by Tom Ford Beauty that featured more experimental and niche-quality fragrances at a higher price point. Tom Ford has described Private Blend as his «own personal scent laboratory».[71] As of 2021, the Private Blend collection contains twenty three fragrances. The Eau de Parfum Spray, Lost Cherry, won the allure 2021 Best of Beauty Award.

At his Spring/Summer 2018 collection runway show, held in September 2017 as part of New York Fashion Week, Tom Ford garnered media attention for unveiling a new Private Blend fragrance titled «Fucking Fabulous».[72] Tom Ford faced reluctance from Estée Lauder Companies in naming the fragrance, with Ford himself saying that «First of all, they didn’t even want to launch it» and that he had to insist on the name because «I knew it would be a hit with that name».[73]

Controversy[edit]

During the 2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine, Tom Ford refused to join the international community and withdraw from the Russian market. Research from Yale University published on August 10, 2022 identifying how companies were reacting to Russia’s invasion identified Tom Ford in the worst category of «Digging in», meaning Defying Demands for Exit: companies defying demands for exit/reduction of activities.[74]

References[edit]

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External links[edit]

  • Official website
Источник

Книга о нишевом парфюмерном доме Tom Ford, его истории и ароматах входит в серию книг автора о селективной парфюмерии. На ее страницах вы найдете описание 76-ти легендарных ароматов Tom Ford. Узнаете, кто создает парфюмы и чем они вдохновлены, полные пирамиды, разложенные на ноты.

Эмоции, впечатления и фото автора любовно поданы в тексте книги.

Эта увлекательная книга для ценителей парфюмерного мастерства, поможет вам в выборе своего парфюма.

Чувствуйте красоту жизни, вдыхая любимый аромат!

Источник

Известный дизайнер Том Форд покинул должность директора собственного одноименного бренда и модного дома.

О собственном уходе Том Форд сообщил ярко и элегантно – в духе его творений. Он выпустил несколько видеороликов с последней, по его словам, модной коллекцией. В видео поучаствовали топ-модели, одетые в архивные вещи из коллекций дизайнера.

Новость о смене директора поразила поклонников, однако была вполне ожидаемой. Ранее состоялась продажа бренда Tom Ford компании Estee Lauder практически за 3 миллиарда долларов.

Новый владелец уже объявил кандидата на освободившуюся должность. А вот чем займется сам Том Форд – пока неизвестно.

Источник

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