Ямаха вираго 535 мануал

Материал из BikesWiki — энциклопедия японских мотоциклов

Перейти к: навигация, поиск

Yamaha Virago 400

Ниже представлены прямые ссылки на скачку сервисной документации.

Для Yamaha XV400/XV535 Virago

  • Каталог запчастей (микрофиши) для Yamaha XV535 Virago
  • Руководство пользователя (Owners Manual) для Yamaha XV535 Virago
  • Сервисный мануал (Service Manual) на Yamaha XV535 Virago — на русском, часть глав
  • Руководство по ремонту и обслуживанию (Clymer: Service, Repair, Maintenance) Yamaha XV535-1100 Virago

Обзор модели

  • Yamaha XV400 Virago
  • Yamaha XV535 Virago

Источник — «https://bikeswiki.ru/index.php?title=Yamaha_XV400_Virago:_мануалы&oldid=10986»

Категория:

  • Сервисная документация
  • Contents

  • Table of Contents

  • Troubleshooting

  • Bookmarks

Related Manuals for Yamaha Virago XV535

Summary of Contents for Yamaha Virago XV535

  • Page 1
    OWNER’S MANUAL XV535 3BT-28199-E7…
  • Page 3
    EAU03338 Welcome to the Yamaha world of motorcycling! As the owner of an XV535, you are benefiting from Yamaha’s vast experience and newest technology regarding the design and manufacture of high-quality products, which have earned Yamaha a reputation for dependability.
  • Page 4
    This manual should be considered a permanent part of this motorcycle and should remain with it even if the motorcycle is subsequently sold. Yamaha continually seeks advancements in product design and quality. Therefore, while this manual contains the most current product information available at the time of printing, there may be minor discrepancies between your motorcycle and this manual.
  • Page 5: Important Manual Information

    IMPORTANT MANUAL INFORMATION EW000002 WARNING PLEASE READ THIS MANUAL CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY BEFORE OPERATING THIS MOTORCYCLE.

  • Page 6
    IMPORTANT MANUAL INFORMATION EAU03337 XV535 OWNER’S MANUAL © 2000 by Yamaha Motor Co., Ltd. 1st Edition, July 2000 All rights reserved. Any reprinting or unauthorized use without the written permission of Yamaha Motor Co., Ltd. is expressly prohibited. Printed in Japan.
  • Page 7: Table Of Contents

    EAU00009 TABLE OF CONTENTS 1 GIVE SAFETY THE RIGHT OF WAY 2 DESCRIPTION 3 INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS 4 PRE-OPERATION CHECKS 5 OPERATION AND IMPORTANT RIDING POINTS 6 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR 7 MOTORCYCLE CARE AND STORAGE 8 SPECIFICATIONS 9 CONSUMER INFORMATION INDEX…

  • Page 9: Give Safety The Right Of Way

    GIVE SAFETY THE RIGHT OF WAY GIVE SAFETY THE RIGHT OF WAY……….1-1…

  • Page 10
    G IVE SAFETY THE RIGHT OF WAY EAU00021 Motorcycles are fascinating vehicles, which can give you an unsurpassed feeling of power and freedom. However, they also impose certain limits, which you must accept; even the best motorcycle does not ignore the laws of physics. Regular care and maintenance are essential for preserving value and operating condition of your motorcycle.
  • Page 11: Description

    DESCRIPTION Left view ………………… 2-1 Right view………………. 2-2 Controls and instruments …………..2-3…

  • Page 12
    D ESCRIPTION EAU00026 Left view 1. Headlight (page 6-31) 7. Shock absorber spring 2. Air filter element (page 6-11) preload adjusting ring (page 3-9) 3. Rider seat (page 3-8) 8. Main switch (page 3-1) 4. Owner’s tool kit (page 6-1) 9.
  • Page 13
    DESCRIPTION Right view 11. Rear turn signal light (page 6-33) 14. Front turn signal light (page 6-33) 12. Fuel sub-tank 15. Brake pedal (page 3-4) 13. Fuel tank (page 3-5) 16. Battery (page 6-29)
  • Page 14
    DESCRIPTION Controls and instruments 1. Clutch lever (page 3-3) 2. Speedometer unit (page 3-2) 3. Brake lever (page 3-4) 4. Throttle grip (page 6-14) 5. Right handlebar switches (page 3-3) 6. Left handlebar switches (page 3-2)
  • Page 15: Instrument And Control Functions

    INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS Main switch ………………3-1 Indicator lights ………………3-1 Speedometer unit …………….3-2 Handlebar switches …………….3-2 Clutch lever ………………3-3 Shift pedal ………………3-4 Brake lever ………………3-4 Brake pedal ………………3-4 Fuel tank cap ………………3-5 Fuel ………………..

  • Page 16: Main Switch

    I NSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS EAU00027 1. Push. 1. High beam indicator light “ ” 2. Release. 2. Neutral indicator light “ ” EAU00028 3. Turn. 3. Turn signal indicator light “ ” Main switch EAU00055 EAU00056 The main switch controls the ignition P (Parking) Indicator lights and lighting systems.

  • Page 17: Instrument And Control Functions

    INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS EAU00124 Turn signal switch To signal a right-hand turn, push this switch to the right. To signal a left-hand turn, push this switch to the left. When released, the switch returns to the cen- ter position. Since this model is equipped with a self- canceling system, the turn signal lights will self-cancel after the motorcycle has…

  • Page 18: Clutch Lever

    INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS EAU00143 Start switch “ ” Push this switch to crank the engine with the starter. EC000005 CAUTION: See page 5-1 for starting instruc- tions prior to starting the engine. 1. Engine stop switch 1. Clutch lever EAU00149 2.

  • Page 19: Shift Pedal

    INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS 1. Shift pedal 1. Brake lever 1. Brake pedal EAU00157 EAU00158 EAU00162 Shift pedal Brake lever Brake pedal The shift pedal is located on the left The brake lever is located at the right The brake pedal is on the right side of side of the engine and is used in com- handlebar grip.

  • Page 20: Fuel Tank Cap

    INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS NOTE: The fuel tank cap cannot be closed un- less the key is in the lock. In addition, the key cannot be removed if the cap is not properly closed and locked. EWA00025 WARNING Make sure that the fuel tank cap is properly closed before riding.

  • Page 21: Starter (Choke) Lever

    INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS EAU00185 CAUTION: Immediately wipe off spilled fuel with a clean, dry, soft cloth, since fuel may deteriorate painted surfac- es or plastic parts. EAU00191 1. Starter (choke) lever Recommended fuel: EAU02976 Regular unleaded gasoline with a Starter (choke) lever research octane number of 91 or Starting a cold engine requires a richer…

  • Page 22: Steering Lock

    INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS To unlock the steering 1. Open the steering lock cover, and then insert the key. 2. Push the key in, turn it 1/8 turn counterclockwise so that it moves out, and then release it. 3. Remove the key, and then close the lock cover.

  • Page 23
    INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS 1. Projection 1. Bolt ( 2) 1. Seat holder ( 2) 2. Seat holder 2. Projection ( 2) Rider seat To install the passenger seat To install the rider seat To remove the rider seat 1. Insert the projection on the rear of 1.
  • Page 24: Helmet Holder

    INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS EAU00300 Adjusting the shock absorber assemblies Each shock absorber assembly is equipped with a spring preload adjust- ing ring. EC000015 CAUTION: Never attempt to turn an adjusting 1. Unlock. 1. Spring preload adjusting ring mechanism beyond the maximum 2.

  • Page 25: Sidestand

    It cuts the running engine when check this system regularly as de- the transmission is in gear and the scribed below and have a Yamaha sidestand is moved down. dealer repair it if it does not function Periodically check the operation of the properly.

  • Page 26
    5. Push the start switch. Does the engine start? The neutral switch may be defective. The motorcycle should not be ridden until checked by a Yamaha dealer. With the engine still running: 6. Move the sidestand up. 7. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
  • Page 27: Pre-Operation Checks

    PRE-OPERATION CHECKS Pre-operation check list…………..4-1…

  • Page 28: Pre-Operation Check List

    • Check vehicle for oil leakage. Final gear oil • Check vehicle for oil leakage. 6-9–6-10 • Check operation. • If soft or spongy, have Yamaha dealer bleed hydraulic system. • Check lever free play. Front brake • Adjust if necessary. 6-19, 6-21–6-23 •…

  • Page 29
    • Correct if necessary. • Check operation of ignition circuit cut-off system. Sidestand switch 3-10 • If system is defective, have Yamaha dealer check vehicle. • Check fluid level. Battery 6-29–6-30 • Fill with distilled water if necessary.
  • Page 31: Operation And Important Riding Points

    OPERATION AND IMPORTANT RIDING POINTS Starting a cold engine …………… 5-1 Starting a warm engine …………..5-2 Shifting ………………..5-3 Recommended shift points (for Switzerland only) ……5-3 Tips for reducing fuel consumption ………… 5-4 Engine break-in …………….. 5-4 Parking ………………..5-5…

  • Page 32: Starting A Cold Engine

    2. Shift the transmission into the neu- following conditions must be met: their functions before riding. tral position. The transmission is in the neutral Consult a Yamaha dealer re- position. NOTE: garding any control or function When the transmission is in the neutral…

  • Page 33: Starting A Warm Engine

    OPERATION AND IMPORTANT RIDING POINTS 5. After starting the engine, move the EAU01258 Starting a warm engine starter (choke) lever back halfway. Follow the same procedure as for start- ECA00045 ing a cold engine with the exception CAUTION: that the starter (choke) is not required For maximum engine life, never ac- when the engine is warm.

  • Page 34: Shifting

    OPERATION AND IMPORTANT RIDING POINTS EC000048 EAU02941 Recommended shift points CAUTION: (for Switzerland only) Even with the transmission in The recommended shift points during the neutral position, do not acceleration are shown in the table coast for long periods of time below.

  • Page 35: Tips For Reducing Fuel Consumption

    OPERATION AND IMPORTANT RIDING POINTS EAU00424 EAU00436 EAU00444* Tips for reducing fuel Engine break-in 0–150 km Avoid prolonged operation above consumption There is never a more important period 1/3 throttle. in the life of your engine than the period Fuel consumption depends largely on After every hour of operation, stop between 0 and 1,000 km.

  • Page 36: Parking

    If any engine trouble should occur WARNING during the engine break-in period, Since the engine and exhaust immediately have a Yamaha dealer system can become very hot, check the vehicle. park in a place where pedestri- ans or children are not likely to touch them.

  • Page 37: Periodic Maintenance And Minor Repair

    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR Owner’s tool kit …………6-1 Checking and lubricating the cables ….6-23 Periodic maintenance and lubrication chart ..6-2 Checking and lubricating the throttle grip and cable ……….6-24 Checking the spark plugs ……..6-5 Checking and lubricating the brake and Engine oil and oil filter element ……6-7 shift pedals …………

  • Page 38: Owner’s Tool Kit

    Periodic inspection, adjustment and lu- ence required for a particular job, have brication will keep your vehicle in the a Yamaha dealer perform it for you. safest and most efficient condition pos- EW000063 sible. The most important points of in-…

  • Page 39: Periodic Maintenance And Lubrication Chart

    The annual checks must be performed every year, except if a kilometer-based maintenance is performed instead. From 50,000 km, repeat the maintenance intervals starting from 10,000 km. Items marked with an asterisk should be performed by a Yamaha dealer as they require special tools, data and techni- cal skills.

  • Page 40
    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR ODOMETER READING ( 1,000 km) ANNUAL ITEM CHECK OR MAINTENANCE JOB CHECK • Check for cracks or damage. Brake hose • Replace. (See NOTE on page 6-4.) Every 4 years • Check runout, spoke tightness and for damage. Wheels •…
  • Page 41
    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR ODOMETER READING ( 1,000 km) ANNUAL ITEM CHECK OR MAINTENANCE JOB CHECK • Check oil level and vehicle for oil leakage. Final gear oil • Change. Front and rear brake • Check operation. switches Moving parts and cables • Lubricate. Lights, signals and •…
  • Page 42: Checking The Spark Plugs

    The spark plugs are important engine problems yourself. Instead, have a components, which are easy to check. Yamaha dealer check the motorcycle. Since heat and deposits will cause any 3. Check each spark plug for elec- spark plug to slowly erode, the spark…

  • Page 43
    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR Tightening torque: Spark plug: 20 Nm (2.0 m·kg) NOTE: If a torque wrench is not available when installing a spark plug, a good estimate of the correct torque is 1/4–1/2 turn past finger tight. However, the spark a.
  • Page 44: Engine Oil And Oil Filter Element

    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR EAU02942 Engine oil and oil filter element The engine oil level should be checked before each ride. In addition, the oil must be changed and the oil filter ele- ment replaced at the intervals specified in the periodic maintenance and lubri- cation chart.

  • Page 45
    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR 1. Engine oil drain bolt 1. Oil filter element cover 1. O-ring 2. Bolt ( 3) 2. Oil filter element 3. Remove the engine oil filler cap 4. Remove the oil filter element cover 5. Remove and replace the oil filter and drain bolt to drain the oil from by removing the bolts.
  • Page 46: Final Gear Oil

    If any 7. Install the engine oil drain bolt, and Without oil filter element leakage is found, have a Yamaha deal- then tighten it to the specified replacement: er check and repair the motorcycle. In torque.

  • Page 47
    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR NOTE: Recommended final gear oil: The oil level should be at the brim of Hypoid gear oil SAE 80 (API GL4) the filler hole. or multi-grade hypoid gear oil 3. If the oil is below the brim of the fill- SAE 80W-90 er hole, add sufficient oil of the rec- Oil quantity:…
  • Page 48: Cleaning The Air Filter Element

    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR 1. Fuel tank 1. Screw 1. Air filter case cover 2. Bolt ( 3) 2. Tab 3. Lift the front of the fuel tank to po- 3. Holder EAU03715 sition it away from the air filter 4.

  • Page 49
    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR EC000082 CAUTION: Make sure that the air filter ele- ment is properly seated in the air filter case. The engine should never be op- erated without the air filter ele- ment installed, otherwise the piston(s) and/or cylinder(s) may 1.
  • Page 50: Adjusting The Carburetors

    Therefore, most car- checked and, if necessary, adjusted as buretor adjustments should be left to a follows at the intervals specified in the Yamaha dealer, who has the neces- periodic maintenance and lubrication sary professional knowledge and expe- chart.

  • Page 51: Adjusting The Throttle Cable Free Play

    The valve clearance changes with use, resulting in improper air-fuel mixture and/or engine noise. To prevent this from occurring, the valve clearance must be adjusted by a Yamaha dealer at the intervals specified in the periodic maintenance and lubrication chart. a. Throttle cable free play…

  • Page 52: Tires

    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR EAU03362 CE-01E EWA00012 Tires Tire air pressure WARNING (measured on cold tires) To maximize the performance, durabil- Because loading has an enormous Load* Front Rear ity, and safe operation of your motor- impact on the handling, braking, 200 kPa 225 kPa cycle,…

  • Page 53
    Yamaha dealer replace the tire immediately. CE-08E Minimum tire tread depth 1.6 mm…
  • Page 54: Spoke Wheels

    If any dam- cycle cannot be guaranteed. The replacement of all wheel- age is found, have a Yamaha After extensive tests, only the and brake-related parts, includ- dealer replace the wheel. Do not tires listed below have been ap-…

  • Page 55: Adjusting The Clutch Lever Free Play

    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR 7. Tighten the locknut at the clutch lever and the crankcase. 1. Locknut 1. Locknut 2. Clutch lever free play adjusting bolt 2. Clutch lever free play adjusting nut c. Clutch lever free play 3. If the specified clutch lever free EAU00694 play could be obtained as de- Adjusting the clutch lever free…

  • Page 56: Adjusting The Brake Lever Free Play

    EW000104 After adjusting the brake lever WARNING free play, check the free play It is advisable to have a Yamaha and make sure that the brake is dealer make these adjustments. working properly. A soft or spongy feeling in the…

  • Page 57
    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR 1. Footrest 1. Brake pedal position adjusting bolt 1. Brake pedal free play adjusting nut 2. Distance between brake pedal and footrest 2. Locknut Brake pedal free play a. Brake pedal free play 1. Loosen the locknut at the brake The brake pedal free play should mea- Brake pedal position pedal.
  • Page 58: Adjusting The Rear Brake Light Switch

    Yamaha dealer replace the Turn the adjusting nut while holding the brake pads as a set. rear brake light switch in place. To make the brake light come on earlier, turn the adjusting nut in direction a.

  • Page 59: Checking The Brake Fluid Level

    Yamaha Be careful that water does not en- brake pads for wear and the brake sys-…

  • Page 60: Changing The Brake Fluid

    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR Brake fluid may deteriorate paint- EAU03238 EAU02962 Changing the brake fluid Checking and lubricating the ed surfaces or plastic parts. Al- Have a Yamaha dealer change the cables ways clean spilled fluid brake fluid at the intervals specified in The operation of all control cables and immediately.

  • Page 61: Checking And Lubricating The Throttle Grip And Cable

    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR EAU03209 Checking and lubricating the Recommended lubricant: Throttle cable: throttle grip and cable Engine oil The operation of the throttle grip and Throttle grip housing and grip: the condition of the throttle cable Lithium-soap-based grease should be checked before each ride, (all-purpose grease) and the cable should be lubricated or…

  • Page 62: Checking And Lubricating The Brake And Shift Pedals

    Recommended lubricant: Recommended lubricant: EW000113 WARNING Lithium-soap-based grease Lithium-soap-based grease If the sidestand does not move up (all-purpose grease) (all-purpose grease) and down smoothly, have a Yamaha dealer check or repair it. 6-25…

  • Page 63: Lubricating The Rear Suspension

    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR EAU00790 Recommended lubricant: Lubricating the rear Lithium-soap-based grease suspension (all-purpose grease) The pivoting points of the rear suspen- sion must be lubricated at the intervals specified in the periodic maintenance and lubrication chart. Recommended lubricant: Molybdenum disulfide grease 6-26…

  • Page 64: Checking The Front Fork

    EC000098 CAUTION: If any damage is found or the front fork does not operate smoothly, have a Yamaha dealer check or re- pair it. 6-27…

  • Page 65: Checking The Wheel Bearings

    Yamaha dealer check the wheel bearings. 2. Hold the lower ends of the front fork legs and try to move them for- ward and backward. If any free play can be felt, have a Yamaha dealer check repair steering.

  • Page 66: Battery

    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR 3. If the electrolyte is at or below the minimum level mark, add distilled water to raise it to the maximum level mark. EW000116 WARNING Electrolyte is poisonous and dangerous since it contains sul- furic acid, which causes severe 1.

  • Page 67
    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR away from the battery and pro- 2. If the battery will be stored for vide sufficient ventilation when more than two months, check the charging it in an enclosed specific gravity of the electrolyte at space.
  • Page 68: Replacing The Fuses

    4. If the fuse immediately blows If a fuse is blown, replace it as follows. again, have a Yamaha dealer 1. Turn the key to “OFF” and turn off check the electrical system. the electrical circuit in question.

  • Page 69
    4. Place a new bulb into position, and 5. Install the bulb cover, and then then secure it with the bulb holder. connect the coupler. 6. Install the headlight unit by install- ing the screws. 7. Have a Yamaha dealer adjust the headlight beam if necessary. 6-32…
  • Page 70: Replacing A Turn Signal Light Bulb Or The Tail/Brake Light Bulb

    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR EAU01579 Supporting the motorcycle Since this model is not equipped with a centerstand, follow these precautions when removing the front and rear wheel or performing other mainte- nance requiring the motorcycle to stand upright. Check that the motor- cycle is in a stable and level position before starting any maintenance.

  • Page 71: Front Wheel

    3. Lift the front wheel off the ground EW000122 according to the procedure on WARNING page 6-33. It is advisable to have a Yamaha 4. Pull the wheel axle out, and then dealer service the wheel. remove the wheel. Securely support the motor-…

  • Page 72: Rear Wheel

    2. Lift the wheel up between the fork Front wheel axle pinch bolt: WARNING legs. 23 Nm (2.3 m·kg) It is advisable to have a Yamaha NOTE: dealer service the wheel. 8. Connect the speedometer cable. Make sure that there is enough space…

  • Page 73
    PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR 6. Loosen the rear wheel axle pinch bolt, and then pull the wheel axle out. 7. Pull the wheel to the right to sepa- rate it from the final gear case, and then remove it. 1.
  • Page 74: Troubleshooting

    20 Nm (2.0 m·kg) self. However, should your motorcycle soap-based grease to the splines require any repair, take it to a Yamaha 8. Install the brake torque rod cotter of the final gear case and wheel dealer, whose skilled technicians have pin.

  • Page 75: Troubleshooting Chart

    Remove the spark plugs and check the electrodes. The engine does not start. Have a Yamaha dealer check the vehicle. Check the battery. 4. Battery The engine turns over The battery is good.

  • Page 77: Motorcycle Care And Storage

    MOTORCYCLE CARE AND STORAGE Care ………………..7-1 Storage ………………..7-4…

  • Page 78
    M OTORCYCLE CARE AND STORAGE EAU03412 Care Before cleaning Cleaning 1. Cover the muffler outlets with plas- ECA00010 While the open design of a motorcycle CAUTION: tic bags after the engine has reveals the attractiveness of the tech- Avoid using strong acidic wheel cooled down.
  • Page 79
    MOTORCYCLE CARE AND STORAGE Do not use any harsh chemical For motorcycles equipped with After riding in the rain, near the sea or products on plastic parts. Be a windshield: Do not use strong on salt-sprayed roads sure to avoid using cloths or cleaners or hard sponges as Since sea salt or salt sprayed on roads sponges which have been in…
  • Page 80
    MOTORCYCLE CARE AND STORAGE After cleaning EWA00031 NOTE: WARNING Consult a Yamaha dealer for advice on 1. Dry the motorcycle with a chamois Make sure that there is no oil or what products to use. or an absorbing cloth. wax on the brakes or tires.
  • Page 81
    MOTORCYCLE CARE AND STORAGE Storage Long-term a. Remove the spark plug caps and Before storing your motorcycle for sev- spark plugs. eral months: b. Pour a teaspoonful of engine oil Short-term 1. Follow all the instructions in the into each spark plug bore. Always store your motorcycle in a cool, “Care”…
  • Page 82
    MOTORCYCLE CARE AND STORAGE 6. Lubricate all control cables and the pivoting points of all levers and pedals as well as of the sidestand/ centerstand. 7. Check and, if necessary, correct the tire air pressure, and then lift the motorcycle so that both of its wheels are off the ground.
  • Page 83: Specifications

    SPECIFICATIONS Specifications ………………8-1 Conversion table …………….8-5…

  • Page 84
    S PECIFICATIONS EAU01038 Specifications CS-01E Model XV535 Engine oil Dimensions Type -20 -10 10 20 30 40 50 ˚C Overall length 2,225 mm (except for N, S, SF) SAE 10W–30 2,250 mm (for N, S, SF) Overall width 780 mm SAE 10W–40…
  • Page 85
    SPECIFICATIONS Final gear oil Gear ratio Type Hypoid gear oil SAE 80 2.714 (API GL4) or multigrade hypoid 1.900 gear oil SAE 80W-90 1.458 Quantity 0.19 L 1.167 Air filter Dry type element 0.967 Fuel Chassis Type Regular unleaded gasoline Frame type Pressed backbone Fuel tank capacity…
  • Page 86
    SPECIFICATIONS Maximum load* 220 kg (except for A) Rear 218 kg (for A) Type Drum brake Tire air pressure Operation Right foot (measured on cold tires) Suspension Up to 90 kg* Front Telescopic fork Front 200 kPa (2.00 kg/cm , 2.00 bar) Rear Swingarm Rear…
  • Page 87
    SPECIFICATIONS Bulb voltage, wattage quantity Headlight 12 V, 60/55 W Auxiliary light 12 V, 4 W 1 (except for GB) 12V, 3.4 W 1 (for GB) Tail/brake light 12 V, 5/21 W Front turn signal light 12 V, 21 W Rear turn signal light 12 V, 21 W Meter lighting…
  • Page 88: Conversion Table

    SPECIFICATIONS EAU01064 Conversion table CS-02E Conversion table All specification data in this manual are listed in SI and METRIC TO IMPERIAL METRIC UNITS. Metric unit Multiplier Imperial unit Use this table to convert METRIC unit data to IMPERIAL m·kg 7.233 ft·lb m·kg 86.794…

  • Page 89: Consumer Information

    CONSUMER INFORMATION Identification numbers ……………. 9-1 Key identification number …………..9-1 Vehicle identification number …………. 9-1 Model label………………9-2…

  • Page 90: Identification Numbers

    Record the key identification number, vehicle identification number and mod- el label information in the spaces pro- vided below for assistance when ordering spare parts from a Yamaha dealer or for reference in case the vehi- cle is stolen. 1. Key identification number 1.

  • Page 91: Consumer Information

    The model label is affixed to the frame under the rider seat. (See page 3-7 for seat removal and installation proce- dures.) Record the information on this label in the space provided. This infor- mation will be needed when ordering spare parts from a Yamaha dealer.

  • Page 92: Brake Lever

    I NDEX 1 0 — Air filter element, cleaning ……6-11 Engine break-in ……..5-4 Light switch ……….3-3 Engine oil and oil filter element ….6-7 Engine stop switch……..3-3 Battery ………..6-29 Main switch ……….3-1 Brake and clutch levers, checking and Model label ……….9-2 lubricating ……….6-25 Final gear oil……….

  • Page 93: Throttle Grip

    INDEX Spark plugs, checking ……6-5 Specifications ………. 8-1 Wheel bearings, checking ….. 6-28 Speedometer unit ……..3-2 Wheel (front) ……… 6-34 Starter (choke) lever …….. 3-6 Installing ………. 6-35 Starting a cold engine ……5-1 Removing ……..6-34 Starting a warm engine……5-2 Wheel (rear) ……….

  • Page 96
    YAMAHA MOTOR CO., LTD. PRINTED ON RECYCLED PAPER PRINTED IN JAPAN 2000 · 7 — 0.2 1 CR…

  1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. Yamaha Manuals
  4. Motorcycle
  5. XV 535 DX Virago
  6. Service manual
  • Contents

  • Table of Contents

  • Troubleshooting

  • Bookmarks

Quick Links

loading

Related Manuals for Yamaha XV 535 DX Virago

Summary of Contents for Yamaha XV 535 DX Virago

  • Page 208
    Důrazné varování : Při použití nesprávného typu nabíječky může dojít k velmi závažnému poškození nejen samotného akumulátoru. Čtěte prosím tento článek : http://www.k1400.cz/clanky/radime/optimate/nabijecka.htm…
  • Page 210
    Místo pro vaše poznámky :…

Table of Contents

Yamaha

XV535

through 1100

Owners

Workshop

Manual

by Alan Ahlstrand and John H Haynes

Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered:

USA: Yamaha XV535 Virago. 535cc. 1987 through 1990 and 1993 through 1994

Yamaha XV535S Virago. 535cc. 1994

Yamaha XV700 Virago. 699cc. 1984 through 1987 Yamaha XV750 Virago. 748cc. 1981 through 1983 and

1988 through 1994

Yamaha XV920 Virago. 920cc. 1982 and 1983 Yamaha XV920R (chain drive). 920cc. 1981 and 1982 Yamaha XV1000 Virago. 981 cc. 1984 and 1985 Yamaha XV1100 Virago. 1063cc. 1986 through 1994

UK: Yamaha XV535. 535cc. 1988 through 1994 Yamaha XV535S. 535cc. 1994

Yamaha XV750SE Special. 748cc. 1981 through 1983 Yamaha XV750 Virago. 748cc. 1992 through 1994 Yamaha TR1 (chain drive). 981cc. 1981 through 1985 Yamaha XV1000 Virago. 981 cc. 1986 through 1989 Yamaha XV1100 Virago. 1063 cc. 1989 through 1994

ABCDE

FGHIJ

KLMNO

PQRS

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford Nr Yeovil

Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive

Newbury Park

California 91320 USA .

Acknowledgements

Our thanks to Mitsui Machinery Sales (UK) Ltd for permission to reproduce certain illustrations used in this manual. We would also like to thank NGK Spark Plugs (UK) Ltd for supplying the color spark plug condition photos and the Avon Rubber Company for supplying information on tire fitting. Special thanks to Grand Prix Kawasaki/Yamaha, Santa Clara, California, for providing the facilities used for these photographs; to Mark Woodward, service manager, for arranging the facilities and fitting the mechanical work into his shop’s busy schedule; and to Denny Jewell, service technician, for doing the mechanical work and providing valuable technical information,

© Haynes North America, Inc. 1994

With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual Series

Printed in the U.S.A.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN1 56392103 0

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 94-73120

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but motorcycle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular motorcycle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

94-360

Contents

Introductory pages

About this manual

0-6

Introduction to the Yamaha XV

0-6

Identification numbers

0-7

Buying parts

0-8

General specifications

0-8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-11

Safety first!

0-17

Motorcycle chemicals and lubricants

0-18

Troubleshooting

0-19

Chapter 1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-1

Chapter 2 Part A

Engine, clutch and transmission (XV535 models)

2A-1

Chapter 2 Part B

Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700 through 1100 models)

2B-1

Chapter 3 Part A

Fuel and exhaust systems (XV535 models)

3A-1

Chapter 3 Part B

Fuel and exhaust systems (XV700 through 1100 models)

3B-1

Chapter 4 Part A

Ignition system (XV535 models)

4A-1

Chapter 4 Part B

Ignition system (XV700 through 1100 models)

4B-1

Chapter 5 Part A

Steering, suspension and final drive (XV535 models)

5A-1

Chapter 5 Part B

Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700 through 1100 models)

5B-1

Chapter 6 Part A

Brakes, wheels and tires (XV535 models)

6A-1

Chapter 6 Part B

Brakes, wheels and tires (XV700 through 1100 models)

6B-1

Chapter 7 Part A

Frame and bodywork (XV535 models)

7A-1

Chapter 7 Part B

Frame and bodywork (XV700 through 1100 models)

7B-1

Chapter 8 Part A

Electrical system (XV535 models)

8A-1

Chapter 8 Part B

Electrical system (XV700 through 1100 models)

8B-1

Chapter 9

Wiring diagrams

9-1

Conversion factors

The 1985 XV700 Virago model

Yamaha Virago XV535-1100 1981-1994 Service Manual

The TR1 model

The 1994 XV1100 Virago model

0-6

About this manual

Its purpose

The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your motorcycle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs.

We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual

The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs.

At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent

Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that

Section.

Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word «Chapter» apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, «see Section 8» means in the same Chapter.

References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting on the seat, facing forward.

Motorcycle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity.

Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE

A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION

A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING

A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Yamaha XV

The Yamaha XV (Virago) series are highly successful and popular cruiser-style motorcycles.

The engine on all models is an air-cooled, V-twin with overhead camshafts. .

Fuel is delivered to the cylinders by two Hitachi or Mikuni carburetors; XV535, XV1000 and XV1100 models use an electric fuel pump.

The front suspension uses a pair of conventional forks, adjustable by varying the fork air pressure on some models. Fork damping is adjustable on XV920 J models.

The rear suspension on 1981 through 1983 models uses a single shock absorber and coil spring. Later models use twin rear shock absorbers with concentric coil springs. Spring preload is adjustable on all XV700 through 1100 models; shock absorber damping is adjustable on 1984 and later XV700 through 1100 models.

The front brake uses a single or dual disc; a drum brake is used at the rear.

Shaft final drive is used on most of the bikes covered in this manual. Some models use an unusual chain drive system, with the chain completely enclosed in housings and running in a bath of grease.

Identification numbers

The frame serial number is stamped into the right side of the frame and printed on a label affixed to the frame. The engine number is stamped into the right upper side of the crankcase. Both of these numbers should be recorded and kept in a safe place so they can be furnished to law enforcement officials in the event of a theft.

The frame serial number, engine serial number and carburetor identification number should also be kept in a handy place (such as with your driver’s license) so they are always available when purchasing or ordering parts for your machine.

The models covered by this manual are as follows: XV535, 1987 through 1990 US

XV535, 1993 and 1994 US XV535, 1988 through 1994 UK

XV700,1984 through 1987 US

XV750, 1981 through 1983 and 1988 through 1994 US

XV750, 1981 through 1983 UK, 1992 through 1994 UK XV920, 1981 through 1983 US

XV1000 shaft drive, 1984 and 1985 US,

1986 through 1989 UK

XV1000 chain drive (TR1), 1981 through 1985 UK XV1100, 1986 through 1994 US, 1989 through 1994 UK

Identifying engines and model years

The procedures in this manual identify the bikes by model year. To determine which model year a given machine is, look for the following identification codes in the engine and frame numbers:

The frame number is stamped in the right side of the frame and is also displayed on a decal

The engine number is stamped in the right side of the crankcase

0-7

Year

Code

XV535 models

1987and 1988 US

2GV

1989 and 1990 US

3JC1/3JC2

1993 US

3JC7/3JC8

1994 US

XV535

3JCA, 3JCB

XV535S

3JCB, 3JCD

1988 UK

3BT1

1989

UK.

3BT2/3BT5

1990 UK

3BTC/3BT8

1991 UK

3BTE/3BTF

1992 UK

3BTK/3BTM

1993 UK

3BTR/3BTT

1994 UK

XV535

4KU2/3BTW

XV535S

4KU4 (flat handlebar)

XV535S

3BTV/3BTY (upright handlebar)

XV700 models

1984

42W/42X

1985

56E/56F

1986 and 1987

1RM/1RV/1RR/1TU

XV750 models

1981 through 1983 US

XV750 H, J, K

4X7

XV750 MK

20X

1988 U S . .

3AL/3CM

1989 US

3JL1/3JL2

1990 US

3JL4/3JL5

1991 US

3JL7/3JL8

1992 US

3JUV3JLB

1993 US

3JLD/3JLE

1994 US

3JLG/3JLH

1981 through 1983 UK

5G5

1992 and 1993 UK

4FY1

1994 UK

4FY4

XV920 models

1981 and 1982 chain drive

5H1

1982 shaft drive

10L

1983 shaft drive

XV920 K

24M

XV920 MK

27Y

XV1000 models

1984 US

42G/42H

1985 US

56V/56W

1981 UK

5A8

1982 through 1985 UK

19T

1986 and 1987 UK

2AE

1988 and 1989 UK

3DR1

XV1100 models

1986 and 1987 US

1TE/1TA

1988 US

3CF/3CG

1989 US

3JK1/3JK2

1990 US

3JK4/3JK5

1991 US

3JK7/3JK8

1992 US

3JKB/3JKC

1993 US

3JKA/3JKE

1994 US

3JKG/3JKH

1989 and 1990 UK

3LP1

1991 UK

. 3LP2

1992 and 1993 UK

3LP4

1994 UK

3LP8

0-8

Buying parts

Once you have found all the identification numbers, record them for reference when buying parts. Since the manufacturers change specifications, parts and vendors (companies that manufacture various components on the machine), providing the ID numbers is the only way to be reasonably sure that you are buying the correct parts.

Whenever possible, take the worn part to the dealer so direct comparison with the new component can be made. Along the trail from the manufacturer to the parts shelf, there are numerous places that the part can end up with the wrong number or be listed incorrectly.

The two places to purchase new parts for your motorcycle — the accessory store and the franchised dealer — differ in the type of parts they carry. While dealers can obtain virtually every part for your

motorcycle, the accessory dealer is usually limited to normal high wear items such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, various engine gaskets, cables, chains, brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory outlet have major suspension components, cylinders, transmission gears, or cases.

Used parts can be obtained for roughly half the price of new ones, but you can’t always be sure of what you’re getting. Once again, take your worn part to the wrecking yard (breaker) for direct comparison.

Whether buying new, used or rebuilt parts, the best course is to deal directly with someone who specializes in parts for your particular make.

General specifications

XV535 models

1987 and 1988 US models

Wheelbase

1511 mm (59.5 inches)

Overall length

2210 mm (87.0 inches)

Overall width

815 mm (32.1 inches)

Overall height

1100 mm (43.3 inches)

Seat height

700 mm (27.6 inches)

Ground clearance (minimum)

145 mm (5.7 inches)

Weight (with oil and full fuel tank)

US except California

185 kg (408 lbs)

California

186 kg (410 lbs)

1989-on US models

Wheelbase

1520 mm (59.8 inches)

Overall length

2225 mm (87.6 inches)

Overall width

810 mm (31.9 inches)

Overall height

1110 mm (43.7 inches)

Seat height

720 mm (28.3 inches)

Ground clearance (minimum)

160 mm (6.3 inches)

Weight (with oil and full fuel tank)

US except California

195 kg (430 lbs)

California

196 kg (432 lbs)

1988 UK models

Wheelbase

.

1520 mm (59.8 inches)

Overall length

2225 mm (87.6 inches)

Overall width

810 mm (31.9 inches)

Overall height

1100 mm (43.3 inches)

Seat height

700 mm (27.6 inches)

Ground clearance (minimum)

160 mm (6.3 inches)

Weight (with oil and full fuel tank)

188 kg (415 lbs)

General specifications

0-9

1989-on UK models

Wheelbase

1520 mm (59.8 inches)

Overall length

2285 mm (90.0 inches)

Overall width

Flat handlebar

725 mm (88.6 inches)

Upright handlebar

810 mm (31.9 inches)

Overall height

Flat handlebar

1070 mm (42.1 inches)

Upright handlebar

1110 mm (43.7 inches)

Seat height

720 mm (28.3 inches)

Ground clearance (minimum)

160 mm (6.3 inches)

Weight (with oil and full fuel tank)

195 kg (430 lbs)

XV700 and US XV1000 models

Wheelbase

1525 mm (60.0 inches)

Overall length

2235 mm (88.0 inches)

Overall width

840 mm (33.1 inches)

Overall height

1170 mm (46.1 inches)

Seat height

715 mm (28.1 inches)

Ground clearance (minimum)

145 mm (5.7 inches)

Weight (with oil and full fuel tank)

1984 and 1985 XV700 models

225 kg (496 lbs)

1986 and 1987 XV700 models

229 kg (505 lbs)

XV1000 models

236 kg (520 lbs)

XV750 models (1981 through 1983)

Wheelbase

1520 mm (59.8 inches)

Overall length

2230 mm (87.8 inches)

Overall width

US models

805 mm (31,7 inches)

UK models

840 mm (33.1 inches)

Overall height

US models

1160 mm (45.7 inches)

UK models

1210 mm (47.6 inches)

Seat height….

not specified

Ground clearance (minimum)

145 mm (5.7 inches)

Weight (dry)

US models

225 kg (496 lbs)

UK models

.

211 kg (465 lbs)

XV750 models (1988-on US)

Wtieelbase

1525 mm (60.0 inches)

Overall length

2285 mm (90.0 inches)

Overall width

840 mm (33.1 inches)

Overall height

1190 mm (46.9 inches)

Seat height

715 mm (28.1 inches)

Ground clearance (minimum)

145 mm (5.7 inches)

Weight

Not specified

XV750 models (1992-on UK)

Wheelbase

1525 mm (60.0 inches)

Overall length

2285 mm (90.0 inches)

Overall width

840 mm (33.1 inches)

Overall height..

1190 mm (46.9 inches)

Seat height

715 mm (28.1 inches)

Ground clearance (minimum)

145 mm (5.7 inches)

Weight

1992 and 1993 models

235 kg (518 lbs)

1994 models

236 kg (520 lbs)

XV920 J models

Wheelbase

1520 mm (59.8 inches)

Overall length

2220 mm (87.4 inches)

Overall width

.

840 mm (33.1 inches)

Overall height

1205 mm (47.4 inches)

Seat height

Not specified

Ground clearance (minimum)

.

145 mm (5.7 inches)

Weight

225 kg (496 lbs)

0-10

General specifications

XV920 K and MK models

Wheelbase

1520 mm (59.8 inches)

Overall length

2230 mm (87.8 inches)

Overall width

805 mm (31.7 inches)

Overall height

1160 mm (45.7 inches)

Seat height

Not specified

Ground clearance (minimum)

145 mm (5.7 inches)

Weight

235 kg (518 lbs)

XV920 RH and RJ models

Wheelbase

1540 mm (60.6 inches)

Overall length

2260 mm (89.0 inches)

Overall width

930 mm (36.6 inches)

Overall height

1170 mm (46.1 inches)

Seat height

Not specified

Ground clearance (minimum)

140 mm (5.5 inches)

Weight

224 kg (493 lbs)

XV1000 models (1981 through 1985 UK TR1)

Wheelbase

1540 mm (60.6 inches)

Overall length

2265 mm (89.2 inches)

Overall width

730 mm (28.7 inches)

Overall height

1170 mm (46.1 inches)

Seat height

Not specified

Ground clearance (minimum)

140 mm (5.5 inches)

Weight

220 kg (485 lbs)

XV1100 models (1986-on)

Wheelbase

1525 mm (60.0 inches)

Overall length

US models

2235 mm (88.0 inches) •

UK models

2285 mm (90.0 inches)

Overall width

840 mm (33.1 inches)

Overall height

1986 and 1987

1170 mm (46.1 inches)

1988-on

1190 mm (46.9 inches)

Seat height

715 mm (28.1 inches)

Ground clearance (minimum)

145 mm (5.7 inches)

Weight (with oil and full fuel tank)

US models

239 kg (527 lbs)

UK models

240 kg (529 lbs)

0-11

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Basic maintenance techniques

There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the amateur mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fastening systems

Fasteners, basically, are nuts, bolts and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type (either a lock washer, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive). All threaded fasteners should be clean, straight, have undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones.

Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating oil to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it «work» for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores.

If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled out and removed with a special tool called an E-Z out (or screw extractor). Most dealer service departments and motorcycle repair shops can perform this task, as well as others (such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out).

Flat washers and lock washers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Always use a flat washer between a lock washer and any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic. Special locknuts can only be used once or twice before they lose their locking ability and must be replaced.

Tightening sequences and procedures

When threaded fasteners are tightened, they are often tightened to a specific torque value (torque is basically a twisting force). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while under-tightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Each bolt, depending on the material it’s made of, the diameter of its shank and the material it is threaded into, has a specific torque value, which is noted in the Specifications. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely.

Fasteners laid out in a pattern (i.e. cylinder head bolts, engine case bolts, etc.) must be loosened or tightened in a sequence to avoid warping the component. Initially, the bolts/nuts should go on finger tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a crisscross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one tightened and tighten them all one half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners the procedure would be reversed.

Disassembly sequence

Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly during reassembly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Take note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way (such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft). It’s a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a

clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal.

When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mixups later. If nuts and bolts can’t be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. engine case bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts (such as the carburetors and the valve train). The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents.

Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it’s a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces

Throughout any motorcycle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between components and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly.

Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. In most cases, the part can be loosened by striking it with a soft-faced hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed.

Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart components, as they can easily mar the gasket Sealing surfaces of the parts (which must remain smooth). If prying is absolutely necessary, use a piece of wood, but keep in mind that extra clean-up will be necessary if the wood splinters.

After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with a gasket remover (available in aerosol cans) to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer is best.

Hose removal tips

Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off (silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot). Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation.

0-12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Spark plug gap adjusting tool

Feeler gauge set

Control cable pressure luber

Hand impact screwdriver and bits

Torque wrenches (left — click type; right — beam type)

If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Also, do not reuse hoses that are cracked, split or torn.

Tools

A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair a motorcycle. For the owner who has few tools, if any, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of routine maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed.

Eventually the basic kit will be built into the Repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-13

Snap-ring pliers (top — external; bottom — internal)

Allen wrenches (left) and Allen head sockets (right)

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring removal/installation tool

Piston pin puller

Telescoping gauges

0-14

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-to1-inch micrometer

Cylinder surfacing hone

Cylinder compression gauge

Dial indicator set

Multimeter (volt/ohm/ammeter)

Adjustable spanner

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-15

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box end and open end combined in one wrench); while more expensive than open-ended ones, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrench set (6 mm to 22 mm)

Adjustable wrench -8 in

Spark plug socket (with rubber insert)

Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set

Standard screwdriver (5/16 in x 6 in) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2×6 in)

Allen (hex) wrench set (4 mm to 12 mm)

Combination (slip-joint) pliers — 6 in Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge

Control cable pressure luber Grease gun

Oil can

Fine emery cloth Wire brush

Hand impact screwdriver and bits

Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles

Drain pan

Work light with extension cord

Repair and overhaul tool set

These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are intended to supplement those in the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility (especially when various extensions and drives are available). We recommend the 3/8 inch drive over the 1/2 inch drive for general motorcycle maintenance and repair (ideally, the mechanic would have a 3/8 inch drive set and a 1/2 inch drive set).

Socket set(s)

Reversible ratchet Extension — 6 in

Universal joint

Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball pein hammer — 8 oz

Soft-faced hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4 in x 6 in) Standard screwdriver (stubby — 5/16 in)

Phillips screwdriver (No. 3×8 in)

Phillips screwdriver (stubby — No. 2) Pliers — locking

Pliers — lineman’s Pliers — needle nose

Pliers — snap-ring (internal and external)

Cold chisel — 1/2 in Scriber

Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Center punch

Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16 in) Steel rule/straightedge — 12 in Pin-type spanner wrench

A selection of files Wire brush (large)

Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8 inch (and a set of good quality drill bits).

Special tools

The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used

frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends (i.e. members of a motorcycle club).

This list primarily contains tools and instruments widely available to the public, as well as some special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. As a result, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are occasionally included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool can’t be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or a motorcycle repair shop.

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring removal and installation tool Piston pin puller

Telescoping gauges

Micrometers) and/or dial/Vernier calipers

Cylinder surfacing hone

Cylinder compression gauge

Dial indicator set

Multimeter

Adjustable spanner

Manometer or vacuum gauge set

Small air compressor with blow gun and tire chuck

Buying tools

For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in motorcycle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices (and they often come with a tool box). As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used.

Tool stores and motorcycle dealers will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones (especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets) because they won’t last very long.There are plenty of tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase items which meet the relevant national safety standards. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use, there is a book entitled Motorcycle Workshop Practice Manual (Book no. 1454) available from the publishers of this manual. It also provides an introduction to basic workshop practice which will be of interest to a home mechanic working on any type of motorcycle.

Care and maintenance of tools

Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area.

Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they can’t be damaged by weather or impact from other tools.

When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it; subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

0-16

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Working facilities

Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential.

It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside (it is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof).

A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches.

As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary.

Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, simply pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or service station. Plastic jugs are ideal for this purpose.

Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the motorcycle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor.

Whenever working over a painted surface (such as the fuel tank) cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish.

Safety first

Professional mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment’s lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe simple precautions.

There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following is not a comprehensive list of all dangers; it is intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safe approach to all work you carry out on your bike.

Essential DOs andDON’Ts

DON’T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral.

DON’T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system — cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant.

DON’T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you.

DON’T grasp any part of the engine or exhaust system without first ascertaining that it is cool enough not to burn you.

DON’T allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact the machine’s paint work or plastic components.

DON’T siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin.

DON’T inhale dust — it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos heading).

DON’T allow any spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up right away, before someone slips on it.

DON’T use ill fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury.

DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance.

DON’T rush to finish a job or take unverified short cuts.

DON’T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle.

DON’T inflate a tire to a pressure above the recommended maximum. Apart from over stressing the carcase and wheel rim, in extreme cases the tire may blow off forcibly.

DO ensure that the machine is supported securely at all times. This is especially important when the machine is blocked up to aid wheel or fork removal.

DO take care when attempting to loosen a stubborn nut or bolt. It is generally better to pull on a wrench, rather than push, so that if you slip, you fall away from the machine rather than onto it.

DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc.

DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs -‘it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren’t left slippery. Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard.

DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, ties etc. and long hair) well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

DO remove rings, wristwatch etc., before working on the vehicleespecially the electrical system.

DO keep your work area tidy — it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around.

DO exercise caution when compressing springs for removal or installation. Ensure that the tension is applied and released in a controlled manner, using suitable tools which preclude the possibility of the spring escaping violently.

DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle.

DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards.

DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

0-17

IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Asbestos

Certain friction, insulating, sealing and other products — such as brake pads, clutch linings, gaskets, etc. — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire

Remember at all times that gasoline (petrol) is highly flammable.

Never smoke or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there — a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline (petrol) vapor, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Never use gasoline (petrol) as a cleaning solvent. Use an approved safety solvent.

Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust.

It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline

(petrol) vapor comes into this category, as do the vapors from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area.

When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers — they may give off poisonous vapors.

Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace.

The battery

Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light near the vehicle’s battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive.

Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems (except where noted).

If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst.

Take care when topping up, cleaning or carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. Always wear rubber gloves and goggles or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water; never add the water to the acid.

Electricity

When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc., always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded (earthed). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor. Also ensure that the appliances meet national safety standards.

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the electrical» system, such as the spark plug wires (HT leads), when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is used, the secondary (HT) voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Motorcycle chemicals and lubricants

A number of chemicals and lubricants are available for use in motorcycle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Contact point/spark plug cleaner is a solvent used to clean oily film and dirt from points, grime from electrical connectors and oil deposits from spark plugs. It is oil free and leaves no residue. It can also be used to remove gum and varnish from carburetor jets and other orifices.

Carburetor cleaner is similar to contact point/spark plug cleaner but it usually has a stronger solvent and may leave a slight oily reside.

It is not recommended for cleaning electrical components or connections.

Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease or brake fluid from brake system components (where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary and petroleum-based solvents cannot be used); it also leaves no residue.

Silicone-based lubricants are used to protect rubber parts such as hoses and grommets, and are used as lubricants for hinges and locks.

Multi-purpose grease is an all purpose lubricant used wherever grease is more practical than a liquid lubricant such as oil. Some multipurpose grease is colored white and specially formulated to be more resistant to water than ordinary grease.

Gear oil (sometimes called gear lube) is a specially designed oil used in transmissions and final drive units, a s well as other areas where high friction, high temperature lubrication is required. It is available in a number of viscosities (weights) for various applications.

Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant specially formulated for use in the engine. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) of from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the seasonal temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions; heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have Characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50.

Gas (petrol) additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts.

They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings.

Brake fluid is a specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt.

Chain lubricants are formulated especially for use on motorcycle final drive chains. A good chain lube should adhere well and have good penetrating qualities to be effective as a lubricant inside the chain and on the side plates, pins and rollers. Most chain lubes are either the foaming type or quick drying type and are usually marketed as sprays.

Degreasers are heavy duty solvents used to remove grease and grime that may accumulate on engine and frame components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed with either water or solvent.

Solvents are used alone or in combination with degreasers to clean parts and assemblies during repair and overhaul. The home mechanic should use only solvents that are non-flammable and that do not produce irritating fumes.

Gasket sealing compounds may be used in conjunction with gaskets, to improve their sealing capabilities, or alone, to seal metal- to-metal joints. Many gasket sealers can withstand extreme heat, some are impervious to gasoline and lubricants, while others are capable of filling and sealing large cavities. Depending on the intended use, gasket sealers either dry hard or stay relatively soft and pliable. They are usually applied by hand, with a brush, or are sprayed on the gasket sealing surfaces.

Thread cement is an adhesive locking compound that prevents threaded fasteners from loosening because of vibration. It is available in a variety of types for different applications.

Moisture dispersants are usually sprays that can be used to dry out electrical components such as the fuse block and wiring connectors. Some types can also be used as treatment for rubber and as a lubricant for hinges, cables and locks.

Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older-vehicles. In recent years, many non-wax polishes (that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones) have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

0-19

Troubleshooting

Contents

Symptom Section

Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start

Starter motor doesn’t rotate…

1

Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over

2

Starter works but engine won’t turn over (seized)

3

No fuel flow

.

4

Engine flooded

5

No spark or weak spark

6

Compression low

7

Stalls after starting

8

Rough idle

9

Poor running at low speed

Spark weak

10

Fuel/air mixture incorrect

11

Compression low

12

Poor acceleration

13

Poor running or no power at high speed

Symptom

Section

Jumps out of gear…

29

Overshifts

30

Abnormal engine noise

Knocking or pinging

31

Piston slap or rattling

32

Valve noise

33

Other noise

34

Abnormal driveline noise

Clutch noise

35

Transmission noise

36

Chain or final drive noise

37

Abnormal frame and suspension noise

Front end noise

38

Shock absorber noise

39

Disc brake noise

40

Firing incorrect

14

Oil level indicator light comes on

Fuel/air mixture incorrect

15

Engine lubrication system

41

Compression low

16

Electrical system

42

Knocking or pinging

17

Excessive exhaust smoke

Miscellaneous causes

18

White smoke

43

Overheating

Black smoke

44

Brown srnoke

45

Engine overheats

19

Poor handling or stability

Firing incorrect

20

Fuel/air mixture incorrect

21

Handlebar hard to turn

46

Compression too high

22

Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively

47

Engine load excessive

23

Handlebar pulls to one side

48

Lubrication inadequate

24

Poor shock absorbing qualities

49

Miscellaneous causes

25

Braking problems

Clutch problems

Brakes are spongy, don’t hold

50

Clutch slipping

26

Brake lever pulsates

51

Clutch not disengaging completely

27

Brakes drag

52

Gear shifting problems

Electrical problems

Battery dead or weak

53

Doesn’t go into gear, or lever doesn’t return

28

Battery overcharged

54

Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start

1 Starter motor does not rotate

1Engine kill switch Off.

2Fuse blown. Check fuse block (Chapter 8).

3Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery (Chapter 8).

4Starter motor defective. Make sure the wiring to the starter is secure. Test starter relay (Chapter 8). If the relay is good, then the fault is in the wiring or motor.

5Starter relay faulty. Check it according to the procedure in

Chapter 8.

6Starter switch not contacting. The contacts could be wet, corroded or dirty. Disassemble and clean the switch (Chapter 8).

7Wiring open or shorted. Check all wiring connections and harnesses to make sure that they are dry, tight and not corroded. Also check for broken or frayed wires that can cause a short to ground (see wiring diagram, Chapter 8).

8Ignition switch defective. Check the switch according to the procedure in Chapter 8. Replace the switch with a new one if it is defective.

9Engine kill switch defective. Check for wet, dirty or corroded contacts. Clean or replace the switch as necessary (Chapter 8).

2 Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over

1Starter motor clutch defective. Inspect and repair or replace

(Chapter 8).

2Damaged idler or starter gears. Inspect and replace the damaged parts (Chapter 2).

3Starter works but engine won’t turn over (seized)

Seized engine caused by one or more internally damaged components. Failure due to wear, abuse or lack of lubrication. Damage can include seized valves, valve lifters, camshaft, pistons, crankshaft, connecting rod bearings, or transmission gears or bearings. Refer to Chapter 2 for engine disassembly.

4 No fuel flow

1No fuel in tank.

2Fuel tap vacuum hose (if equipped) broken or disconnected.

3Tank cap air vent obstructed. Usually caused by dirt or water. Remove it and clean the cap vent hole.

4Inline fuel filter clogged. Replace the filter (Chapter 1).

5Electric fuel pump not working (if equipped). Test it according to the procedures in Chapter 8.

6Fuel line clogged. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through it.

7Inlet needle valve clogged. For both of the valves to be clogged, either a very bad batch of fuel with an unusual additive has been used, or some other foreign material has entered the tank. Many times after a machine has been stored for many months without running, the fuel turns to a varnish-like liquid and forms deposits on the inlet needle valves and jets. The carburetors should be removed and overhauled if draining the float chambers doesn’t solve the problem.

5 Engine flooded

1Fuel level too high. Check and adjust as described in Chapter 3.

2Inlet needle valve worn or stuck open. A piece of dirt, rust or other debris can cause the inlet needle to seat improperly, causing excess fuel to be admitted to the float bowl. In this case, the float chamber

should be cleaned and the needle and seat inspected. If the needle and seat are worn, then the leaking will persist and the parts should be replaced with new ones (Chapter 3).

3 Starting technique incorrect. Under normal circumstances (i.e., if all the carburetor functions are sound) the machine should start with little or no throttle. When the engine is cold, the choke should be operated and the engine started without opening the throttle. When the engine is at operating temperature, only a very slight amount of throttle should be necessary. If the engine is flooded, turn the fuel tap off and hold the throttle open while cranking the engine. This will allow additional air to reach the cylinders. Remember to turn the fuel tap back on after the engine starts.

6 No spark or weak spark

1Ignition switch Off.

2Engine kill switch turned to the Off position.

3Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery as necessary

(Chapter 8).

4Spark plug dirty, defective or worn out. Locate reason for fouled plug(s) using spark plug condition chart and follow the plug maintenance procedures in Chapter 1.

5Spark plug cap or secondary (HT) wiring faulty. Check condition. Replace either or both components if cracks or deterioration are evident (Chapter 4).

6Spark plug cap not making good contact. Make sure that the plug cap fits snugly over the plug end.

7Igniter defective. Check the unit, referring to Chapter 4 for details.

8Pickup coil(s) defective. Check the unit(s), referring to Chapter 4 for details.

9Ignition coil(s) defective. Check the coils, referring to Chapter 4.

10Ignition or kill switch shorted. This is usually caused by water, corrosion, damage or excessive wear. The switches can be disassembled and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner. If cleaning does not help, replace the switches (Chapter 8),

11Wiring shorted or broken between:

a)Ignition switch and engine kill switch (or blown fuse)

b)Igniter and engine kill switch

c)Igniter and ignition coil

d)Ignition coil and plug

e)Igniter and pickup coil(s)

Make sure that all wiring connections are clean, dry and tight. Look for chafed and broken wires (Chapters 4 and 8).

7 Compression low

1Spark plug loose. Remove the plug and inspect the threads. Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1).

2Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If a cylinder head is suspected of being loose, then there’s a chance that the gasket or head is damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head nuts and bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence (Chapter 2).

3Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1).

4Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is necessary

(Chapter 2).

5Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburetion problem that causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings. Top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).

6Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).

7Cylinder head gasket damaged. If one of the heads is allowed to become loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on a piston crown and combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient to restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).

8Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly tightened head nuts and bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).

9Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; the spring(s) must be replaced (Chapter 2).

10Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat (improper carburetion) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat (from carburetion or lubrication problems). The valves must be cleaned and/or replaced and the seats serviced if possible (Chapter 2).

8 Stalls after starting

1Improper choke action. Make sure the choke lever (XV535) or choke cable (all others) is getting a full stroke and staying in the out position.

2Ignition malfunction. See Chapter 4.

3Carburetor malfunction. See Chapter 3.

4Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for several months or more. Drain the tank and float bowls (Chapter 3).

5Intake air leak. Check for loose carburetor-to-intake joint connections, loose or missing vacuum gauge access port cap or hose, or loose carburetor top (Chapter 3).

6Engine idle speed incorrect. Turn throttle stop screw until the engine idles at the specified rpm (Chapter 1).

9 Rough idle

1Ignition malfunction. See Chapter 4.

2Idle speed incorrect. See Chapter 1.

3Carburetors not synchronized. Adjust carburetors with vacuum gauge or manometer set as described in Chapter 1.

4Carburetor malfunction. See Chapter 3.

5Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for several months or more. Drain the tank and float bowls (Chapter 3).

6Intake air leak. Check for loose carburetor-to-intake joint connections, loose or missing vacuum gauge access port cap or hose, or loose carburetor top (Chapter 3).

7Air cleaner clogged. Service or replace air filter element (Chapter 1).

Poor running at low speed

10 Spark weak

1Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery (Chapter 8).

2Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out. Refer to Chapter 1 for spark plug maintenance.

3Spark plug cap or high tension wiring defective. Refer to Chapters

1and 4 for details on the ignition system.

4Spark plug cap not making contact.

5Incorrect spark plug. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration. Check and install correct plugs listed in Chapter 1. A cold plug or one with a recessed firing electrode will not operate at low speeds without fouling.

6Igniter defective. See Chapter 4.

7Pickup coil(s) defective. See Chapter 4.

8Ignition coil(s) defective. See Chapter 4.

11 Fuel/air mixture incorrect

1Pilot screw(s) out of adjustment (Chapters 1 and 3).

2Pilot jet or air passage clogged. Remove and overhaul the carburetors (Chapter 3).

3Air bleed holes clogged. Remove carburetor and blow out all passages (Chapter 3).

4Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed or missing.

5Air cleaner-to-carburetor boot poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps and replace or repair defective parts.

6Fuel level too high or too low. Adjust the floats (Chapter 3).

7Fuel tank air vent obstructed. Make sure that the air vent passage in the filler cap is open.

8Carburetor intake joints loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubber boots.

12 Compression low

1Spark plug loose. Remove the plug and inspect the threads. Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1).

2Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head is suspected of being loose, then there’s a chance that the gasket and head are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time.

The head nuts and bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence (Chapter 2).

3Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1).

4Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is necessary

(Chapter 2).

5Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburetion problem that causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings. Top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).

6Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).

7Cylinder head gasket damaged. If a head is allowed to become loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient to restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).

8Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly tightened head nuts and bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).

9Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; the spring(s) must be replaced (Chapter 2).

10Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat (improper carburetion) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat (from carburetion, lubrication problems). The valves must be cleaned and/or replaced and the seats serviced if possible (Chapter 2).

13 Poor acceleration

1Carburetors leaking or dirty. Overhaul the carburetors (Chapter 3).

2Timing not advancing. The pickup coil(s) or the igniter may be defective. If so, they must be replaced with new ones, as they can’t be repaired.

3Carburetors not synchronized. Adjust them with a vacuum gauge set or manometer (Chapter 1).

4Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than that recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the engine.

5 Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake piston sealing boot, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary (Chapter 6).

Poor running or no power at high speed

14 Firing incorrect

1Air filter restricted. Clean or replace filter (Chapter 1).

2Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out. See Chapter 1 for spark plug maintenance.

3Spark plug cap or secondary (HT) wiring defective. See Chapters

1and 4 for details of the ignition system.

4Spark plug cap not in good contact. See Chapter 4.

5Incorrect spark plug. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration. Check and install correct plugs listed in Chapter 1. A cold plug or one with a recessed firing electrode will not operate at low speeds without fouling.

6Igniter defective. See Chapter 4.

7Ignition coil(s) defective. See Chapter 4. ,

15 Fuel/air mixture incorrect

1Main jet clogged. Dirt, water or other contaminants can clog the main jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the float bowl area, and the jets and carburetor orifices (Chapter 3).

2Main jet wrong size. The standard jetting is for sea level atmospheric pressure and oxygen content.

3Throttle shaft-to-carburetor body clearance excessive. Refer to Chapter 3 for inspection and part replacement procedures.

4Air bleed holes clogged. Remove and overhaul carburetors (Chapter 3).

5Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing.

6Air cleaner-to-carburetor boot poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps, and replace or repair defective parts.

7Fuel level too high or too low. Adjust the float(s) (Chapter 3).

8Fuel tank air vent obstructed. Make sure the air vent passage in the filler cap is open.

9Carburetor intake joints loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubber boots (Chapter 3).

10Fuel tap clogged. Remove the tap and clean it (Chapter 1).

11Fuel line clogged. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through it.

16 Compression low

1Spark plug loose. Remove the plug and inspect the threads. Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1).

2Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If a cylinder head is suspected of being loose, then there’s a chance that the gasket and head are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head nuts and bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct Sequence (Chapter 2).

3Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1).

4Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).

5Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburetion problem that causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings. Top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).

6Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is

necessary (Chapter 2).

7Cylinder head gasket damaged. If a head is allowed to become loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient to restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).

8Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly tightened head nuts and bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).

9Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; the spring(s) must be replaced (Chapter 2).

10Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat

(improper carburetion) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat (from carburetion or lubrication problems). The valves must be cleaned and/or replaced and the seats serviced if possible (Chapter 2).

17 Knocking or pinging

1Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up.

Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and decarbonized (Chapter 2).

2Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper grades of fuel can cause detonation. This causes the piston to rattle, thus the knocking or pinging sound. Drain old fuel and always use the recommended fuel grade.

3Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a glow plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat range plug (Chapter 1).

4Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinder to run hot, which leads to detonation. Clogged jets or an air leak can cause this imbalance. See Chapter 3.

18 Miscellaneous causes

1Throttle valve doesn’t open fully. Adjust the cable slack (Chapter 1).

2Clutch slipping. May be caused by a cable that is improperly adjusted or loose or worn clutch components. Refer to Chapter 2 for cable replacement and clutch overhaul procedures.

3Timing not advancing.

4Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than the one recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the engine.

5Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake piston sealing boot, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary.

Overheating

19 Engine overheats

1Engine oil level low. Check and add oil (Chapter 1).

2Wrong type of oil. If you’re not sure what type of oil is in the engine, drain it and fill with the correct type (Chapter 1).

3Air leak at carburetor intake joints. Check and tighten or replace as necessary (Chapter 3).

4Fuel level low. Check and adjust if necessary (Chapter 3).

5Worn oil pump or clogged oil passages. Replace pump or clean passages as necessary.

6Clogged external oil lines (if equipped). Remove and check for foreign material (see Chapter 2).

7Carbon build-up in combustion chambers. Use of a fuel additive

that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston crowns and chambers is the easiest way to remove the buildup. Otherwise, the cylinder heads will have to be removed and decarbonized (Chapter 2).

pressure. Replace cam, bushing or cylinder head. Abnormal wear could be caused by oil starvation at high rpm from low oil level or improper viscosity or type of oil (Chapter 1).

4 Crankshaft and/or bearings worn. Same problems as paragraph 3. Check and replace crankshaft and/or bearings (Chapter 2).

20 Firing incorrect

1Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out. See Chapter 1 for spark plug maintenance.

2Incorrect spark plug (see Chapter 1).

3Faulty ignition coil(s) (Chapter 4).

25 Miscellaneous causes

Modification to exhaust system. Most aftermarket exhaust systems cause the engine to run leaner, which make them run hotter. When installing an accessory exhaust system, always rejet the carburetors.

21 Fuel/air mixture incorrect

1Main jet clogged. Dirt, water and other contaminants can clog the main jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the float bowl area and the jets and carburetor orifices (Chapter 3).

2Main jet wrong size. The standard jetting is for sea level atmospheric pressure and oxygen content.

3Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing.

4Air cleaner-to-carburetor boot poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps and replace or repair.

5Fuel level too low. Adjust the float(s) (Chapter 3).

6Fuel tank air vent obstructed. Make sure that the air vent passage in the filler cap is open.

7Carburetor intake joints loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubber boots (Chapter 3).

22 Compression too high

1Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up. Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and decarbonized (Chapter 2).

2Improperly machined head surface or installation of incorrect gasket during engine assembly.

23 Engine load excessive

1 Clutch slipping. Can be caused by damaged, loose or worn clutch oonents. Refer to Chapter 2 for overhaul procedures.

Engine oil level too high. The addition of too much oil will cause pressurization of the crankcase and inefficient engine operation. Check

Specifications and drain to proper level (Chapter 1).

3Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than the one recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication system as well as cause drag on the engine.

4Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake piston sealing boot, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary.

24 Lubrication inadequate

1Engine oil level too low. Friction caused by intermittent lack of lubrication or from oil that is overworked can cause overheating. The oil provides a definite cooling function in the engine. Check the oil level (Chapter 1).

2Poor quality engine oil or incorrect viscosity or type. Oil is rated not only according to viscosity but also according to type. Some oils are not rated high enough for use in this engine. Check the Specifications section and change to the correct oil (Chapter 1).

3Camshaft or journals worn. Excessive wear causing drop in oil

Clutch problems

26 Clutch slipping

1Friction plates worn or warped. Overhaul the clutch assembly (Chapter 2).

2Steel plates worn or warped (Chapter 2).

3Clutch spring(s) broken or weak. Old or heat-damaged spring(s) (from slipping clutch) should be replaced with new ones (Chapter 2).

4Clutch release mechanism defective. Replace any defective parts (Chapter 2).

5Clutch boss or housing unevenly worn. This causes improper engagement of the plates. Replace the damaged or worn parts (Chapter 2).

27 Clutch not disengaging completely

1Clutch lever play excessive (see Chapter 1). Clutch cable improperly adjusted (see Chapter 1).

2Clutch plates warped or damaged. This will cause clutch drag, which in turn will cause the machine to creep. Overhaul the clutch assembly (Chapter 2).

3Usually caused by a sagged or broken spring(s). Check and replace the spring(s) (Chapter 2).

4Engine oil deteriorated. Old, thin, worn out oil will not provide proper lubrication for the discs, causing the clutch to drag. Replace the oil and filter (Chapter 1).

5Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a thicker oil than recommended in Chapter 1 can cause the plates to stick together, putting a drag on the engine. Change to the correct viscosity oil (Chapter 1).

6Clutch housing seized on shaft. Lack of lubrication, severe wear or damage can cause the housing to seize on the shaft. Overhaul of the clutch, and perhaps transmission, may be necessary to repair the damage (Chapter 2).

7Clutch release mechanism defective. Worn or damaged release mechanism parts can stick and fail to apply force to the pressure plate.

Overhaul the release mechanism (Chapter 2).

8Loose clutch boss nut. Causes housing and boss misalignment putting a drag on the engine. Engagement adjustment continually varies. Overhaul the clutch assembly (Chapter 2).

Gear shifting problems

28 Doesn’t go into gear or lever doesn’t return

1- Clutch not disengaging. See Section 27.

2 Shift fork(s) bent or seized. Often caused by dropping the machine or from lack of lubrication. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).

3Gear(s) stuck on shaft. Most often caused by a lack of lubrication or excessive wear in transmission bearings and bushings. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).

4Shift cam binding. Caused by lubrication failure or excessive wear. Replace the cam and bearing (Chapter 2).

5Shift lever return spring weak or broken (Chapter 2).

6Shift lever broken. Splines stripped out of lever or shaft, caused by allowing the lever to get loose or from dropping the machine. Replace necessary parts (Chapter 2).

7Shift mechanism pawl broken or worn. Full engagement and rotary movement of shift drum results. Replace shaft assembly (Chapter 2).

8Pawl spring broken. Allows pawl to float, causing sporadic shift operation. Replace spring (Chapter 2).

29 Jumps out of gear

1Shift fork(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).

2Gear groove(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).

3Gear dogs or dog slots worn or damaged. The gears should be inspected and replaced. No attempt should be made to service the worn parts.

30 Overshifts

1Pawl spring weak or broken (Chapter 2).

2Shift drum stopper lever not functioning (Chapter 2).

Abnormal engine noise

31 Knocking or pinging

1Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up. Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and decarbonized (Chapter 2).

2Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper fuel can cause detonation. This causes the pistons to rattle, thus the knocking or pinging sound. Drain the old fuel and always use the recommended grade fuel (Chapter 1).

3Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates that the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a glow plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat range plug (Chapter 1).

4Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinders to run hot and lead to detonationrClogged jets or an air leak can cause this imbalance. See Chapter 3.

32 Piston slap or rattling

1Cylinder-to-piston clearance excessive. Caused by improper assembly. Inspect and overhaul top end parts (Chapter 2).

2Connecting rod bent. Caused by over-revving, trying to start a badly flooded engine or from ingesting a foreign object into the combustion chamber. Replace the damaged parts (Chapter 2).

3Piston pin or piston pin bore worn or seized from wear or lack of lubrication. Replace damaged parts (Chapter 2).

4Piston ring(s) worn, broken or sticking. Overhaul the top end (Chapter 2).

5Piston seizure damage. Usually from lack of lubrication or overheating. Replace the pistons and bore the cylinders, as necessary (Chapter 2).

6 Connecting rod upper or lower end clearance excessive. Caused by excessive wear or lack of lubrication. Replace worn parts.

33 Valve noise

1Incorrect valve clearances. Adjust the clearances by referring to Chapter 1.

2Valve spring broken or weak. Check and replace weak valve springs (Chapter 2).

3Camshaft, bushing or cylinder head worn or damaged. Lack of lubrication at high rpm is usually the cause of damage. Insufficient oil or failure to change the oil at the recommended intervals are the chief causes.

34 Other noise

1Cylinder head gasket leaking.

2Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection. Caused by improper fit of pipe(s) or loose exhaust flange. All exhaust fasteners should be tightened evenly and carefully. Failure to do this will lead to a leak.

3Crankshaft runout excessive. Caused by a bent crankshaft (from over-revving) or damage from an upper cylinder component failure.

Can also be attributed to dropping the machine on either of the crankshaft ends.

4Engine mounting bolts or nuts loose. Tighten all engine mounting bolts and nuts to the specified torque (Chapter 2).

5Crankshaft bearings worn (Chapter 2).

6Camshaft chain tensioner(s) defective. Replace according to the procedure in Chapter 2.

7Camshaft chain, sprockets or guides worn (Chapter 2).

Abnormal driveline noise

35 Clutch noise

1Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive (Chapter 2).

2Loose or damaged clutch pressure plate and/or bolts (Chapter 2).

36 Transmission noise

1Bearings worn. Also includes the possibility that the shafts are worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).

2Gears worn or chipped (Chapter 2).

3Metal chips jammed in gear teeth. Probably pieces from a broken clutch, gear or shift mechanism that were picked up by the gears. This will cause early bearing failure (Chapter 2).

4Engine oil level too low. Causes a howl from transmission. Also affects engine power and clutch operation (Chapter 1).

37 Final drive noise

1Chain not adjusted properly (if equipped) (Chapter 1).

2Engine sprocket or rear sprocket loose (chain drive models). Tighten fasteners (Chapter 5).

3Sprocket(s) worn (chain drive models). Replace sprocket(s). (Chapter 5).

4Rear sprocket warped (chain drive models). Replace (Chapter 5).

5Wheel coupling (cush drive) worn (chain drive models). Replace coupling (Chapter 5).

6Final drive oil level low (shaft drive models).

7Final drive gear lash out of adjustment (shaft drive models).

8Final drive gears damaged or worn (shaft drive models).

Abnormal frame and suspension noise

38 Front end noise

1Low fluid level or improper viscosity oil in forks. This can sound like spurting and is usually accompanied by irregular fork action (Chapter 5).

2Spring weak or broken. Makes a clicking or scraping sound. Fork oil, when drained, will have a lot of metal particles in it (Chapter 5).

3Steering head bearings loose or damaged. Clicks when braking.

Check and adjust or replace as necessary (Chapter 5).

4Fork triple clamps loose. Make sure all triple clamp pinch bolts are tight (Chapter 5).

5Fork tube bent. Good possibility if machine has been dropped.

Replace tube with a new one (Chapter 5).

6Front axle or axle clamp bolt loose. Tighten them to the specified torque (Chapter 6).

39 Shock absorber noise

1Fluid level incorrect. Indicates a leak caused by defective seal.

Shock will be covered with oil. Replace shock (Chapter 5).

2Defective shock absorber with internal damage. This is in the body of the shock and can’t be remedied. The shock must be replaced with a new one (Chapter 5).

3Bent or damaged shock body. Replace the shock with a new one

(Chapter 5).

40 Brake noise

1Squeal caused by pad shim not installed or positioned correctly (Chapter 6).

2Squeal caused by dust on brake pads. Usually found in combination with glazed pads. Clean using brake cleaning solvent

(Chapter 6).

3Contamination of brake pads. Oil, brake fluid or dirt causing brake to chatter or squeal. Clean or replace pads (Chapter 6).

4Pads glazed. Caused by excessive heat from prolonged use or from contamination. Do not use sandpaper, emery cloth, carborundum cloth or any other abrasive to roughen the pad surfaces as abrasives will stay in the pad material and damage the disc. A very fine flat file can be used, but pad replacement is suggested as a cure (Chapter 6).

5Disc warped. Can cause a chattering, clicking or intermittent squeal. Usually accompanied by a pulsating lever and uneven braking.

Replace the disc (Chapter 6).

6Drum brake linings worn or contaminated. Can cause scraping or squealing. Replace the shoes (Chapter 6).

7Drum brake linings warped or worn unevenly. Can cause chattering. Replace the linings (Chapter 6).

8Brake drum out of round. Can cause chattering. Replace brake drum (Chapter 6).

9Loose or worn wheel bearings. Check and replace as needed (Chapter 6).

Oil level indicator light comes on

41 Engine lubrication system

1Yamaha XV700 through 1100 models use an oil level light rather than an oil pressure light.

2Engine oil level low. Inspect for leak or other problem causing low oil level and add recommended oil (Chapters 1 and 2).

42 Electrical system

1Oil level switch defective. Check the switch according to the procedure in Chapter 8. Replace it if it’s defective.

2Oil level indicator light circuit defective. Check for pinched, shorted, disconnected or damaged wiring (Chapter 8).

Excessive exhaust smoke

43 White smoke

1Piston oil ring worn. The ring may be broken or damaged, causing oil from the crankcase to be pulled past the piston into the combustion chamber. Replace the rings with new ones (Chapter 2).

2Cylinders worn, cracked, or scored. Caused by overheating or oil starvation. If worn or scored, the cylinders will have to be rebored and new pistons installed. If cracked, the cylinder block will have to be replaced (see Chapter 2).

3Valve oil seal damaged or worn. Replace oil seals with new ones (Chapter 2).

4Valve guide worn. Perform a complete valve job (Chapter 2).

5Engine oil level too high, which causes the oil to be forced past the rings. Drain oil to the proper level (Chapter 1).

6Head gasket broken between oil return and cylinder. Causes oil to be pulled into the combustion chamber. Replace the head gasket and check the head for warpage (Chapter 2).

7Abnormal crankcase pressurization, which forces oil past the rings. Clogged breather or hoses usually the cause (Chapter 2).

44 Black smoke

1Air cleaner clogged. Clean or replace the element (Chapter 1).

2Main jet too large or loose. Compare the jet size to the Specifications (Chapter 3).

3Choke stuck, causing fuel to be pulled through choke circuit (Chapter 3).

4Fuel level too high. Check and adjust the float level as necessary (Chapter 3).

5Inlet needle held off needle seat. Clean the float bowls and fuel line and replace the needles and seats if necessary (Chapter 3).

45 Brown smoke

1Main jet too small or clogged. Lean condition caused by wrong size main jet or by a restricted orifice. Clean float bowl and jets and compare jet size to Specifications (Chapter 3).

2Fuel flow insufficient. Fuel inlet needle valve stuck closed due to chemical reaction with old fuel. Float level incorrect. Restricted fuel line. Clean line and float bowl and adjust floats if necessary.

3Carburetor intake manifolds loose (Chapter 3).

4Air cleaner poorly sealed or not installed (Chapter 1).

Poor handling or stability

46 Handlebar hard to turn

1Steering stem locknut too tight (Chapter 5).

2Bearings damaged. Roughness can be felt as the bars are turned from side-to-side. Replace bearings and races (Chapter 5).

3. Races dented or worn. Denting results from wear in only one position (e.g., straight ahead), from a collision or hitting a pothole or from dropping the machine. Replace races and bearings (Chapter 5).

4 Steering stem lubrication inadequate. Causes are grease getting

hard from age or being washed out by high pressure car washes.

Disassemble steering head and repack bearings (Chapter 5).

5Steering stem bent. Caused by a collision, hitting a pothole or by dropping the machine. Replace damaged part. Don’t try to straighten the steering stem (Chapter 5).

6Front tire air pressure too low (Chapter 1).

47 Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively

1Tires worn or out of balance (Chapter 1 or 6).

2Swingarm bearings worn. Replace worn bearings by referring to

Chapter 6.

3Rim(s) warped or damaged. Inspect wheels for runout (Chapter 6).

4Wheel bearings worn. Worn front or rear wheel bearings can cause poor tracking. Worn front bearings will cause wobble (Chapter 6).

5Handlebar clamp bolts or bracket nuts loose (Chapter 5).

6Steering stem or fork clamps loose. Tighten them to the specified torque (Chapter 5).

7Motor mount bolts loose. Will cause excessive vibration with increased engine rpm (Chapter 2).

4Contaminated pads. Caused by contamination with oil, grease, brake fluid, etc. Clean or replace pads. Clean disc thoroughly with brake cleaner (Chapter 6).

5Brake fluid deteriorated. Fluid is old or contaminated. Drain system, replenish with new fluid and bleed the system (Chapter 6).

6Master cylinder internal parts worn or damaged causing fluid to bypass (Chapter 6).

7Master cylinder bore scratched by foreign material or broken spring. Repair or replace master cylinder (Chapter 6).

8Disc warped. Replace disc (Chapter 6).

51 Brake lever or pedal pulsates

1Disc warped. Replace disc (Chapter 6).

2Axle bent. Replace axle (Chapter 5).

3Brake caliper bolts loose (Chapter 6).

4Brake caliper shafts damaged or sticking, causing caliper to bind.

Lube the shafts or replace them if they are corroded or bent (Chapter 6).

5Wheel warped or otherwise damaged (Chapter 6).

6Wheel bearings damaged or worn (Chapter 6).

7Brake drum out of round. Replace brake drum (Chapter 6).

48 Handlebar pulls to one side

1Frame bent. Definitely suspect this if the machine has been dropped. May or may not be accompanied by cracking near the bend. Replace the frame (Chapter 5).

2Wheel out of alignment. Caused by improper location of axle spacers or from bent steering stem or frame (Chapter 5).

3Swingarm bent or twisted. Caused by age (metal fatigue) or impact damage. Replace the swingarm (Chapter 5).

4Steering stem bent. Caused by impact damage or by dropping the motorcycle. Replace the steering stem (Chapter 5).

5Fork leg bent. Disassemble the forks and replace the damaged parts (Chapter 5).

6Fork oil level uneven. Check and add or drain as necessary

(Chapter 5).

49 Poor shock absorbing qualities

1Too hard:

a)Fork oil level excessive (Chapter 5).

b)Fork oil viscosity too high. Use a lighter oil (see the Specifications in Chapter 1).

c)Fork tube bent. Causes a harsh, sticking feeling (Chapter 5).

d)Shock shaft or body bent or damaged (Chapter 5).

e)Fork internal damage (Chapter 5).

f)Shock internal damage.

g)Tire pressure too high (Chapters 1 and 6).

2Too soft:

a)Fork or shock oil insufficient and/or leaking (Chapter 5).

b)Fork oil level too low (Chapter 5).

c)Fork oil viscosity too light (Chapter 5).

d)Fork springs weak or broken (Chapter 5).

Braking problems

50 Front brakes are spongy, don’t hold

1 Air in brake line. Caused by inattention to master cylinder fluid level or by leakage. Locate problem and bleed brakes (Chapter 6).

2Pad or disc worn (Chapters 1 and 6).

3Brake fluid leak. See paragraph 1.

52 Brakes drag

1Master cylinder piston seized. Caused by wear or damage to piston or cylinder bore (Chapter 6).

2Lever balky or stuck. Check pivot and lubricate (Chapter 6).

3Brake caliper binds. Caused by inadequate lubrication or damage to caliper shafts (Chapter 6).

4Brake caliper piston seized in bore. Caused by wear or ingestion of dirt past deteriorated seal (Chapter 6),

5Brake pad damaged. Pad material separated from backing plate. Usually caused by faulty manufacturing process or from contact with chemicals. Replace pads (Chapter 6).

6Pads improperly installed (Chapter 6).

7Rear brake pedal free play insufficient (Chapter 1).

8Rear brake springs weak. Replace brake springs (Chapter 6).

Electrical problems

53 Battery dead or weak

1Battery faulty. Caused by sulfated plates which are shorted through sedimentation or low electrolyte level. Also, broken battery terminal making only occasional contact (Chapter 8).

2Battery cables making poor contact (Chapter 8).

3Load excessive. Caused by addition of high wattage lights or other electrical accessories.

4Ignition switch defective. Switch either grounds/earths internally or fails to shut off system. Replace the switch (Chapter 8).

5Regulator/rectifier defective (Chapter 8).

6Stator coil open or shorted (Chapter 8).

7Wiring faulty. Wiring grounded or connections loose in ignition, charging or lighting circuits (Chapter 8).

54 Battery overcharged

1Regulator/rectifier defective. Overcharging is noticed when battery gets excessively warm or boils over (Chapter 8).

2Battery defective. Replace battery with a new one (Chapter 8).

3Battery amperage too low, wrong type or size. Install manufacturer’s specified amp-hour battery to handle charging load (Chapter 8).

1-1

Chapter 1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Contents

Section

Air filter element — servicing

14

Battery electrolyte level/specific gravity — check

4

Brake lever and pedal position and play — check and adjustment.

7

Brake pads and shoes — wear check

5

Brake system — general check

6

Carburetor synchronization — check and adjustment

20

Clutch — check and adjustment

10

Crankcase ventilation system — inspection

21

Cylinder compression — check

15

Drive chain and sprockets (chain drive models) — check,

adjustment and lubrication

11

Engine oil/filter — change

13

Exhaust system — check

22

Fasteners — check

24

Final drive oil (shaft drive models) — check and change

12

Section

Fluid levels — check

3

Fuel system — check and filter cleaning or replacement

25

Idle speed — check and adjustment

19

Introduction to tune-up and routine maintenance

2

Lubrication — general

17

Shift linkage adjustment

27

Spark plugs — replacement

16

Steering head bearings — check, adjustment and lubrication

23

Suspension adjustments

28

Suspension — check

26

Throttle and choke operation/grip freeplay — check

. and adjustment

9

Tires/wheels — general check

8

Valve clearances — check and adjustment

18

Yamaha XV Routine maintenance intervals

1

1-2

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Specifications

XV535

Engine

Spark plugs Type

Gap

Valve clearances (COLD engine) Intake

Exhaust Engine idle speed

Cylinder compression pressure (at sea level)

Standard Maximum…

Minimum

Maximum difference between cylinders Carburetor synchronization

Vacuum at idle speed

Maximum vacuum difference between cylinders

Cylinder numbering (from rear to front of bike)…

Miscellaneous

Brake pedal position..

.

Shift pedal position

Freeplay adjustments

Throttle grip

Clutch lever

Front brake lever

Rear brake pedal

….

Battery electrolyte specific gravity

Minimum tire tread depth*

Tire pressures (cold)

Front

1987 and 1988 US, all UK models…

1989 and later US models

Rear

Up to 90 kg (198 lbs)

1987 and 1988 US, all UK models

1989 and later US models

.

Above 90 kg (198 lbs) or high speed riding

Torque specifications

Oil drain plug

Oil filter cover bolts

Spark plugs

Steering head bearing ring nuts

Initial torque

Final torque

Steering stem bolt

Valve adjuster locknuts

.

Rocker cover bolts

Final drive filler and drain plugs

Recommended lubricants and fluids

Fuel type

US

.

UK

Fuel capacity

1987 and 1988 models

Total………

Reserve

1989 and later models

Total

.

Reserve..

Engine/transmission oil

Type

NGK BP7ES or ND W22EP-U

0.7 to 0.8 mm (0.028 to 0.032 inch)

0.07to 0.12 mm (0.003 to 0.005 inch)

0.12to 0.17 mm (0.005 to 0.007 inch) 1150 to 1250 rpm

10.75Bars (156 psi)

11.78Bars (171 psi)

9.78Bars (142 psi)

0.96Bars (14 psi)

230 mm Hg (9.06 inch Hg)

10 mm Hg (0.39 inch Hg)

1-2

38 mm (1.5 inch) above the top of the footpeg

50 to 60 mm (2.0 to 2.4 inches) above the top of the footpeg

2 to 5 mm (0.08 to 0.20 inch)

2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch)

2 to 5 mm (0.08 to 0.20 inch)

20 to 30 mm (0.8 to 1.2 inches) 1.280 at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 1 mm (0.04 inch)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

1.99Bars (29 psi)

2.2Bars (32 psi)

2.27Bars (33 psi)

2.48bars (36 psi)

43 Nm (31 ft-lbs)

10Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

12.5Nm (9 ft-lbs)

38 Nm (27 ft-lbs)

10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

54 Nm (39 ft-lbs)

14 Nm (10 ft-lbs)

10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

23 Nm (17 ft-lbs)

Unleaded

Regular

8.6 liters (2.3 US gal, 1.9 Imp gal)

2.0liters (0.5 US gal, 0.4 Imp gal)

13.5liters (3.6 US gal, 3.0 Imp gal)

2.5liters (0.7 US gal, 0.5 Imp gal)

API grade SE or SF

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-3

Viscosity

Consistently below 15 degrees C (60 degrees F) Consistently above 5 degrees C (40 degrees F)

Capacity

With filter change

Oil change only

Brake fluid

..

Final gear

Type

Capacity

Wheel bearings

Swingarm pivot bearings

.

Cables and lever pivots

Sidestand/centerstand pivots

Brake pedal/shift lever pivots

Throttle grip

SAE 10W30

SAE 20W40

2.8liters (3.0 US qt, 5.0 Imperial pt)

2.6liters (2.7 US qt, 4.6 Imperial pt)

DOT 4

SAE 80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil 0.19 liters (0.2 US qt, 0.34 Imp pt

Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease

Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil

Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant

‘In the UK, tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/4 of the tread breadth all the way around the tire, with no bald patches.

1981 through 1983 XV750 through 1000 models and all TR1 Engine

Spark plugs

Type

NGK BP7ES or ND W22EP-U

Gap…

0.7 to 0.8 mm (0.028 to 0.032 inch)

Valve clearances (COLD engine)

Intake

0.10 mm (0.004 inch)

Exhaust

0.15 mm (0.006 inch)

Engine idle speed

..

950 to 1050 rpm

Cylinder compression pressure (at sea level)

XV750 and TR1

Not specified

XV920

.

9.30 Bars (135 psi) at 300 rpm

Carburetor synchronization

Vacuum at idle speed

» 180 +/-10 mm Hg (7.09 +/- 0.4 inch Hg)

Maximum vacuum difference between cylinders

10 mm Hg (0.4 inch Hg)

Cylinder numbering (from rear to front of bike)

1-2

Miscellaneous

Brake pedal position

Not specified

Shift pedal position

Not specified

Freeplay adjustments

Throttle grip

Not specified

Clutch lever

2 to 3

mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch)

Front brake lever

5 to 8

mm (0.20 to 0.30 inch)

Rear brake pedal

20 to 30 mm (0.8 to 1.2 inches)

Battery electrolyte specific gravity

1.280 at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F)

Minimum tire tread depth*

1 mm (0.04 inch)

Tire pressures (cold)

XV750, XV920 K and MK

Front

Up to 90 kg (198 lbs) load

1.79

Bars (26 psi)

90 to 160 kg (198 to 353 lbs) load

1.93 Bars (28 psi)

High speed riding

2.20 Bars (32 psi)

Rear

Up to 90 kg (198 lbs)

1.93

Bars (28 psi)

90 to 160 kg (198 to 353 lbs)

2.48

bars (36 psi)

High speed riding

2.20 Bars (32 psi)

XV920J

F r o n t ‘

Up to 90 kg (198 lbs) load

1.79

Bars (26 psi)

90 to 213 kg (198 to 470 lbs) load

1.93 Bars (28 psi)

High speed riding

2.20 Bars (32 psi)

Rear

Up to 90 kg (198 lbs)

1.93

Bars (28 psi)

90 to 213 kg (198 to 470 lbs)

2.76

bars (40 psi)

High speed riding

2.48 Bars (36 psi)

1-4

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Tire pressures (cold) (continued)

XV920RH and RJ

Front

Up to 90 kg (198 lbs) load

90 to 213 kg (198 to 470 lbs) load High speed riding

Rear

Up to 90 kg (198 lbs)

90 to 213 kg (198 to 470 lbs)

High speed riding

TR1 (XV1000 chain drive) models

Front

Up to 90 kg (198 lbs) load

.

90 to 201 kg (198 to 443 lbs) load

High speed riding

.

Rear

Up to 90 kg (198 lbs)

.

90 to 201 kg (198 to 443 lbs)

High speed riding

Torque specifications

Oil drain plug

Oil filter cover bolts

Spark plugs

Steering head bearing ring nuts

Initial torque

Final torque

Steering stem bolt

XV920J, K, MK

All others

Valve adjuster locknuts

Rocker cover bolts

Final drive filler and drain plugs

Recommended lubricants and fluids

Engine/transmission oil Type

Viscosity

Consistently below 15 degrees C (60 degrees F)

Consistently above 5 degrees C (40 degrees F)

Capacity

With filter change

Oil change only Brake fluid

Final gear Type Capacity

Wheel bearings

Swingarm pivot bearings Cables and lever pivots Sidestand/centerstand pivots Brake pedal/shift lever pivots

Throttle grip

1.79Bars (26 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

2.20bars (32 psi)

2.20Bars (32 psi)

1.79Bars (26 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

2.20bars (32 psi)

2.20Bars (32 psi)

43 Nm (31 ft-lbs)

10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

14 Nm (10 ft-lbs)

25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) Back off 1/4 turn

54 Nm (39 ft-lbs)

50 Nm (36 ft-lbs)

27 Nm (19 ft-lbs)

10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

23 Nm (17 ft-lbs)

API grade SE or SF

SAE 10W30

SAE 20W40

3.1liters (3.3 US qt, 5.46 Imperial pt)

3.0liters (3.2 US qt, 5.28 Imperial pt) DOT 4

SAE 80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil

0.20 liters (6.76 US fl oz, 7.04 Imp fl oz

Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease

Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil

Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil

Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant

*ln the UK, tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/4 of the tread breadth all the way around the tire, with no bald patches.

1984 and later models Engine

Spark plugs

Type

NGK BP7ES or ND W22EP-U

Gap

0.7 to 0.8 mm (0.028 to 0.032 inch)

Valve clearances (COLD engine)

Intake

0.07 to 0.12 mm (0.003 to 0.005

inch)

Exhaust

.

0.12 to 0.17 mm (0.005 to 0.007

inch)

Engine idle speed

.

950 to 1050 rpm

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-5

Cylinder compression pressure (at sea level)

Standard

Maximum

Minimum

.

Maximum difference between cylinders

Carburetor synchronization

Vacuum at idle speed

Maximum vacuum difference between cylinders

Engine idle speed

Cylinder numbering (from rear to front of bike)

Miscellaneous

Brake pedal position

Shift pedal position

.

Freeplay adjustments

Throttle grip

Clutch lever

Front brake lever

Rear brake pedal

Battery electrolyte specific gravity

Minimum tire tread depth*

Tire pressures (cold)

Front

Up to 90 kg (198 lbs) load

90 kg to maximum load

High speed riding

R e a r

Up to 90 kg (198 lbs)

90 to 160 kg (198 to 353 lbs)

160 kg (353 lbs) to maximum load

High speed riding

Torque specifications

Oil drain plug

Oil filter cover bolts

Spark plugs

Steering head bearing ring nuts

Initial torque

Final torque

Steering stem nut…

Valve adjuster locknuts

..

Rocker cover bolts

Final drive filler and drain plugs…….

Recommended lubricants and fluids

Engine/transmission oil

Type

Viscosity

Consistently below 15 degrees C (60 degrees F)

Consistently above 5 degrees C (40 degrees F)

Capacity

With filter change

Oil change only

Brake

fluid

Finalgear

Type

Capacity

Wheel bearings

Swingarm pivot bearings

Cables

and lever pivots

Sidestand/centerstand pivots

Brake

pedal/shift lever pivots

.

Throttle grip

10.75Bars (156 psi)

11.78Bars (171 psi)

8.8Bars (128 psi) 0.96 Bars (14 psi)

180 +/-10 mm Hg (7.09 +/- 0.4 inch Hg)

10 mm Hg (0.4 inch Hg)

950 to 1050 rpm

1-2

20 mm (0.8 inch) above bottom of footpeg

Not specified

Not specified

2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch)

5 to 8 mm (0.20 to 0.30 inch)

20 to 30 mm (0.8 to 1.2 inch)

1.280 at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 1 mm (0.04 inch)

1.79Bars (26 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

2.20Bars (32 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

2.48bars (36 psi)

2.76Bars (40 psi)

2.48Bars (36 psi)

43 Nm (31 ft-lbs)

10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)

50 Nm (36 ft-lbs)

3 Nm (2.2 ft-lbs)

110 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

27 Nm (19 ft-lbs)

10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

23 Nm (17 ft-lbs)

API grade SE or SF

SAE 10W30

SAE 20W40

3.1liters (3.3 US qt, 5.46 Imperial pt)

3.0liters (3.2 US qt, 5.28 Imperial pt) DOT 4

SAE 80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil

0.20 liters (6.76 US fl oz, 7.04 Imp fl oz

Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil

Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant

*In the UK, tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/4 of the tread breadth all the way around the tire, with no bald patches.

1-6

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1 Yamaha XV Routine maintenance intervals

Routine maintenance intervals

Note: The pre-ride inspection outlined in the owner’s manual covers checks and maintenance that should be carried out on a daily basis. It’s condensed and included here to remind you of its importance. Always perform the pre-ride inspection at every maintenance interval (in addition to the procedures listed). The intervals listed below are the shortest intervals recommended by the manufacturer for each particular operation during the model years covered in this manual. Your owner’s manual may have different intervals for your model.

Daily or before riding

Check the engine oil level

Check the fuel level and inspect for leaks

Check the operation of both brakes — also check the front brake fluid level and look for leakage

Check the tires for damage, the presence of foreign objects and correct air pressure

Check the throttle for smooth operation and correct freeplay

Check the operation of the clutch — make sure the freeplay is correct

Make sure the steering operates smoothly, without looseness and without binding

Check for proper operation of the headlight, taillight, brake light, turn signals, indicator lights and horn

Make sure the sidestand (and centerstand, if equipped) returns to its fully up position and stays there under spring pressure

Make sure the engine kill switch works properly

Adjust the valve clearances Clean and gap the spark plugs

Lubricate the clutch cable, throttle cable(s) and speedometer cable

Check/adjust throttle cable free play Check/adjust the idle speed

Check/adjust the carburetor synchronization Check the front brake fluid level

Adjust front brake free play Check the brake disc(s) and pads

Check the rear brake shoes for wear Check/adjust the brake pedal position Check the operation of the brake light Lubricate the clutch and brake lever pivots Lubricate the shift/brake pedal pivots and the

sidestand/centerstand pivots Check the steering

Check the front forks for proper operation and fluid leaks Check the tires, wheels and wheel bearings

Check the battery electrolyte level and specific gravity; inspect the breather tube

Check the exhaust system for leaks and check the tightness of the fasteners

Check the cleanliness of the fuel system and the condition of the fuel lines and vacuum hoses

Inspect the crankcase ventilation system Check the operation of the sidestand switch Check and adjust clutch cable free play

After the initial 600 miles/1000 km

Perform all of the daily checks plus:

Check/adjust the carburetor synchronization Adjust the valve clearances

Change the final gear oil (if equipped) Check/adjust the drive chain slack (if equipped) Change the engine oil and oil filter

Check the tightness of all fasteners Check the steering

Check/adjust clutch freeplay Check the front brake fluid level Inspect brake pads and shoes

Check/adjust the brake pedal position Check the operation of the brake light Check the operation of the sidestand switch

Lubricate the clutch cable, throttle cable(s) and speedometer cable

Every 300 miles/500 km

Check/adjust the drive chain slack (if equipped)

Every 4000 miles/6000 km or 6 months

Change the engine oil

Clean the air filter element and replace it if necessary

Every 12,000 km/8,000 miles or 12 months

All of the items above plus:

Change the engine oil and oil filter

Replace the spark plugs

Check final gear oil level (if equipped)

Every 18,000 km/12,000 miles

Repack the swingarm bearings

Every 24,000 km/15,000 miles or two years

Change the final gear oil (if equipped)

Clean and lubricate the steering head bearings

Every 50,000 km/30,000 miles

Replace the drive chain (if equipped)

Every two years

Replace the brake master cylinder and caliper seals and change the brake fluid

Every four years

Replace the brake hose(s)

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-7

2.3a Decals at various locations on the

2.3b . . . special precautions for air-

2.3c . . . and drive chain

motorcycle include such information as

adjustable front forks . . .

service procedures

tire pressures . . .

3.3a Check the oil level in the window (this is an XV535)…

2 Introduction to tune-up and routine maintenance

Refer to illustrations 2.3a, 2.3b and 2.3c

This Chapter covers in detail the checks and procedures necessary for the tune-up and routine maintenance of your motorcycle. Section 1 includes the routine maintenance schedule, which is designed to keep the machine in proper running condition and prevent possible problems. The remaining Sections contain detailed procedures for carrying out the items listed on the maintenance schedule, as well as additional maintenance information designed to increase reliability.

Since routine maintenance plays such an important role in the safe and efficient operation of your motorcycle, it is presented here as a comprehensive check list. For the rider who does all his own maintenance, these lists outline the procedures and checks that should be done on a routine basis.

Maintenance information is printed on labels attached to the motorcycle (see illustrations). If the information on the labels differs from that included here, use the information on the label.

Deciding where to start or plug into the routine maintenance schedule depends on several factors. If you have a motorcycle whose warranty has recently expired, and if it has been maintained according to the warranty standards, you may want to pick up routine maintenance as it coincides with the next mileage or calendar interval. If you have owned the machine for some time but have never performed any maintenance on it, then you may want to start at the nearest interval and include some additional procedures to ensure that nothing important is overlooked. If you have just had a major engine overhaul, then you may want to start the maintenance routine from the beginning. If you have a used machine and have no knowledge of its

3.3b . . . and this is an XV920 (other 700 through 1100 models similar)

history or maintenance record, you may desire to combine all the checks into one large service initially and then settle into the maintenance schedule prescribed.

The Sections which outline the inspection and maintenance procedures are written as step-by-step comprehensive guides to the performance of the work. They explain in detail each of the routine inspections and maintenance procedures on the check list. References to additional information in applicable Chapters is also included and should not be overlooked.

Before beginning any maintenance or repair, the machine should be cleaned thoroughly, especially around the oil filter, spark plugs, cylinder head covers, side covers, carburetors, etc. Cleaning will help ensure that dirt does not contaminate the engine and will allow you to detect wear and damage that could otherwise easily go unnoticed.

3 Fluid levels — check

Engine oil

Refer to illustrations 3.3a, 3.3b, 3.4a and 3.4b

1Run the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Caution: Do not run the engine in an enclosed space such as a garage or shop.

2Stop the engine and allow the machine to sit undisturbed for about five minutes.

3Hold the motorcycle level. With the engine off, check the oil level in the window located at the lower part of the right crankcase cover. The oil level should be between the Maximum and Minimum level marks next to the window (see illustrations).

1-8

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

3.4a Remove the filler plug (arrow)…

3.9 To add fluid, remove the cover screws (arrows) and lift off the cover and diaphragm

3.4b . . . and add oil to bring up the level in the window

4.4a Unclip the fuel hoses and move them aside . . .

3.7 Brake fluid should be above the Lower line in the window

4.4b . . . then remove the securing strap and lift off the battery cover

4 If the level is below the Minimum mark, remove the oil filler cap from the left side of the crankcase and add enough oil of the recommended grade and type to bring the level up to the Maximum mark (see illustrations). Do not overfill.

evenly, but do not overtighten them.

12Wipe any spilled fluid off the reservoir body and reposition and tighten the brake lever and master cylinder assembly if it was moved.

13If the brake fluid level was low, inspect the brake system for leaks.

Brakefluid

Refer to illustrations 3.7 and 3.9

5In order to ensure proper operation of the hydraulic disc brake, the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir must be properly maintained,

6With the motorcycle held level, turn the handlebars until the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible.

7Look closely at the inspection window in the master cylinder reservoir. Make sure that the fluid level is above the Lower mark on the reservoir (see illustration).

8If the level is low, the fluid must be replenished. Before removing the master cylinder cover, cover the fuel tank to protect it from brake fluid spills (which will damage the paint) and remove all dust and dirt from the area around the cover.

9To replace brake fluid, remove the screws (see illustration) and lift off the cover and rubber diaphragm. Note: Do not operate the front brake with the cover removed.

10 Add new, clean brake fluid of the recommended type until the level is above the inspection window. Do not mix different brands of brake fluid in the reservoir, as they may not be compatible.

11 Reinstall the rubber diaphragm and the cover. Tighten the screws

4 Battery electrolyte level/specific gravity — check

Refer to illustrations 4.4a, 4.4b, 4.5a, 4.5b, 4.5c and 4.8

Caution: Be extremely careful when handling or working around the battery. The electrolyte is very caustic and an explosive gas (hydrogen) is given off when the battery is charging. Note: The first Steps describe battery removal. If the electrolyte level is known to be sufficient it won’t be necessary to remove the battery.

1This procedure applies to batteries that have removable filler caps, which can be removed to add water to the battery. If the original equipment battery has been replaced by a sealed maintenance-free battery, the electrolyte can’t be topped up.

2Remove the seat (see Chapter 7).

3If necessary for access to remove the battery, remove the side covers (see Chapter 7).

4If you’re working on an XV535 equipped with an upper fuel tank, detach the fuel hoses from their clips and move them aside. Remove the securing strap and battery cover (see illustrations).

5Remove the screws securing the battery cables tothe battery terminals (remove the negative cable first, positive cable last) (see

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-9

4.5a Pull back the plastic caps (arrows)

4.5b Lift the battery out

4.5c The electrolyte level should be

and undo the terminal screws (negative

between the marks on the battery case

first, then positive)

4.8 Check the specific gravity with a hydrometer

illustration). Remove the battery securing strap if you haven’t already done so and pull the battery straight up to remove it (see illustration).

The electrolyte level will now be visible through the translucent battery case — it should be between the Upper and Lower level marks (see illustration).

6 If the electrolyte is low, remove the cell caps and fill each cell to the upper level mark with distilled water. Note: Some models have a long-life batteryequippedwithonlyonefiilerplug.Donotusetapwater

(except in an emergency), and do not overfill. The cell holes are quite small, so it may help to use a plastic squeeze bottle with a small spout to add the water. If the level is within the marks on the case, additional water is not necessary.

7 Next, check the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell with a small hydrometer made especially for motorcycle batteries. These are available from most dealer parts departments or motorcycle accessory stores.

8 Remove the caps, draw some electrolyte from the first cell into the hydrometer (see illustration) and note the specific gravity. Compare the reading to the Specifications listed in this Chapter. Note:

Add 0.004 points to the reading for every 10-degrees F above 20degrees C (68-degrees F) — subtract 0.004 points from the reading for every 10-degrees below 20-degrees C (68-degrees F). Return the electrolyte to the appropriate cell and repeat the check for the remaining cells. When the check is complete, rinse the hydrometer thoroughly with clean water.

9If the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell is as specified, the battery is in good condition and is apparently being charged by the machine’s charging system.

10If the spepific gravity is low, the battery is not fully charged. This may be due to corroded battery terminals, a dirty battery case, a

5.2 The caliper on chain drive models has a pad inspection window

malfunctioning charging system, or loose or corroded wiring connections. On the other hand, it may be that the battery is worn out, especially if the machine is old, or that infrequent use of the motorcycle prevents normal charging from taking place.

11Be sure to correct any problems and charge the battery if necessary. Refer to Chapter 8 for additional battery maintenance and charging procedures.

12On models without a battery cover, secure the battery with the strap (see illustration 4.5a). Install the battery cell caps, tightening them securely. Reconnect the cables to the battery, attaching the positive cable first and the negative cable last. Make sure to install the insulating boot over the terminals.

13Install the battery cover (if equipped) and secure it with the strap.

14Install all components removed for access. Be very careful not to pinch or otherwise restrict the battery vent tube, as the battery may build up enough internal pressure during normal charging system operation to explode.

5 Brake pads and shoes — wear check

Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.3 and 5.6

1The front brake pads should be checked at the recommended intervals and replaced with new ones when worn beyond the limit listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Always replace pads in complete sets; if the front brake has two calipers, replace all foir

at the same time.

2To check the front brake pads on chain drive models, flic

the inspection window on the back of the caliper (see illustration) f the pads are worn nearly to the red line, replace them (see Chac:

1-10

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

5.3 If the raised corner of the pad

5.6 If the pointer is near the end of its

6.6a Hold the switch so it won’t rotate

backing metal (arrow) is close to the

travel with the brake pedal depressed,

and rotate the nut (arrow) (this

disc, the pad is worn and the full set of

replace the shoes

is an XV535)

pads must be replaced (pad removed

for clarity)

3On models so equipped, remove the pad cover (see illustration 2.9a in Chapter 6, Part B). Reach up and operate the brake lever while you look at the back of the caliper. If the pad wear indicator is close to the disc (see illustration), the pads are worn excessively and must be replaced with new ones (see Chapter 6).

4On XV535 models, remove the rubber plug from the back of the caliper. Look through the hole and inspect the pads. If the pads are

worn near the wear limit listed in the Chapter 6 Specifications, replace them.

5On models without an inspection window or a pad cover, squeeze the front brake lever and look at the edges of the pads. If the pads are worn to near the wear limit listed in the Chapter 6 Specifications, replace them (see Chapter 6).

6To check the rear brake shoes, press the brake pedal firmly while you look at the wear indicator on the brake panel (see illustration). If the indicator pointer is close to the end of its travel, replace the shoes (see Chapter 6).

7If the pads are in good condition, reinstall the covers (if equipped). The words «Uncover for pad service» stamped in the pad covers may be upside down when the cover is installed. This doesn’t mean the cover is upside down.

6 Brake system — general check

Refer to illustrations 6.6a and 6.6b

1A routine general check of the brakes will ensure that any problems are discovered and remedied before the rider’s safety is jeopardized.

2Check the brake lever and pedal for loose connections, excessive play, bends, and other damage. Replace any damaged parts with new ones (see Chapter 6).

3Make sure all brake fasteners are tight. Check the brake pads and shoes for wear (see Section 5) and make sure the fluid level in the front brake reservoir is correct (see Section 3). Look for leaks at the hose connections and check for cracks in the hose(s). If the lever or pedal is spongy, bleed the brakes as described in Chapter 6.

4Make sure the brake light operates when the brake lever is depressed.

5Make sure the brake light is activated just before the rear brake takes effect.

6If adjustment is necessary, hold the switch so it won’t rotate and turn the adjusting nut on the switch body (see illustrations) until the brake light is activated when required. If the switch doesn’t operate the brake lights, check it as described in Chapter 8.

7The front brake light switch is not adjustable. If it fails to operate properly, replace it with a new one (see Chapter 8).

6.6b . . . and this is an XV1100 (700 through 1000 models similar)

7Brake lever and pedal position and play — check and adjustment

Frontbrakes

Refer to illustration 7.2

1The front brake lever must have the amount of free play listed in this Chapter’s Specifications to prevent brake drag.

2Operate the lever and check free play. If it’s not correct, loosen the adjuster locknut, turn the adjuster to bring free play within the

Specifications and tighten the locknut (see illustration).

Rearbrakes

Refer to illustrations 7.4a and 7.4b

3The rear brake pedal should be positioned below the top of the footpeg the distance listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

4To adjust the position of the pedal, loosen the locknut on the adjuster, turn the adjuster to set the pedal position and tighten the locknut (see illustrations).

5Check pedal freeplay and compare it to the value listed in this

Chapter’s Specifications. Adjust if necessary by turning the nut at the rear end of the brake cable or rod.

6If necessary, adjust the brake light switch (see Section 6).

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-11

7.2 Loosen the locknut and turn the screw to change brake lever freeplay

7.4a Loosen the locknut and turn the bolt to change brake pedal freeplay (this is an XV920)…

7.4b . . . and this is an XV1100 (other models similar)

8.4 Check tire pressures with an accurate gauge

8 Tires/wheels — general check

Refer to illustration 8.4

Routine tire and wheel checks should be made with the realization that your safety depends to a great extent on their condition.

Check the tires carefully for cuts, tears, embedded nails or other sharp objects and excessive wear. Operation of the motorcycle with excessivelyworntiresisextremelyhazardous,astractionandhandling are directly affected. Measure the tread depth at the center of the tire

and replace worn tires with new ones when the tread depth is less than specified.

3 Repair or replace punctured tires as soon as damage is noted. Do not try to patch a torn tire, as wheel balance and tire reliability may be impaired.

4 Check the tire pressures when the tires are cold and keep them properly inflated (see illustration). Proper air pressure will increase tire Irfe and provide maximum stability and ride comfort. Keep in mind that low tire pressures may cause the tire to slip on the rim or come off, while high tire pressures will cause abnormal tread wear and unsafe handling.

5 The cast wheels used on some models are virtually maintenance free, outtheyshould bekeptcleanandchecked periodicallyforcracks andotherdamage.Neverattempttorepairdamagedcastwheels;they

must be replaced with new ones.

6 Check the valve stem locknuts to make sure they are tight. Also, make sure the valve stem cap is in place and tight. If it is missing, install a new one made of metal or hard plastic.

9.3 Loosen the lockwheel (A) and turn the adjuster (B) to change freeplay (dual-cable model shown)

9Throttle and choke operation/grip freeplay — check and adjustment

Throttle check

1Make sure the throttle grip rotates easily from fully closed to fully open with the front wheel turned at various angles. The grip should return automatically from fully open to fully closed when released. If the throttle sticks, check the throttle cable(s) for cracks or kinks in the housings. Also, make sure the inner cables are cfean and welllubricated.

2Check for a small amount of freeplay at the grip and compare the freeplay to the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If adjustment is necessary, adjust idle speed first (see Section 19).

Single cable models

Refer to illustration 9.3

3 Loosen the lockwheel at the throttle grip (see illustration). Turn the adjuster to give a slight amount of freeplay, then tighten the lockwheel.

Dual cable models

Refer to illustration 9.9

4These models use two throttle cables — an accelerator cable and a decelerator cable. Initial freeplay adjustments are made at the carburetor end of the cable.

5Remove the seat, and if necessary, the side covers (see Chapter 7).

1-12

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

9.9 Loosen the locknuts and adjust the accelerator and decelerator cables

1

Accelerator cable

3

Locknuts

2

Decelerator cable

4

Throttle pulley

6If you’re working on an XV535 model, remove the upper fuel tank

(see Chapter 3) or the top cover (see Chapter 7).

7On all except XV535 models, remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 3).

8Make sure the locknuts at the handlebar throttle cable adjusters are tight (see illustration 9.3).

9At the carburetors, loosen the cable locknuts (see illustration).

10Turn the locknuts on the decelerator cable to set freeplay to zero, then tighten the locknuts.

11Loosen the accelerator cable locknuts, then turn them to bring freeplay at the throttle grip within the range listed in this Chapter’s

Specifications. Once freeplay is correct, tighten the locknuts.

12To make fine adjustments, loosen the locknut on the handlebar cable adjuster (see illustration 9.3). Turn the adjuster until the desired freeplay is obtained, then retighten the lockwheel.

13 Make sure the throttle grip is in the fully closed position.

14Make sure the throttle linkage lever contacts the idle adjusting screw when the throttle grip is in the closed throttle position. Warning:

Turn the handlebars all the way through their travel with the engine idling. Idle speed should not change. If it does, the cables may be routed incorrectly. Correct this condition before riding the bike.

10 Clutch — check and adjustment

Refer to illustration 10.3

1Correct clutch freeplay is necessary to ensure proper clutch operation and reasonable clutch service life. Freeplay normally changes because of cable stretch and clutch wear, so it should be checked and adjusted periodically.

2Clutch cable freeplay is checked at the lever on the handlebar. Slowly pull in on the lever until resistance is felt, then note how big the gap is between the lever and its pivot bracket. Compare this distance with the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Too little freeplay might result in the clutch not engaging completely. If there is too much freeplay, the clutch might not release fully.

3Normal freeplay adjustments are made at the dutch lever by loosening the lockwheel and turning the adjuster until the desired

10.3 Normal clutch cable adjustments are made at the handlebar — loosen the clutch cable lockwheel (left arrow) and turn the adjuster (right arrow); tighten the lockwheel after adjustment

10.5 The XV535 clutch cable can be adjusted at the bracket on the side of the engine

freeplay is obtained (see illustration). Always retighten the lockwheel once the adjustment is complete.

4 If freeplay can’t be adjusted at the handlebar, check the initial adjustment at the engine.

XV535models

Refer to illustration 10.5

5Loosen the locknuts at the clutch cable bracket on the engine

(see illustration). Turn the nuts to achieve, the correct freeplay, then tighten them.

6If necessary, make fine adjustments at the handlebar adjuster (see Step 3).

XV700through1100models

Refer to illustration 10.8

7Remove the cover from the clutch adjuster on the left side of the engine.

8Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster screw clockwise until it seats lightly, then back it out 1/4 turn and tighten the locknut (see illustration). Caution: Don’t operate the clutch while the locknut is loose.

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-13

10.8 The XV700 through 1100 can be

11.3 Look through the viewing hole to

11.8 Remove the cotter pin and loosen

adjusted with a screw on the side of

measure chain slack

the axle nut; the vertical lines in the

the engine

frame below the nut are used for

chain adjustment

11.9 Loosen and hold the locknut and turn the adjusting bolt to adjust chain slack

All models

9 Recheck freeplay at the clutch lever and make further adjustments (if necessary) with the adjuster at the lever. If freeplay still can’t be adjusted within the Specifications, the cable may be stretched or the clutch may be worn. Refer to Chapter 2 for inspection and repair procedures.

11 Drive chain and sprockets (chain drive models) — check, adjustment and lubrication

1 The drive chain on models so equipped is completely enclosed in a housing and operates in grease, so periodic lubrication isn’t necessary. If the chain appears dry during inspection, refer to Chapter

5 and remove it for inspection.

Check

Refer to illustration 11.3

2To check the chain, place the bike on its centerstand and shift the transmission into Neutral. Make sure the ignition switch is off.

3Pry the cover from the large hole at the lower front of the rear sprocket housing (see illustration).

4Push up on the bottom run of the chain and measure the slack.

Do this every inch or so along the chain until you find the tightest point.

5Pry the chain up and down and measure its movement, then compare your measurements to the value listed in this Chapter’s

Specifications. If the bike is equipped with a scale next to the viewing hole (see illustration 11.3), the center pins of the chain should stay between the marks. As wear occurs, the chain will actually stretch, which means adjustment usually involves removing some slack from the chain.

6The chain should be replaced at the specified mileage interval (see Chapter 5). ‘»

Adjustment

Refer to illustrations 11.8 and 11.9

7If you haven’t already done so, rotate the rear wheel until the chain is positioned with the least amount of slack present.

8Remove the cotter pin from the axle nut and loosen the nut (see illustration).

9Loosen and back-off the locknuts on the adjuster bolts (see illustration).

10Turn the axle adjusting nut on both sides of the swingarm until the proper chain tension is obtained (get the adjuster on the chain side close, then set the adjuster on the opposite side). Be sure to turn the adjusting nuts evenly to keep the rear wheel in alignment. If the adjusting nuts reach the end of their travel, the chain is excessively worn and should be replaced with a new one (see Chapter 5).

11When the chain has the correct amount of slack, make sure the marks on the adjusters correspond to the same relative marks on each side of the swingarm. Tighten the axle nut to the torque listed in the

Chapter 6 Specifications, then install a new cotter pin and bend it properly. If necessary, turn the nut an additional amount to line up the cotter pin hole with the castellations in the nut — don’t loosen the nut to

do this.

12 Tighten the chain adjuster locknuts securely.

12 Final drive oil (shaft drive models) — check and change

1 Final drive oil level should be checked and changed at intervals specified in Section 1.

Check

Refer to illustrations 12.3, 12.4a and 12.4b

2 Support the bike securely in a level position. Warning: The final drive unit may be hot enough to cause burns. Wait until the final drive unit is cool to the touch before checking the level.

1-14

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

12.3 Remove the filler plug to check final drive oil level

12.4a The oil should be even with the top

of the filler hole

12.4b Add oil through the filler hole

12.7a Remove the drain plug ,

12.7b . . . and let the oil drain into a pan, then clean the plug threads and reinstall it

3Remove the filler plug from the final drive housing (see illustration).

4Look inside the hole and check the oil level. It should be even with the top of the hole (see illustration). If it’s low, add oil of the type listed

in this Chapter’s Specifications with a funnel or hose (see illustration), then reinstall the filler plug and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

Oilchange

Refer to illustrations 12.7a and 12.7b

5Ride the bike to warm the oil so it will drain completely. Warning:

Be careful not to touch hot components (including the oil); they may be hot enough to cause burns.

6Remove the filler plug (see illustration 12.3).

7Remove the drain plug and let the oil drain for 10 to 15 minutes

(see illustrations).

8Clean the drain plug, reinstall it and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

9Fill the final drive unit to the correct level with oil of the type listed in this Chapter’s Specifications (see illustrations 12.4a and 12.4b).

10Install the filler plug and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

13 Engine oil/filter — change

Refer to illustrations 13.4a, 13.4b, 13.4c, 13.5a through 13.5c, 13.6a,

13.6b, 13.7 and 13.13

1Consistent routine oil and filter changes are the single most important maintenance procedure you can perform on a motorcycle.

The oil not only lubricates the internal parts of the engine, transmission and clutch, but it also acts as a coolant, a cleaner, a sealant, and a protectant. Because of these demands, the oil takes a terrific amount of abuse and should be replaced’ Often with new oil of the recommended grade and type. Saving a little money on the difference in cost between a good oil and a cheap oil won’t pay off if the engine is damaged.

2Before changing the oil and filter, warm up the engine so the oil will drain easily. Be careful when draining the oil, as the exhaust pipes, the engine, and the oil itself can cause severe burns.

3Support the motorcycle securely over a clean drain pan. Remove the oil filler cap to vent the crankcase and act as a reminder that there is no oil in the engine.

4Next, remove the drain plug from the engine (see illustrations) and allow the oil to drain into the pan (see illustration). Discard the sealing washer on the drain plug; it should be replaced whenever the plug is removed.

5Remove the Allen bolts and take off the filter cover (see illustrations).

6Remove the filter element from the engine (see illustrations).

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-15

13.4a The oil drain plug (arrow) is located

13.4b

Loosen the drain plug with

13.4c … and let the oil drain into a pan

on the left side of the engine (XV535

a socket…

shown; others similar)

13.5a On XV535 models, remove the Allen

13.5b … and remove the cover

13.5c On XV700 through 1100 models,

bolts (arrows) …

remove the Allen bolts (arrows)…

13.6a … and remove the cover together with its two O-rings

13.6b Pull the filter element out of the engine

13.7 On XV535 models, remove the 0- ring from the groove in the cover

1-16

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

13.13 Make sure the washer is in position on the inner end of the filter element

14.2 Remove the screw (1), then lift the

housing cover

14.5a Remove the case cover

bolts (arrows)…

14.5b . . . be careful not to lose the spacer tubes and washers

7If you’re working on an XV535 model, remove the O-ring from its groove in the cover (see illustration).

8If you’re working on an XV700 through 1100 model, remove one

O-ring from the groove in the cover and another from the shoulder on the cover (see illustration 13.6a).

9Clean the filter cover and housing with solvent or clean rags. Make sure the holes in the filter bolt are clear. Wipe any remaining oil off the filter sealing area of the crankcase.

10Clean the components and check them for damage. If any damage is found, replace the damaged part(s).

11Check the condition of the drain plug threads and the sealing washer.

12Install a new O-ring in the cover groove (XV535) or in the groove and against the cover shoulder (XV700-1100) (see illustration 13.6a or

13.7).

13Make sure the rubber seal is in place (see illustration), then install the filter element in the cover. Install the cover on the engine and tighten the Allen bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specificatidns.

14Slip a new sealing washer over the crankcase drain plug, then install and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Avoid overtightening, as damage to the engine case will result.

15Before refilling the engine, check the old oil carefully. If the oil was drained into a clean pan, small pieces of metal or other material can be

easily detected. If the oil is very metallic colored, then the engine is experiencing wear from break-in (new engine) or from insufficient lubrication. If there are flakes or chips of metal in the oil, then something is drastically wrong internally and the engine will have to be disassembled for inspection and repair.

16If there are pieces of fiber-like material in the oil, the clutch is experiencing excessive wear and should be checked.

17If the inspection of the oil turns up nothing unusual, refill the crankcase to the proper level with the recommended oil and install the filler cap. Start the engine and let it run for two or three minutes. Shut it off, wait a few minutes, then check the oil level. If necessary, add more oil to bring the level up to the Maximum mark. Check around the drain plug and filter housing for leaks.

18The old oil drained from the engine cannot be reused in its present state and should be disposed of. Check with your local refuse disposal company, disposal facility or environmental agency to see whether they will accept the used oil for recycling. Don’t pour used oil into drains or onto the ground. After the oil has cooled, it can be drained into a suitable container (capped plastic jugs, topped bottles, milk cartons, etc.) for transport to one of these disposal sites.

14 Air filter element — servicing

XV535 models

Refer to illustration 14.2

1Remove the top cover (see Chapter 7) or upper fuel tank (see Chapter 3).

2Remove the cover screw and lift off the housing cover (see illustration). Inspect the cover O-ring and replace it if it’s damaged or deteriorated.

3Lift out the filter element.

1981through1983andallTR1models

Refer to illustrations 14.5a, 14.5b, 14.6, 14.7a and 14.7b

4Remove the left side cover (see Chapter 7).

5Remove the Allen bolts and detach the air filter housing from the motorcycle (see illustrations).

6Lay the housing on a workbench. Remove the screws that hold the halves of the assembly together, then separate them and lift out the element (see illustration).

7Check the filter housing-to-frame seal and the seals inside the filter housing for deterioration or brittleness (see illustrations). Replace the seals as necessary.

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-17

14.6Separate the housing halves and take the filter element out

14.9 Loosen the clamp bolt and remove the Allen bolts, then detach the air filter case from the motorcycle

14.7a Check the seal between the filter housing and the frame . . .

14.10a Remove the cover from the inside of the case

14.7b . . . and the seals inside the filter housing; replace them if they’re deteriorated or brittle

14.10b Remove the filter element retaining screw, detach the mounting tab and lift out the element

1984 and later XV700 through 1100 models

Refer to illustrations 14.9, 14.10a and 14.10b

8Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 3).

9Loosen the air duct clamp bolt and remove the mounting bolts, then take the air filter case off the motorcycle (see illustration).

10Remove the air filter case cover (see illustration). Remove the element mounting screw and take the element out (see illustration).

All models

11Tap the element on a hard surface to shake out dirt.’ If compressed air is available, use it to clean the element by blowing from the inside out. If the element is extremely dirty or torn, or if dirt can’t be blown or tapped out, replace it with a new one.

12Reinstall the filter by reversing the removal procedure. Make sure the element is seated properly in the filter housing before installing the cover.

13Install all components removed for access.

15 Cylinder compression — check

1Among other things, poor engine performance may be caused by leaking valves, incorrect valve clearances, a leaking head gasket, or worn pistons, rings and/or cylinder walls. A cylinder compression check will help pinpoint these conditions and can also indicate the presence of excessive carbon deposits in the cylinder heads.

2The only tools required are a compression gauge and a spark

plug wrench. Depending on the outcome of the initial test, a squirttype oil can may also be needed.

3Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.

4Support the bike securely so it can’t be knocked over during this procedure.

5Remove the spark plugs (see Section 16, if necessary). Work carefully — don’t strip the spark plug hole threads and don’t burn your hands.

6Disable the ignition by unplugging the primary wires from the coils (see Chapter 4). Be sure to mark the locations of the wires before detaching them.

7Install the compression gauge in one of the spark plug holes.

8Hold or block the throttle wide open.

9Crank the engine over a minimum of four or five revolutions (or until the gauge reading stops increasing) and observe the initial movement of the compression gauge needle as well as the final total gauge reading. Repeat the procedure for the other cylinder and compare the results to the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

10If the compression in both cylinders built up quickly and evenly to the specified amount, you can assume the engine upper end is in reasonably good mechanical condition. Worn or sticking piston rings and worn cylinders will produce very little initial movement of the gauge needle, but compression will tend to build up gradually as the engine spins over. Valve and valve seat leakage, or head gasket leakage, is indicated by low initial compression which does not tend to build up.

11 To further confirm your findings, add a small amount of engine oil

1-18

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

16.2 On XV535 models, remove the Allen bolts and lift off the cylinder head

side covers

16.3a Twist and pull the spark plug caps to detach them from the plugs . . .

16.3b . . . check the rubber seals for brittleness and the plastic for cracks

16.3c The spark plugs are inside wells in

16.7a Spark plug manufacturers

16.7b To change the gap, bend the side

the cylinder heads, so you’ll need a

recommend using a wire type gauge when

electrode only, as indicated by the

socket with a rubber insert to grip

checking the gap — if the wire doesn’t slide

arrows, and be very careful not to crack

the plug

between the electrodes with a slight drag,

or chip the ceramic insulator surrounding

adjustment is required

the center electrode

to each cylinder by inserting the nozzle of a squirt-type oil can through the spark plug holes. The oil will tend to seal the piston rings if they are leaking. Repeat the test for the other cylinder.

12If the compression increases significantly after the addition of the oil, the piston rings and/or cylinders are definitely worn. If the compression does not increase, the pressure is leaking past the valves or the head gasket. Leakage past the valves may be due to insufficient valve clearances, burned, warped or cracked valves or valve seats or valves that are hanging up in the guides.

13If compression readings are considerably higher than specified, the combustion chambers are probably coated with excessive carbon deposits. It is possible (but not very likely) for carbon deposits to raise the compression enough to compensate for the effects of leakage past rings or valves. Remove the cylinder head and carefully decarbonize the combustion chambers (see Chapter 2).

16 Spark plugs — replacement

Refer to illustrations 16.2, 16.3a, 16.3b, 16.3c, 16.7aand 16.7b

1Make sure your spark plug socket is the correct size before attempting to remove the plugs.

2If you’re working on an XV535 model, remove the cylinder head side covers (see illustration).

3Disconnect the spark plug caps from the spark plugs (see illustrations). If available, use compressed air to. blow any accumulated debris from around the spark plugs. Remove the plugs

(see illustration).

4Inspect the electrodes for wear. Both the center and side electrodes should have square edges and the side electrode should be of uniform thickness. Look for excessive deposits and evidence of a cracked or chipped insulator around the center electrode. Compare your spark plugs to the color spark plug reading chart. Check the threads, the washer and the ceramic insulator body for cracks and other damage.

5If the electrodes are not excessively worn, and if the deposits can be easily removed with a wire brush, the plugs can be regapped and reused (if no cracks or chips are visible in the insulator). If in doubt concerning the condition of the plugs, replace them with new ones, as the expense is minimal.

6Cleaning spark plugs by sandblasting is permitted, provided you clean the plugs with a high flash-point solvent afterwards.

7Before installing new plugs, make sure they are the correct type and heat range. Check the gap between the electrodes, as they are not preset. For best results, use a wire-type gauge rather than a flat gauge to cheGk the gap (see illustration). If the gap must be adjusted, bend the side electrode only and be very careful not to chip or crack the insulator nose (see illustration). Make sure the washer is in place before installing each plug.

For a COLOR version of this spark plug diagnosis page, please see the inside rear cover of this manual

CARBON DEPOSITS

Symptoms: Dry sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard starting and hesitation.

Recommendation: Check for a clogged air cleaner, high float level, sticky choke and worn ignition points. Use a spark plug with a longer core nose for greater anti-fouling protection.

OIL DEPOSITS

Symptoms: Oily coating caused by poor oil control. Oil is leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and hesition.

Recommendation: Correct the mechanical condition with necessary repairs and install new plugs.

TOO HOT

Symptoms: Blistered, white insulator, eroded electrode and absence of deposits. Results in shortened plug life.

Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks and sticking valves. Check the coolant level and make sure the radiator is not clogged.

PREIGNITION

Symptoms: Melted electrodes.

Insulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring or flying debris in the combustion chamber. Can lead to engine damage.

Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, clogged cooling system and lack of lubrication.

HIGH SPEED GLAZING

Symptoms: Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicates that combustion chamber temperatures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high speeds.

Recommendation: Install new plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant.

GAP BRIDGING

Symptoms: Combustion deposits lodge between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the electrode gap. The plug ceases to fire, resulting in a dead cylinder.

Recommendation: Locate the faulty plug and remove the deposits from between the electrodes.

NORMAL

Symptoms: Brown to grayishtan color and slight electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions.

Recommendation: When new spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same heat range.

ASH DEPOSITS

Symptoms: Light brown deposits encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel additives. Excessive amounts may mask the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during acceleration.

Recommendation: If excessive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, install new valve guide seals to prevent seepage of oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.

WORN

Symptoms: Rounded electrodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and poor fuel economy.

Recommendation: Replace with new plugs of the same heat range.

DETONATION

Symptoms: Insulators may be cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insulator tip. Can lead to piston damage.

Recommendation: Make sure the fuel anti-knock values meet engine requirements. Use care when setting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.

SPLASHED DEPOSITS

Symptoms: After long periods of misfiring, deposits can loosen when normal combustion temperature is restored by an overdue tune-up. At high speeds, deposits flake off the piston and are thrown against the hot insulator, causing misfiring.

Recommendation: Replace the plugs with new ones or clean and reinstall the originals.

MECHANICAL DAMAGE

Symptoms: May be caused by a foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston damage.

Recommendation: Remove the foreign object from the engine and/or install the correct reach plug.

1-20

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

…17.2a Lubricate the brake pedal pivot

17.2b . . . the footpeg and shift linkage

. . .pivots (arrows) — XV1100 shown

17.2c . . . and the brake and clutch lever pivots (brake lever shown; clutch

lever similar)

17.3a Lubricating a cable with a pressure lube adapter (make sure the tool seats around the inner cable)

8Since the cylinder head is made of aluminum, which is soft and easily damaged, thread the plugs into the heads by hand. Since the plugs are recessed, slip a short length of hose over the end of the plug to use as a tool to thread it into place. The hose will grip the plug well enough to turn it, but will start to slip if the plug begins to cross-thread in the hole — this will prevent damaged threads and the accompanying repair costs.

9Once the plugs are finger tight, the job can be finished with a socket. If a torque wrench is available, tighten the spark plugs to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If you do not have a torque wrench, tighten the plugs finger tight (until the washers bottom on the cylinder head) then use a wrench to tighten them an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Regardless of the method used, do not over-tighten them.

10Reconnect the spark plug caps and reinstall the air ducts.

17 Lubrication — general

Refer to illustrations 17.2a, 17.2b, 17.2c, 17.3a and 17.3b

1 Since the controls, cables and various other components of a motorcycle are exposed to the elements, they should be lubricated periodically to ensure safe and trouble-free operation.

2 The’ footpegs, clutch and brake lever, brake pedal, shift lever and sidestand/centerstand pivots should be lubricated frequently (see illustrations). In order for the lubricant to be applied where it will do the most good, the component should be disassembled. However, if chain and cable lubricant is being used, it can be applied to the pivot

17.3b Oiling a control cable with a funnel

joint gaps and will usually work its way into the areas where friction occurs. If motor oil or light grease is being used, apply it sparingly as it may attract dirt (which could cause the controls to bind or wear at an accelerated rate). Note: One of the best lubricants for the control lever pivots is a dry-film lubricant (available from many sources by different names).

3 To lubricate the throttle and choke cables, disconnect the cable(s) at the lower end, then lubricate the cable with a pressure lube adapter (see illustration). If you don’t have one, disconnect both ends of the cable and use a funnel (see illustration). See Chapter 3, Part B for the choke cable removal procedure (XV535 models don’t have a choke cable). Note: Yamaha recommends that the throttle twist grip be

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-21

18.7a Remove the cover

18.7b . . . and lift the cover off

18.8 Unscrew the timing plug (upper

bolts (arrows)…

arrow) and the crankcase cover plate

(lower arrow)

18.9b XV535 timing marks

1 Rear cylinder top dead center mark

2 Frornt cylinder firing range mark

3 Front cylinder top dead center mark

18.9a The timing mark for the rear cylinder is the line next to the «T» on the alternator rotor; align it with the notch inside the hole (arrow)

removed and lubricated whenever the throttle cables are lubricated. Refer to the handlebar switch removal section of Chapter 8.

4The speedometer cable should be removed from its housing and lubricated with motor oil or cable lubricant.

5Refer to Chapter 5 for the swingarm needle bearing and rear suspension linkage lubrication procedures.

18 Valve clearances — check and adjustment

1The engine must be completely cool for this maintenance procedure, so let the machine sit overnight before beginning.

2Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Remove the spark plugs (see Section 16) so the crankshaft is easier to turn.

3Lift or remove the seat (see Chapter 7).

18.11 Measure valve clearance with a feeler gauge; hold the locknut with a box wrench (ring spanner) and turn the adjusting screw with an Allen wrench or screwdriver

XV535 models

Refer to illustrations 18.7a, 18.7b, 18.8, 18.9a, 18.9b, 18.11 and 18.14

4If you’re working on an early model without an upper fuel tank, remove the top cover (see Chapter 7).

5If you’re working on a later model with an upper fuel tank, remove it (see Chapter 3).

6Remove the left and right front side cover (see Chapter 3). Remove the left side cover bracket and the left side cover bracket/electrical component board.

7Remove the rocker covers (see illustrations).

8Remove the timing plug and the crankcase cover plate (see illustration).

9Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket on the turning bolt

(located inside the crankcase cover plate). Watch the edge of the alternator rotor (visible through the timing plug hole) and stop turning when the line next to the T mark is aligned with the notch inside the hole (see illustrations). This places the rear cylinder at top dead center (TDC) on its compression stroke.

10With the engine in this position, both of the valves for the rear cylinder can be checked.

11Start with the intake valve clearance. Insert a feeler gauge of the thickness listed in this Chapter’s Specifications between the rocker arm and valve stem (see illustration). Pull the feeler gauge out slowly —

1-22

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

18.14 The single line on the edge of the

18.22 Lift off the rocker cover

18.23 Remove the crankcase outer cover

alternator rotor is the top dead center

mark for the front cylinder

18.24a The timing mark for the rear cylinder is the line next to the «T» on the alternator rotor; align it with the pointer inside the hole

you should feel a slight drag. If there’s no drag, the clearance is too loose. If there’s a heavy drag, the clearance is too tight.

12To adjust the clearance, loosen the rocker arm locknut with a box wrench (ring spanner) (see illustration 18.11). Turn the adjusting screw with a screwdriver or Allen wrench to change the clearance, then tighten the locknut.

13Recheck the clearance with the feeler gauge to make sure it didn’t change when you tightened the locknut. Readjust it if necessary.

14Turn the engine clockwise to align the front cylinder’s timing mark with the notch in the timing window (see illustration 18.9b and the accompanying illustration). With the timing mark aligned, wiggle the front cylinder’s rocker arms. There should be a slight amount of cleararjjje between the rocker arms and valve stems. If the rocker arms are tight,- the front piston is on its exhaust stroke, not its compression stroke. Rotate the crankshaft one full turn, line up the timing mark again, then wiggle the rocker arms to be sure the front cylinder is on the compression stroke.

15Perform Steps 11 through 13 above on the front cylinder rocker arms to adjust the front cylinder’s valve clearances.

16Check the O-rings on the rocker covers, timing plug and crankcase cover plate and replace them if they’re flattened, broken or have been leaking.

17install the rocker covers and tighten their bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

18Install all components removed for access.

18.24b XV700 through 1100 timing marks

1 Rear cylinder top dead center mark

2Front cylinder top dead center mark

3Rear cylinder firing range mark

XV700through1000models

Refer to illustrations 18.22, 18.23, 18.24a and 18.24b

19 Remove the seat (see Chapter 7) and the fuel tank (see Chapter 3)-

20If you’re working on a 1981 through 1983 model, remove the side covers if they block access to the tappet covers.

21If you’re working on a 1984 or later model, remove the air filter housing (see Section 14) and the mixture control valve case (see

Chapter 3).

22Remove the rocker covers (see illustration).

23Remove the alternator cover from the left side of the engine (see illustration).

24Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket on the turning bolt (located inside the crankcase cover plate). Watch the edge of the alternator rotor (visible through the timing plug hole) and stop turning when the line next to the T mark is aligned with the pointer inside the hole (see illustrations). This places the rear cylinder at top dead center (TDC) on its compression stroke.’

25Perform Steps 10 through 15 above to adjust the valve clearances on both cylinders.

26Check the O-rings on the rocker covers and alternator cover and replace them if they’re flattened, broken or have been leaking.

27Install the rocker covers and tighten their bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

28 Install all components removed for access.

19 Idle speed — check and adjustment

Refer to illustration 19.3

1 The idle speed should be checked and adjusted before and after the carburetors are synchronized and when it is obviously too high or too low. Before adjusting the idle speed, make sure the valve clearances and spark plug gaps are correct. Also, turn the handlebars

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-23

19.3 Turn the throttle stop screw to set

20.7 Remove the rubber caps and connect

20.9 Disconnect the smaller ho^e from

idle speed (1981 through 1987 XV700

the vacuum gauges or manometer to the

the front carburetor’s intake joint and

through 1100 shown; XV535 and 1988-on

fittings (A); turn the synchronizing screw

connect one of the vacuum gauges or

XV750 and 1100 similar)

(B) to obtain even vacuum readings (XV535

manometer tubes to the fitting

shown; others similar)

back-and-forth and see if the idle speed changes as this is done. If it does, the accelerator cable may not be adjusted correctly, or it may be worn out. This is a dangerous condition that can cause loss of control of the bike. Be sure to correct this problem before proceeding.

2The engine should be at normal operating temperature, which is usually reached after 10 to 15 minutes of stop and go riding. Support the motorcycle securely and make sure the transmission is in Neutral.

3Turn the throttle stop screw (see illustration), until the idle speed listed in this Chapter’s Specifications is obtained.

4Snap the throttle open and shut a few times, then recheck the idle speed. If necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure.

5If a smooth, steady idle can’t be achieved, the fuel/air mixture may be incorrect. Refer to Chapter 5 for additional carburetor information.

20 Carburetor synchronization — check and adjustment

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

1Carburetor synchronization is simply the process of adjusting the carburetors so they pass the same amount of fuel/air mixture to each cylinder. This is done by measuring the vacuum produced in each cylinder. Carburetors that are out of synchronization will result in decreased fuel mileage, increased engine temperature, less than ideal throttle response and higher vibration levels.

2To properly synchronize the carburetors, you will need some sort of vacuum gauge setup, preferably with a gauge for each cylinder, or a mercury manometer, which is a calibrated tube arrangement that utilizes columns of mercury to indicate engine vacuum. You’ll also need an auxiliary fuel tank, since the bike’s fuel tank must be removed for access to the vacuum fittings and synchronizing screws.

3A manometer can be purchased from a motorcycle dealer or accessory shop and should have the necessary rubber hoses supplied with it for hooking into the vacuum hose fittings on the carburetors.

4A vacuum gauge setup can also be purchased from a dealer or fabricated from commonly available hardware and automotive vacuum gauges.

5The manometer is the more reliable and accurate instrument, and for that reason is preferred over the vacuum gauge setup; however, since the mercury used in the manometer is a liquid, and extremely toxic, extra precautions must be taken during useand storage of

the instrument.

6 Because of the nature of the synchronization procedure and the need for special instruments, most owners leave the task to a dealer service department or a reputable motorcycle repair shop.

XV535models

Refer to illustration 20.7

7 Remove the vacuum caps from the intake joint fittings (see illustration). Connect the vacuum gauges or manometer to the fittings.

1981through1983models

Refer to illustration 20.9

8Remove the seat (see Chapter 7). If necessary for access, detach the fuel tank and raise it slightly, leaving the fuel hoses connected (see

Chapter 3).

9Disconnect the smaller hose from the front carburetor’s intake joint (see illustration). Remove the rubber cap from the vacuym fitting on the rear carburetor’s intake joint, then connect the vacuum gauges or manometer to the hose fitting and vacuum fitting.

1984through1987XV700models

10Remove the seat (see Chapter 7). Detach the fuel tank at the rear and raise it slightly, leaving the fuel hoses connected..

11Turn the fuel tap to the PRI position.

12Disconnect the smaller hose from the front carburetor’s intake joint (see illustration 20.9). Remove the rubber cap from the vacuum fitting on the rear carburetor’s intake joint, then connect the vacuum gauges or manometer to the hose fitting and vacuum fitting.

1984through1987XV1000and1100models

13Remove the seat (see Chapter 7).

14Remove the mixture control valve case cover (see Chapter 3).

Disconnect the mixture control valve vacuum hose at the T-fitting and connect one of the manometer tubes or vacuum gauges to the fitting.

15Remove the rubber cap from the vacuum fitting o%_tbe rear carburetor’s intake joint and connect the other vacuurrNgauge or manometer tube to it.

1988andlatermodels

16Remove the seat (see Chapter 7) and the fuel tank (see Chapter 3). Connect an auxiliary fuel source.

17If you’re working on an 1100 model, remove the left side cover.

18Disconnect the smaller hose from the front carburetor’s intake joint. Remove the rubber cap from the vacuum fitting on the rear carburetor’s intake joint, then connect the vacuum gauges or manometer to the hose fitting and vacuum fitting.

Loading…

Скачать файл PDF «Yamaha 1998 Virago 535 Руководство по эксплуатации» (5.7 Mb)

Популярность:

1051 просмотры

Подсчет страниц:

103 страницы

Тип файла:

PDF

Размер файла:

5.7 Mb

Понравилась статья? Поделить с друзьями:
  • Метран 270 руководство по эксплуатации
  • Моксонидин канон инструкция по применению при каком заболевании
  • Snail eye cream anti wrinkle 3w clinic инструкция по применению
  • Сказка подогреватель для детского питания инструкция
  • Руководство пользователя 1с эдо унф