Ямаха вираго 535 мануал

Yamaha Virago 400

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About this manual

Its purpose

The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your motorcycle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs.

We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual

The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs.

At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent

Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that

Section.

Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word «Chapter» apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, «see Section 8» means in the same Chapter.

References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting on the seat, facing forward.

Motorcycle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity.

Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

The Yamaha XV (Virago) series are highly successful and popular cruiser-style motorcycles.

The engine on all models is an air-cooled, V-twin with overhead camshafts. .

Fuel is delivered to the cylinders by two Hitachi or Mikuni carburetors; XV535, XV1000 and XV1100 models use an electric fuel pump.

The front suspension uses a pair of conventional forks, adjustable by varying the fork air pressure on some models. Fork damping is adjustable on XV920 J models.

The rear suspension on 1981 through 1983 models uses a single shock absorber and coil spring. Later models use twin rear shock absorbers with concentric coil springs. Spring preload is adjustable on all XV700 through 1100 models; shock absorber damping is adjustable on 1984 and later XV700 through 1100 models.

The front brake uses a single or dual disc; a drum brake is used at the rear.

Shaft final drive is used on most of the bikes covered in this manual. Some models use an unusual chain drive system, with the chain completely enclosed in housings and running in a bath of grease.

Identification numbers

The frame serial number is stamped into the right side of the frame and printed on a label affixed to the frame. The engine number is stamped into the right upper side of the crankcase. Both of these numbers should be recorded and kept in a safe place so they can be furnished to law enforcement officials in the event of a theft.

The frame serial number, engine serial number and carburetor identification number should also be kept in a handy place (such as with your driver’s license) so they are always available when purchasing or ordering parts for your machine.

The models covered by this manual are as follows: XV535, 1987 through 1990 US

XV535, 1993 and 1994 US XV535, 1988 through 1994 UK

XV700,1984 through 1987 US

XV750, 1981 through 1983 and 1988 through 1994 US

XV750, 1981 through 1983 UK, 1992 through 1994 UK XV920, 1981 through 1983 US

XV1000 shaft drive, 1984 and 1985 US,

1986 through 1989 UK

XV1000 chain drive (TR1), 1981 through 1985 UK XV1100, 1986 through 1994 US, 1989 through 1994 UK

Identifying engines and model years

The procedures in this manual identify the bikes by model year. To determine which model year a given machine is, look for the following identification codes in the engine and frame numbers:

The frame number is stamped in the right side of the frame and is also displayed on a decal

The engine number is stamped in the right side of the crankcase

0-7

0-8

Buying parts

Once you have found all the identification numbers, record them for reference when buying parts. Since the manufacturers change specifications, parts and vendors (companies that manufacture various components on the machine), providing the ID numbers is the only way to be reasonably sure that you are buying the correct parts.

Whenever possible, take the worn part to the dealer so direct comparison with the new component can be made. Along the trail from the manufacturer to the parts shelf, there are numerous places that the part can end up with the wrong number or be listed incorrectly.

The two places to purchase new parts for your motorcycle — the accessory store and the franchised dealer — differ in the type of parts they carry. While dealers can obtain virtually every part for your

motorcycle, the accessory dealer is usually limited to normal high wear items such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, various engine gaskets, cables, chains, brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory outlet have major suspension components, cylinders, transmission gears, or cases.

Used parts can be obtained for roughly half the price of new ones, but you can’t always be sure of what you’re getting. Once again, take your worn part to the wrecking yard (breaker) for direct comparison.

Whether buying new, used or rebuilt parts, the best course is to deal directly with someone who specializes in parts for your particular make.

Basic maintenance techniques

There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the amateur mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fastening systems

Fasteners, basically, are nuts, bolts and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type (either a lock washer, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive). All threaded fasteners should be clean, straight, have undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones.

Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating oil to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it «work» for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores.

If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled out and removed with a special tool called an E-Z out (or screw extractor). Most dealer service departments and motorcycle repair shops can perform this task, as well as others (such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out).

Flat washers and lock washers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Always use a flat washer between a lock washer and any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic. Special locknuts can only be used once or twice before they lose their locking ability and must be replaced.

Tightening sequences and procedures

When threaded fasteners are tightened, they are often tightened to a specific torque value (torque is basically a twisting force). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while under-tightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Each bolt, depending on the material it’s made of, the diameter of its shank and the material it is threaded into, has a specific torque value, which is noted in the Specifications. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely.

Fasteners laid out in a pattern (i.e. cylinder head bolts, engine case bolts, etc.) must be loosened or tightened in a sequence to avoid warping the component. Initially, the bolts/nuts should go on finger tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a crisscross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one tightened and tighten them all one half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners the procedure would be reversed.

Disassembly sequence

Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly during reassembly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Take note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way (such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft). It’s a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a

clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal.

When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mixups later. If nuts and bolts can’t be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. engine case bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts (such as the carburetors and the valve train). The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents.

Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it’s a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces

Throughout any motorcycle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between components and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly.

Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. In most cases, the part can be loosened by striking it with a soft-faced hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed.

Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart components, as they can easily mar the gasket Sealing surfaces of the parts (which must remain smooth). If prying is absolutely necessary, use a piece of wood, but keep in mind that extra clean-up will be necessary if the wood splinters.

After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with a gasket remover (available in aerosol cans) to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer is best.

Hose removal tips

Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off (silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot). Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation.

If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Also, do not reuse hoses that are cracked, split or torn.

Tools

A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair a motorcycle. For the owner who has few tools, if any, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of routine maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed.

Eventually the basic kit will be built into the Repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box end and open end combined in one wrench); while more expensive than open-ended ones, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrench set (6 mm to 22 mm)

Adjustable wrench -8 in

Spark plug socket (with rubber insert)

Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set

Standard screwdriver (5/16 in x 6 in) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2×6 in)

Allen (hex) wrench set (4 mm to 12 mm)

Combination (slip-joint) pliers — 6 in Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge

Control cable pressure luber Grease gun

Oil can

Fine emery cloth Wire brush

Hand impact screwdriver and bits

Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles

Drain pan

Work light with extension cord

Repair and overhaul tool set

These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are intended to supplement those in the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility (especially when various extensions and drives are available). We recommend the 3/8 inch drive over the 1/2 inch drive for general motorcycle maintenance and repair (ideally, the mechanic would have a 3/8 inch drive set and a 1/2 inch drive set).

Socket set(s)

Reversible ratchet Extension — 6 in

Universal joint

Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball pein hammer — 8 oz

Soft-faced hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4 in x 6 in) Standard screwdriver (stubby — 5/16 in)

Phillips screwdriver (No. 3×8 in)

Phillips screwdriver (stubby — No. 2) Pliers — locking

Pliers — lineman’s Pliers — needle nose

Pliers — snap-ring (internal and external)

Cold chisel — 1/2 in Scriber

Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Center punch

Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16 in) Steel rule/straightedge — 12 in Pin-type spanner wrench

A selection of files Wire brush (large)

Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8 inch (and a set of good quality drill bits).

Special tools

The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used

frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends (i.e. members of a motorcycle club).

This list primarily contains tools and instruments widely available to the public, as well as some special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. As a result, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are occasionally included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool can’t be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or a motorcycle repair shop.

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring removal and installation tool Piston pin puller

Telescoping gauges

Micrometers) and/or dial/Vernier calipers

Cylinder surfacing hone

Cylinder compression gauge

Dial indicator set

Multimeter

Adjustable spanner

Manometer or vacuum gauge set

Small air compressor with blow gun and tire chuck

Buying tools

For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in motorcycle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices (and they often come with a tool box). As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used.

Tool stores and motorcycle dealers will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones (especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets) because they won’t last very long.There are plenty of tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase items which meet the relevant national safety standards. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use, there is a book entitled Motorcycle Workshop Practice Manual (Book no. 1454) available from the publishers of this manual. It also provides an introduction to basic workshop practice which will be of interest to a home mechanic working on any type of motorcycle.

Care and maintenance of tools

Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area.

Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they can’t be damaged by weather or impact from other tools.

When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it; subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Working facilities

Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential.

It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside (it is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof).

A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches.

As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary.

Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, simply pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or service station. Plastic jugs are ideal for this purpose.

Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the motorcycle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor.

Whenever working over a painted surface (such as the fuel tank) cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish.

A number of chemicals and lubricants are available for use in motorcycle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Contact point/spark plug cleaner is a solvent used to clean oily film and dirt from points, grime from electrical connectors and oil deposits from spark plugs. It is oil free and leaves no residue. It can also be used to remove gum and varnish from carburetor jets and other orifices.

Carburetor cleaner is similar to contact point/spark plug cleaner but it usually has a stronger solvent and may leave a slight oily reside.

It is not recommended for cleaning electrical components or connections.

Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease or brake fluid from brake system components (where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary and petroleum-based solvents cannot be used); it also leaves no residue.

Silicone-based lubricants are used to protect rubber parts such as hoses and grommets, and are used as lubricants for hinges and locks.

Multi-purpose grease is an all purpose lubricant used wherever grease is more practical than a liquid lubricant such as oil. Some multipurpose grease is colored white and specially formulated to be more resistant to water than ordinary grease.

Gear oil (sometimes called gear lube) is a specially designed oil used in transmissions and final drive units, a s well as other areas where high friction, high temperature lubrication is required. It is available in a number of viscosities (weights) for various applications.

Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant specially formulated for use in the engine. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) of from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the seasonal temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions; heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have Characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50.

Gas (petrol) additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts.

They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings.

Brake fluid is a specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt.

Chain lubricants are formulated especially for use on motorcycle final drive chains. A good chain lube should adhere well and have good penetrating qualities to be effective as a lubricant inside the chain and on the side plates, pins and rollers. Most chain lubes are either the foaming type or quick drying type and are usually marketed as sprays.

Degreasers are heavy duty solvents used to remove grease and grime that may accumulate on engine and frame components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed with either water or solvent.

Solvents are used alone or in combination with degreasers to clean parts and assemblies during repair and overhaul. The home mechanic should use only solvents that are non-flammable and that do not produce irritating fumes.

Gasket sealing compounds may be used in conjunction with gaskets, to improve their sealing capabilities, or alone, to seal metal- to-metal joints. Many gasket sealers can withstand extreme heat, some are impervious to gasoline and lubricants, while others are capable of filling and sealing large cavities. Depending on the intended use, gasket sealers either dry hard or stay relatively soft and pliable. They are usually applied by hand, with a brush, or are sprayed on the gasket sealing surfaces.

Thread cement is an adhesive locking compound that prevents threaded fasteners from loosening because of vibration. It is available in a variety of types for different applications.

Moisture dispersants are usually sprays that can be used to dry out electrical components such as the fuse block and wiring connectors. Some types can also be used as treatment for rubber and as a lubricant for hinges, cables and locks.

Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older-vehicles. In recent years, many non-wax polishes (that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones) have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

Troubleshooting

Contents

Symptom Section

Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start

Poor running at low speed

Poor running or no power at high speed

Abnormal engine noise

Abnormal driveline noise

Abnormal frame and suspension noise

pressure. Replace cam, bushing or cylinder head. Abnormal wear could be caused by oil starvation at high rpm from low oil level or improper viscosity or type of oil (Chapter 1).

4 Crankshaft and/or bearings worn. Same problems as paragraph 3. Check and replace crankshaft and/or bearings (Chapter 2).

20 Firing incorrect

1Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out. See Chapter 1 for spark plug maintenance.

2Incorrect spark plug (see Chapter 1).

3Faulty ignition coil(s) (Chapter 4).

25 Miscellaneous causes

Modification to exhaust system. Most aftermarket exhaust systems cause the engine to run leaner, which make them run hotter. When installing an accessory exhaust system, always rejet the carburetors.

21 Fuel/air mixture incorrect

1Main jet clogged. Dirt, water and other contaminants can clog the main jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the float bowl area and the jets and carburetor orifices (Chapter 3).

2Main jet wrong size. The standard jetting is for sea level atmospheric pressure and oxygen content.

3Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing.

4Air cleaner-to-carburetor boot poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps and replace or repair.

5Fuel level too low. Adjust the float(s) (Chapter 3).

6Fuel tank air vent obstructed. Make sure that the air vent passage in the filler cap is open.

7Carburetor intake joints loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubber boots (Chapter 3).

22 Compression too high

1Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up. Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and decarbonized (Chapter 2).

2Improperly machined head surface or installation of incorrect gasket during engine assembly.

23 Engine load excessive

1 Clutch slipping. Can be caused by damaged, loose or worn clutch oonents. Refer to Chapter 2 for overhaul procedures.

Engine oil level too high. The addition of too much oil will cause pressurization of the crankcase and inefficient engine operation. Check

Specifications and drain to proper level (Chapter 1).

3Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than the one recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication system as well as cause drag on the engine.

4Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake piston sealing boot, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary.

24 Lubrication inadequate

1Engine oil level too low. Friction caused by intermittent lack of lubrication or from oil that is overworked can cause overheating. The oil provides a definite cooling function in the engine. Check the oil level (Chapter 1).

2Poor quality engine oil or incorrect viscosity or type. Oil is rated not only according to viscosity but also according to type. Some oils are not rated high enough for use in this engine. Check the Specifications section and change to the correct oil (Chapter 1).

3Camshaft or journals worn. Excessive wear causing drop in oil

Clutch problems

26 Clutch slipping

1Friction plates worn or warped. Overhaul the clutch assembly (Chapter 2).

2Steel plates worn or warped (Chapter 2).

3Clutch spring(s) broken or weak. Old or heat-damaged spring(s) (from slipping clutch) should be replaced with new ones (Chapter 2).

4Clutch release mechanism defective. Replace any defective parts (Chapter 2).

5Clutch boss or housing unevenly worn. This causes improper engagement of the plates. Replace the damaged or worn parts (Chapter 2).

27 Clutch not disengaging completely

1Clutch lever play excessive (see Chapter 1). Clutch cable improperly adjusted (see Chapter 1).

2Clutch plates warped or damaged. This will cause clutch drag, which in turn will cause the machine to creep. Overhaul the clutch assembly (Chapter 2).

3Usually caused by a sagged or broken spring(s). Check and replace the spring(s) (Chapter 2).

4Engine oil deteriorated. Old, thin, worn out oil will not provide proper lubrication for the discs, causing the clutch to drag. Replace the oil and filter (Chapter 1).

5Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a thicker oil than recommended in Chapter 1 can cause the plates to stick together, putting a drag on the engine. Change to the correct viscosity oil (Chapter 1).

6Clutch housing seized on shaft. Lack of lubrication, severe wear or damage can cause the housing to seize on the shaft. Overhaul of the clutch, and perhaps transmission, may be necessary to repair the damage (Chapter 2).

7Clutch release mechanism defective. Worn or damaged release mechanism parts can stick and fail to apply force to the pressure plate.

Overhaul the release mechanism (Chapter 2).

8Loose clutch boss nut. Causes housing and boss misalignment putting a drag on the engine. Engagement adjustment continually varies. Overhaul the clutch assembly (Chapter 2).

Gear shifting problems

28 Doesn’t go into gear or lever doesn’t return

1- Clutch not disengaging. See Section 27.

2 Shift fork(s) bent or seized. Often caused by dropping the machine or from lack of lubrication. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).

hard from age or being washed out by high pressure car washes.

Disassemble steering head and repack bearings (Chapter 5).

5Steering stem bent. Caused by a collision, hitting a pothole or by dropping the machine. Replace damaged part. Don’t try to straighten the steering stem (Chapter 5).

6Front tire air pressure too low (Chapter 1).

47 Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively

1Tires worn or out of balance (Chapter 1 or 6).

2Swingarm bearings worn. Replace worn bearings by referring to

Chapter 6.

3Rim(s) warped or damaged. Inspect wheels for runout (Chapter 6).

4Wheel bearings worn. Worn front or rear wheel bearings can cause poor tracking. Worn front bearings will cause wobble (Chapter 6).

5Handlebar clamp bolts or bracket nuts loose (Chapter 5).

6Steering stem or fork clamps loose. Tighten them to the specified torque (Chapter 5).

7Motor mount bolts loose. Will cause excessive vibration with increased engine rpm (Chapter 2).

4Contaminated pads. Caused by contamination with oil, grease, brake fluid, etc. Clean or replace pads. Clean disc thoroughly with brake cleaner (Chapter 6).

5Brake fluid deteriorated. Fluid is old or contaminated. Drain system, replenish with new fluid and bleed the system (Chapter 6).

6Master cylinder internal parts worn or damaged causing fluid to bypass (Chapter 6).

7Master cylinder bore scratched by foreign material or broken spring. Repair or replace master cylinder (Chapter 6).

8Disc warped. Replace disc (Chapter 6).

51 Brake lever or pedal pulsates

1Disc warped. Replace disc (Chapter 6).

2Axle bent. Replace axle (Chapter 5).

3Brake caliper bolts loose (Chapter 6).

4Brake caliper shafts damaged or sticking, causing caliper to bind.

Lube the shafts or replace them if they are corroded or bent (Chapter 6).

5Wheel warped or otherwise damaged (Chapter 6).

6Wheel bearings damaged or worn (Chapter 6).

7Brake drum out of round. Replace brake drum (Chapter 6).

48 Handlebar pulls to one side

1Frame bent. Definitely suspect this if the machine has been dropped. May or may not be accompanied by cracking near the bend. Replace the frame (Chapter 5).

2Wheel out of alignment. Caused by improper location of axle spacers or from bent steering stem or frame (Chapter 5).

3Swingarm bent or twisted. Caused by age (metal fatigue) or impact damage. Replace the swingarm (Chapter 5).

4Steering stem bent. Caused by impact damage or by dropping the motorcycle. Replace the steering stem (Chapter 5).

5Fork leg bent. Disassemble the forks and replace the damaged parts (Chapter 5).

6Fork oil level uneven. Check and add or drain as necessary

(Chapter 5).

49 Poor shock absorbing qualities

1Too hard:

a)Fork oil level excessive (Chapter 5).

b)Fork oil viscosity too high. Use a lighter oil (see the Specifications in Chapter 1).

c)Fork tube bent. Causes a harsh, sticking feeling (Chapter 5).

d)Shock shaft or body bent or damaged (Chapter 5).

e)Fork internal damage (Chapter 5).

f)Shock internal damage.

g)Tire pressure too high (Chapters 1 and 6).

2Too soft:

a)Fork or shock oil insufficient and/or leaking (Chapter 5).

b)Fork oil level too low (Chapter 5).

c)Fork oil viscosity too light (Chapter 5).

d)Fork springs weak or broken (Chapter 5).

Braking problems

50 Front brakes are spongy, don’t hold

1 Air in brake line. Caused by inattention to master cylinder fluid level or by leakage. Locate problem and bleed brakes (Chapter 6).

2Pad or disc worn (Chapters 1 and 6).

3Brake fluid leak. See paragraph 1.

52 Brakes drag

1Master cylinder piston seized. Caused by wear or damage to piston or cylinder bore (Chapter 6).

2Lever balky or stuck. Check pivot and lubricate (Chapter 6).

3Brake caliper binds. Caused by inadequate lubrication or damage to caliper shafts (Chapter 6).

4Brake caliper piston seized in bore. Caused by wear or ingestion of dirt past deteriorated seal (Chapter 6),

5Brake pad damaged. Pad material separated from backing plate. Usually caused by faulty manufacturing process or from contact with chemicals. Replace pads (Chapter 6).

6Pads improperly installed (Chapter 6).

7Rear brake pedal free play insufficient (Chapter 1).

8Rear brake springs weak. Replace brake springs (Chapter 6).

Electrical problems

53 Battery dead or weak

1Battery faulty. Caused by sulfated plates which are shorted through sedimentation or low electrolyte level. Also, broken battery terminal making only occasional contact (Chapter 8).

2Battery cables making poor contact (Chapter 8).

3Load excessive. Caused by addition of high wattage lights or other electrical accessories.

4Ignition switch defective. Switch either grounds/earths internally or fails to shut off system. Replace the switch (Chapter 8).

5Regulator/rectifier defective (Chapter 8).

6Stator coil open or shorted (Chapter 8).

7Wiring faulty. Wiring grounded or connections loose in ignition, charging or lighting circuits (Chapter 8).

54 Battery overcharged

1Regulator/rectifier defective. Overcharging is noticed when battery gets excessively warm or boils over (Chapter 8).

2Battery defective. Replace battery with a new one (Chapter 8).

3Battery amperage too low, wrong type or size. Install manufacturer’s specified amp-hour battery to handle charging load (Chapter 8).

Contents

Section

Specifications

XV535

Engine

Spark plugs Type

Gap

Valve clearances (COLD engine) Intake

Exhaust Engine idle speed

Cylinder compression pressure (at sea level)

Standard Maximum…

Minimum

Maximum difference between cylinders Carburetor synchronization

Vacuum at idle speed

Maximum vacuum difference between cylinders

Cylinder numbering (from rear to front of bike)…

Miscellaneous

Torque specifications

Recommended lubricants and fluids

NGK BP7ES or ND W22EP-U

0.7 to 0.8 mm (0.028 to 0.032 inch)

0.07to 0.12 mm (0.003 to 0.005 inch)

0.12to 0.17 mm (0.005 to 0.007 inch) 1150 to 1250 rpm

10.75Bars (156 psi)

11.78Bars (171 psi)

9.78Bars (142 psi)

0.96Bars (14 psi)

230 mm Hg (9.06 inch Hg)

10 mm Hg (0.39 inch Hg)

1-2

38 mm (1.5 inch) above the top of the footpeg

50 to 60 mm (2.0 to 2.4 inches) above the top of the footpeg

2 to 5 mm (0.08 to 0.20 inch)

2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch)

2 to 5 mm (0.08 to 0.20 inch)

20 to 30 mm (0.8 to 1.2 inches) 1.280 at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 1 mm (0.04 inch)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

1.99Bars (29 psi)

2.2Bars (32 psi)

2.27Bars (33 psi)

2.48bars (36 psi)

43 Nm (31 ft-lbs)

10Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

12.5Nm (9 ft-lbs)

38 Nm (27 ft-lbs)

10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

54 Nm (39 ft-lbs)

14 Nm (10 ft-lbs)

10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

23 Nm (17 ft-lbs)

Unleaded

Regular

8.6 liters (2.3 US gal, 1.9 Imp gal)

2.0liters (0.5 US gal, 0.4 Imp gal)

13.5liters (3.6 US gal, 3.0 Imp gal)

2.5liters (0.7 US gal, 0.5 Imp gal)

API grade SE or SF

Viscosity

Consistently below 15 degrees C (60 degrees F) Consistently above 5 degrees C (40 degrees F)

SAE 10W30

SAE 20W40

2.8liters (3.0 US qt, 5.0 Imperial pt)

2.6liters (2.7 US qt, 4.6 Imperial pt)

DOT 4

SAE 80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil 0.19 liters (0.2 US qt, 0.34 Imp pt

Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease

Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil

Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant

XV920RH and RJ

Front

Up to 90 kg (198 lbs) load

90 to 213 kg (198 to 470 lbs) load High speed riding

Rear

Up to 90 kg (198 lbs)

90 to 213 kg (198 to 470 lbs)

High speed riding

Torque specifications

Oil drain plug

Oil filter cover bolts

Spark plugs

Steering head bearing ring nuts

Initial torque

Final torque

Steering stem bolt

XV920J, K, MK

All others

Valve adjuster locknuts

Rocker cover bolts

Final drive filler and drain plugs

Recommended lubricants and fluids

Engine/transmission oil Type

Viscosity

Consistently below 15 degrees C (60 degrees F)

Consistently above 5 degrees C (40 degrees F)

Capacity

With filter change

Oil change only Brake fluid

Final gear Type Capacity

Wheel bearings

Swingarm pivot bearings Cables and lever pivots Sidestand/centerstand pivots Brake pedal/shift lever pivots

Throttle grip

1.79Bars (26 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

2.20bars (32 psi)

2.20Bars (32 psi)

1.79Bars (26 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

2.20bars (32 psi)

2.20Bars (32 psi)

43 Nm (31 ft-lbs)

10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

14 Nm (10 ft-lbs)

25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) Back off 1/4 turn

54 Nm (39 ft-lbs)

50 Nm (36 ft-lbs)

27 Nm (19 ft-lbs)

10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

23 Nm (17 ft-lbs)

API grade SE or SF

SAE 10W30

SAE 20W40

3.1liters (3.3 US qt, 5.46 Imperial pt)

3.0liters (3.2 US qt, 5.28 Imperial pt) DOT 4

SAE 80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil

0.20 liters (6.76 US fl oz, 7.04 Imp fl oz

Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease

Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil

Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil

Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant

Engine idle speed

Cylinder numbering (from rear to front of bike)

Miscellaneous

Torque specifications

Recommended lubricants and fluids

10.75Bars (156 psi)

11.78Bars (171 psi)

8.8Bars (128 psi) 0.96 Bars (14 psi)

180 +/-10 mm Hg (7.09 +/- 0.4 inch Hg)

10 mm Hg (0.4 inch Hg)

950 to 1050 rpm

1-2

20 mm (0.8 inch) above bottom of footpeg

Not specified

Not specified

2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch)

5 to 8 mm (0.20 to 0.30 inch)

20 to 30 mm (0.8 to 1.2 inch)

1.280 at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) 1 mm (0.04 inch)

1.79Bars (26 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

2.20Bars (32 psi)

1.93Bars (28 psi)

2.48bars (36 psi)

2.76Bars (40 psi)

2.48Bars (36 psi)

43 Nm (31 ft-lbs)

10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)

50 Nm (36 ft-lbs)

3 Nm (2.2 ft-lbs)

110 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

27 Nm (19 ft-lbs)

10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs)

23 Nm (17 ft-lbs)

API grade SE or SF

SAE 10W30

SAE 20W40

3.1liters (3.3 US qt, 5.46 Imperial pt)

3.0liters (3.2 US qt, 5.28 Imperial pt) DOT 4

SAE 80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil

0.20 liters (6.76 US fl oz, 7.04 Imp fl oz

Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil

Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant

Routine maintenance intervals

Note: The pre-ride inspection outlined in the owner’s manual covers checks and maintenance that should be carried out on a daily basis. It’s condensed and included here to remind you of its importance. Always perform the pre-ride inspection at every maintenance interval (in addition to the procedures listed). The intervals listed below are the shortest intervals recommended by the manufacturer for each particular operation during the model years covered in this manual. Your owner’s manual may have different intervals for your model.

Daily or before riding

Check the engine oil level

Check the fuel level and inspect for leaks

Check the operation of both brakes — also check the front brake fluid level and look for leakage

Check the tires for damage, the presence of foreign objects and correct air pressure

Check the throttle for smooth operation and correct freeplay

Check the operation of the clutch — make sure the freeplay is correct

Make sure the steering operates smoothly, without looseness and without binding

Check for proper operation of the headlight, taillight, brake light, turn signals, indicator lights and horn

Make sure the sidestand (and centerstand, if equipped) returns to its fully up position and stays there under spring pressure

Make sure the engine kill switch works properly

Adjust the valve clearances Clean and gap the spark plugs

Lubricate the clutch cable, throttle cable(s) and speedometer cable

Check/adjust throttle cable free play Check/adjust the idle speed

Check/adjust the carburetor synchronization Check the front brake fluid level

Adjust front brake free play Check the brake disc(s) and pads

Check the rear brake shoes for wear Check/adjust the brake pedal position Check the operation of the brake light Lubricate the clutch and brake lever pivots Lubricate the shift/brake pedal pivots and the

sidestand/centerstand pivots Check the steering

Check the front forks for proper operation and fluid leaks Check the tires, wheels and wheel bearings

Check the battery electrolyte level and specific gravity; inspect the breather tube

Check the exhaust system for leaks and check the tightness of the fasteners

Check the cleanliness of the fuel system and the condition of the fuel lines and vacuum hoses

Inspect the crankcase ventilation system Check the operation of the sidestand switch Check and adjust clutch cable free play

After the initial 600 miles/1000 km

Perform all of the daily checks plus:

Check/adjust the carburetor synchronization Adjust the valve clearances

Change the final gear oil (if equipped) Check/adjust the drive chain slack (if equipped) Change the engine oil and oil filter

Check the tightness of all fasteners Check the steering

Check/adjust clutch freeplay Check the front brake fluid level Inspect brake pads and shoes

Check/adjust the brake pedal position Check the operation of the brake light Check the operation of the sidestand switch

Lubricate the clutch cable, throttle cable(s) and speedometer cable

Every 300 miles/500 km

Check/adjust the drive chain slack (if equipped)

Every 4000 miles/6000 km or 6 months

Change the engine oil

Clean the air filter element and replace it if necessary

Every 12,000 km/8,000 miles or 12 months

All of the items above plus:

Change the engine oil and oil filter

Replace the spark plugs

Check final gear oil level (if equipped)

Every 18,000 km/12,000 miles

Repack the swingarm bearings

Every 24,000 km/15,000 miles or two years

Change the final gear oil (if equipped)

Clean and lubricate the steering head bearings

Every 50,000 km/30,000 miles

Replace the drive chain (if equipped)

Every two years

Replace the brake master cylinder and caliper seals and change the brake fluid

Every four years

Replace the brake hose(s)

3.3a Check the oil level in the window (this is an XV535)…

2 Introduction to tune-up and routine maintenance

Refer to illustrations 2.3a, 2.3b and 2.3c

This Chapter covers in detail the checks and procedures necessary for the tune-up and routine maintenance of your motorcycle. Section 1 includes the routine maintenance schedule, which is designed to keep the machine in proper running condition and prevent possible problems. The remaining Sections contain detailed procedures for carrying out the items listed on the maintenance schedule, as well as additional maintenance information designed to increase reliability.

Since routine maintenance plays such an important role in the safe and efficient operation of your motorcycle, it is presented here as a comprehensive check list. For the rider who does all his own maintenance, these lists outline the procedures and checks that should be done on a routine basis.

Maintenance information is printed on labels attached to the motorcycle (see illustrations). If the information on the labels differs from that included here, use the information on the label.

Deciding where to start or plug into the routine maintenance schedule depends on several factors. If you have a motorcycle whose warranty has recently expired, and if it has been maintained according to the warranty standards, you may want to pick up routine maintenance as it coincides with the next mileage or calendar interval. If you have owned the machine for some time but have never performed any maintenance on it, then you may want to start at the nearest interval and include some additional procedures to ensure that nothing important is overlooked. If you have just had a major engine overhaul, then you may want to start the maintenance routine from the beginning. If you have a used machine and have no knowledge of its

3.3b . . . and this is an XV920 (other 700 through 1100 models similar)

history or maintenance record, you may desire to combine all the checks into one large service initially and then settle into the maintenance schedule prescribed.

The Sections which outline the inspection and maintenance procedures are written as step-by-step comprehensive guides to the performance of the work. They explain in detail each of the routine inspections and maintenance procedures on the check list. References to additional information in applicable Chapters is also included and should not be overlooked.

Before beginning any maintenance or repair, the machine should be cleaned thoroughly, especially around the oil filter, spark plugs, cylinder head covers, side covers, carburetors, etc. Cleaning will help ensure that dirt does not contaminate the engine and will allow you to detect wear and damage that could otherwise easily go unnoticed.

3 Fluid levels — check

Engine oil

Refer to illustrations 3.3a, 3.3b, 3.4a and 3.4b

1Run the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Caution: Do not run the engine in an enclosed space such as a garage or shop.

2Stop the engine and allow the machine to sit undisturbed for about five minutes.

3Hold the motorcycle level. With the engine off, check the oil level in the window located at the lower part of the right crankcase cover. The oil level should be between the Maximum and Minimum level marks next to the window (see illustrations).

3.4a Remove the filler plug (arrow)…

3.9 To add fluid, remove the cover screws (arrows) and lift off the cover and diaphragm

3.4b . . . and add oil to bring up the level in the window

4.4a Unclip the fuel hoses and move them aside . . .

3.7 Brake fluid should be above the Lower line in the window

4.4b . . . then remove the securing strap and lift off the battery cover

evenly, but do not overtighten them.

12Wipe any spilled fluid off the reservoir body and reposition and tighten the brake lever and master cylinder assembly if it was moved.

13If the brake fluid level was low, inspect the brake system for leaks.

Brakefluid

Refer to illustrations 3.7 and 3.9

5In order to ensure proper operation of the hydraulic disc brake, the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir must be properly maintained,

6With the motorcycle held level, turn the handlebars until the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible.

7Look closely at the inspection window in the master cylinder reservoir. Make sure that the fluid level is above the Lower mark on the reservoir (see illustration).

8If the level is low, the fluid must be replenished. Before removing the master cylinder cover, cover the fuel tank to protect it from brake fluid spills (which will damage the paint) and remove all dust and dirt from the area around the cover.

9To replace brake fluid, remove the screws (see illustration) and lift off the cover and rubber diaphragm. Note: Do not operate the front brake with the cover removed.

10 Add new, clean brake fluid of the recommended type until the level is above the inspection window. Do not mix different brands of brake fluid in the reservoir, as they may not be compatible.

11 Reinstall the rubber diaphragm and the cover. Tighten the screws

4 Battery electrolyte level/specific gravity — check

Refer to illustrations 4.4a, 4.4b, 4.5a, 4.5b, 4.5c and 4.8

Caution: Be extremely careful when handling or working around the battery. The electrolyte is very caustic and an explosive gas (hydrogen) is given off when the battery is charging. Note: The first Steps describe battery removal. If the electrolyte level is known to be sufficient it won’t be necessary to remove the battery.

1This procedure applies to batteries that have removable filler caps, which can be removed to add water to the battery. If the original equipment battery has been replaced by a sealed maintenance-free battery, the electrolyte can’t be topped up.

2Remove the seat (see Chapter 7).

3If necessary for access to remove the battery, remove the side covers (see Chapter 7).

4If you’re working on an XV535 equipped with an upper fuel tank, detach the fuel hoses from their clips and move them aside. Remove the securing strap and battery cover (see illustrations).

5Remove the screws securing the battery cables tothe battery terminals (remove the negative cable first, positive cable last) (see

4.8 Check the specific gravity with a hydrometer

illustration). Remove the battery securing strap if you haven’t already done so and pull the battery straight up to remove it (see illustration).

The electrolyte level will now be visible through the translucent battery case — it should be between the Upper and Lower level marks (see illustration).

6 If the electrolyte is low, remove the cell caps and fill each cell to the upper level mark with distilled water. Note: Some models have a long-life batteryequippedwithonlyonefiilerplug.Donotusetapwater

(except in an emergency), and do not overfill. The cell holes are quite small, so it may help to use a plastic squeeze bottle with a small spout to add the water. If the level is within the marks on the case, additional water is not necessary.

7 Next, check the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell with a small hydrometer made especially for motorcycle batteries. These are available from most dealer parts departments or motorcycle accessory stores.

8 Remove the caps, draw some electrolyte from the first cell into the hydrometer (see illustration) and note the specific gravity. Compare the reading to the Specifications listed in this Chapter. Note:

Add 0.004 points to the reading for every 10-degrees F above 20degrees C (68-degrees F) — subtract 0.004 points from the reading for every 10-degrees below 20-degrees C (68-degrees F). Return the electrolyte to the appropriate cell and repeat the check for the remaining cells. When the check is complete, rinse the hydrometer thoroughly with clean water.

9If the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell is as specified, the battery is in good condition and is apparently being charged by the machine’s charging system.

10If the spepific gravity is low, the battery is not fully charged. This may be due to corroded battery terminals, a dirty battery case, a

5.2 The caliper on chain drive models has a pad inspection window

malfunctioning charging system, or loose or corroded wiring connections. On the other hand, it may be that the battery is worn out, especially if the machine is old, or that infrequent use of the motorcycle prevents normal charging from taking place.

11Be sure to correct any problems and charge the battery if necessary. Refer to Chapter 8 for additional battery maintenance and charging procedures.

12On models without a battery cover, secure the battery with the strap (see illustration 4.5a). Install the battery cell caps, tightening them securely. Reconnect the cables to the battery, attaching the positive cable first and the negative cable last. Make sure to install the insulating boot over the terminals.

13Install the battery cover (if equipped) and secure it with the strap.

14Install all components removed for access. Be very careful not to pinch or otherwise restrict the battery vent tube, as the battery may build up enough internal pressure during normal charging system operation to explode.

5 Brake pads and shoes — wear check

Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.3 and 5.6

1The front brake pads should be checked at the recommended intervals and replaced with new ones when worn beyond the limit listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Always replace pads in complete sets; if the front brake has two calipers, replace all foir

at the same time.

2To check the front brake pads on chain drive models, flic

the inspection window on the back of the caliper (see illustration) f the pads are worn nearly to the red line, replace them (see Chac:

3On models so equipped, remove the pad cover (see illustration 2.9a in Chapter 6, Part B). Reach up and operate the brake lever while you look at the back of the caliper. If the pad wear indicator is close to the disc (see illustration), the pads are worn excessively and must be replaced with new ones (see Chapter 6).

4On XV535 models, remove the rubber plug from the back of the caliper. Look through the hole and inspect the pads. If the pads are

worn near the wear limit listed in the Chapter 6 Specifications, replace them.

5On models without an inspection window or a pad cover, squeeze the front brake lever and look at the edges of the pads. If the pads are worn to near the wear limit listed in the Chapter 6 Specifications, replace them (see Chapter 6).

6To check the rear brake shoes, press the brake pedal firmly while you look at the wear indicator on the brake panel (see illustration). If the indicator pointer is close to the end of its travel, replace the shoes (see Chapter 6).

7If the pads are in good condition, reinstall the covers (if equipped). The words «Uncover for pad service» stamped in the pad covers may be upside down when the cover is installed. This doesn’t mean the cover is upside down.

6 Brake system — general check

Refer to illustrations 6.6a and 6.6b

1A routine general check of the brakes will ensure that any problems are discovered and remedied before the rider’s safety is jeopardized.

2Check the brake lever and pedal for loose connections, excessive play, bends, and other damage. Replace any damaged parts with new ones (see Chapter 6).

3Make sure all brake fasteners are tight. Check the brake pads and shoes for wear (see Section 5) and make sure the fluid level in the front brake reservoir is correct (see Section 3). Look for leaks at the hose connections and check for cracks in the hose(s). If the lever or pedal is spongy, bleed the brakes as described in Chapter 6.

4Make sure the brake light operates when the brake lever is depressed.

5Make sure the brake light is activated just before the rear brake takes effect.

6If adjustment is necessary, hold the switch so it won’t rotate and turn the adjusting nut on the switch body (see illustrations) until the brake light is activated when required. If the switch doesn’t operate the brake lights, check it as described in Chapter 8.

7The front brake light switch is not adjustable. If it fails to operate properly, replace it with a new one (see Chapter 8).

6.6b . . . and this is an XV1100 (700 through 1000 models similar)

7Brake lever and pedal position and play — check and adjustment

Frontbrakes

Refer to illustration 7.2

1The front brake lever must have the amount of free play listed in this Chapter’s Specifications to prevent brake drag.

2Operate the lever and check free play. If it’s not correct, loosen the adjuster locknut, turn the adjuster to bring free play within the

Specifications and tighten the locknut (see illustration).

Rearbrakes

Refer to illustrations 7.4a and 7.4b

3The rear brake pedal should be positioned below the top of the footpeg the distance listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

4To adjust the position of the pedal, loosen the locknut on the adjuster, turn the adjuster to set the pedal position and tighten the locknut (see illustrations).

5Check pedal freeplay and compare it to the value listed in this

Chapter’s Specifications. Adjust if necessary by turning the nut at the rear end of the brake cable or rod.

6If necessary, adjust the brake light switch (see Section 6).

8.4 Check tire pressures with an accurate gauge

8 Tires/wheels — general check

Refer to illustration 8.4

Routine tire and wheel checks should be made with the realization that your safety depends to a great extent on their condition.

Check the tires carefully for cuts, tears, embedded nails or other sharp objects and excessive wear. Operation of the motorcycle with excessivelyworntiresisextremelyhazardous,astractionandhandling are directly affected. Measure the tread depth at the center of the tire

and replace worn tires with new ones when the tread depth is less than specified.

3 Repair or replace punctured tires as soon as damage is noted. Do not try to patch a torn tire, as wheel balance and tire reliability may be impaired.

4 Check the tire pressures when the tires are cold and keep them properly inflated (see illustration). Proper air pressure will increase tire Irfe and provide maximum stability and ride comfort. Keep in mind that low tire pressures may cause the tire to slip on the rim or come off, while high tire pressures will cause abnormal tread wear and unsafe handling.

5 The cast wheels used on some models are virtually maintenance free, outtheyshould bekeptcleanandchecked periodicallyforcracks andotherdamage.Neverattempttorepairdamagedcastwheels;they

must be replaced with new ones.

6 Check the valve stem locknuts to make sure they are tight. Also, make sure the valve stem cap is in place and tight. If it is missing, install a new one made of metal or hard plastic.

9.3 Loosen the lockwheel (A) and turn the adjuster (B) to change freeplay (dual-cable model shown)

9Throttle and choke operation/grip freeplay — check and adjustment

Throttle check

1Make sure the throttle grip rotates easily from fully closed to fully open with the front wheel turned at various angles. The grip should return automatically from fully open to fully closed when released. If the throttle sticks, check the throttle cable(s) for cracks or kinks in the housings. Also, make sure the inner cables are cfean and welllubricated.

2Check for a small amount of freeplay at the grip and compare the freeplay to the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If adjustment is necessary, adjust idle speed first (see Section 19).

Single cable models

Refer to illustration 9.3

3 Loosen the lockwheel at the throttle grip (see illustration). Turn the adjuster to give a slight amount of freeplay, then tighten the lockwheel.

Dual cable models

Refer to illustration 9.9

4These models use two throttle cables — an accelerator cable and a decelerator cable. Initial freeplay adjustments are made at the carburetor end of the cable.

5Remove the seat, and if necessary, the side covers (see Chapter 7).

9.9 Loosen the locknuts and adjust the accelerator and decelerator cables

6If you’re working on an XV535 model, remove the upper fuel tank

(see Chapter 3) or the top cover (see Chapter 7).

7On all except XV535 models, remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 3).

8Make sure the locknuts at the handlebar throttle cable adjusters are tight (see illustration 9.3).

9At the carburetors, loosen the cable locknuts (see illustration).

10Turn the locknuts on the decelerator cable to set freeplay to zero, then tighten the locknuts.

11Loosen the accelerator cable locknuts, then turn them to bring freeplay at the throttle grip within the range listed in this Chapter’s

Specifications. Once freeplay is correct, tighten the locknuts.

12To make fine adjustments, loosen the locknut on the handlebar cable adjuster (see illustration 9.3). Turn the adjuster until the desired freeplay is obtained, then retighten the lockwheel.

13 Make sure the throttle grip is in the fully closed position.

14Make sure the throttle linkage lever contacts the idle adjusting screw when the throttle grip is in the closed throttle position. Warning:

Turn the handlebars all the way through their travel with the engine idling. Idle speed should not change. If it does, the cables may be routed incorrectly. Correct this condition before riding the bike.

10 Clutch — check and adjustment

Refer to illustration 10.3

1Correct clutch freeplay is necessary to ensure proper clutch operation and reasonable clutch service life. Freeplay normally changes because of cable stretch and clutch wear, so it should be checked and adjusted periodically.

2Clutch cable freeplay is checked at the lever on the handlebar. Slowly pull in on the lever until resistance is felt, then note how big the gap is between the lever and its pivot bracket. Compare this distance with the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Too little freeplay might result in the clutch not engaging completely. If there is too much freeplay, the clutch might not release fully.

3Normal freeplay adjustments are made at the dutch lever by loosening the lockwheel and turning the adjuster until the desired

10.3 Normal clutch cable adjustments are made at the handlebar — loosen the clutch cable lockwheel (left arrow) and turn the adjuster (right arrow); tighten the lockwheel after adjustment

10.5 The XV535 clutch cable can be adjusted at the bracket on the side of the engine

freeplay is obtained (see illustration). Always retighten the lockwheel once the adjustment is complete.

4 If freeplay can’t be adjusted at the handlebar, check the initial adjustment at the engine.

XV535models

Refer to illustration 10.5

5Loosen the locknuts at the clutch cable bracket on the engine

(see illustration). Turn the nuts to achieve, the correct freeplay, then tighten them.

6If necessary, make fine adjustments at the handlebar adjuster (see Step 3).

XV700through1100models

Refer to illustration 10.8

7Remove the cover from the clutch adjuster on the left side of the engine.

8Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster screw clockwise until it seats lightly, then back it out 1/4 turn and tighten the locknut (see illustration). Caution: Don’t operate the clutch while the locknut is loose.

11.9 Loosen and hold the locknut and turn the adjusting bolt to adjust chain slack

All models

9 Recheck freeplay at the clutch lever and make further adjustments (if necessary) with the adjuster at the lever. If freeplay still can’t be adjusted within the Specifications, the cable may be stretched or the clutch may be worn. Refer to Chapter 2 for inspection and repair procedures.

11 Drive chain and sprockets (chain drive models) — check, adjustment and lubrication

1 The drive chain on models so equipped is completely enclosed in a housing and operates in grease, so periodic lubrication isn’t necessary. If the chain appears dry during inspection, refer to Chapter

5 and remove it for inspection.

Check

Refer to illustration 11.3

2To check the chain, place the bike on its centerstand and shift the transmission into Neutral. Make sure the ignition switch is off.

3Pry the cover from the large hole at the lower front of the rear sprocket housing (see illustration).

4Push up on the bottom run of the chain and measure the slack.

Do this every inch or so along the chain until you find the tightest point.

5Pry the chain up and down and measure its movement, then compare your measurements to the value listed in this Chapter’s

Specifications. If the bike is equipped with a scale next to the viewing hole (see illustration 11.3), the center pins of the chain should stay between the marks. As wear occurs, the chain will actually stretch, which means adjustment usually involves removing some slack from the chain.

6The chain should be replaced at the specified mileage interval (see Chapter 5). ‘»

Adjustment

Refer to illustrations 11.8 and 11.9

7If you haven’t already done so, rotate the rear wheel until the chain is positioned with the least amount of slack present.

8Remove the cotter pin from the axle nut and loosen the nut (see illustration).

9Loosen and back-off the locknuts on the adjuster bolts (see illustration).

10Turn the axle adjusting nut on both sides of the swingarm until the proper chain tension is obtained (get the adjuster on the chain side close, then set the adjuster on the opposite side). Be sure to turn the adjusting nuts evenly to keep the rear wheel in alignment. If the adjusting nuts reach the end of their travel, the chain is excessively worn and should be replaced with a new one (see Chapter 5).

11When the chain has the correct amount of slack, make sure the marks on the adjusters correspond to the same relative marks on each side of the swingarm. Tighten the axle nut to the torque listed in the

Chapter 6 Specifications, then install a new cotter pin and bend it properly. If necessary, turn the nut an additional amount to line up the cotter pin hole with the castellations in the nut — don’t loosen the nut to

‘do this.

12 Tighten the chain adjuster locknuts securely.

12 Final drive oil (shaft drive models) — check and change

1 Final drive oil level should be checked and changed at intervals specified in Section 1.

Check

Refer to illustrations 12.3, 12.4a and 12.4b

2 Support the bike securely in a level position. Warning: The final drive unit may be hot enough to cause burns. Wait until the final drive unit is cool to the touch before checking the level.

12.7a Remove the drain plug ,

12.7b . . . and let the oil drain into a pan, then clean the plug threads and reinstall it

3Remove the filler plug from the final drive housing (see illustration).

4Look inside the hole and check the oil level. It should be even with the top of the hole (see illustration). If it’s low, add oil of the type listed

in this Chapter’s Specifications with a funnel or hose (see illustration), then reinstall the filler plug and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

Oilchange

Refer to illustrations 12.7a and 12.7b

5Ride the bike to warm the oil so it will drain completely. Warning:

Be careful not to touch hot components (including the oil); they may be hot enough to cause burns.

6Remove the filler plug (see illustration 12.3).

7Remove the drain plug and let the oil drain for 10 to 15 minutes

(see illustrations).

8Clean the drain plug, reinstall it and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

9Fill the final drive unit to the correct level with oil of the type listed in this Chapter’s Specifications (see illustrations 12.4a and 12.4b).

10Install the filler plug and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

13 Engine oil/filter — change

Refer to illustrations 13.4a, 13.4b, 13.4c, 13.5a through 13.5c, 13.6a,

13.6b, 13.7 and 13.13

1Consistent routine oil and filter changes are the single most important maintenance procedure you can perform on a motorcycle.

The oil not only lubricates the internal parts of the engine, transmission and clutch, but it also acts as a coolant, a cleaner, a sealant, and a protectant. Because of these demands, the oil takes a terrific amount of abuse and should be replaced’ Often with new oil of the recommended grade and type. Saving a little money on the difference in cost between a good oil and a cheap oil won’t pay off if the engine is damaged.

2Before changing the oil and filter, warm up the engine so the oil will drain easily. Be careful when draining the oil, as the exhaust pipes, the engine, and the oil itself can cause severe burns.

3Support the motorcycle securely over a clean drain pan. Remove the oil filler cap to vent the crankcase and act as a reminder that there is no oil in the engine.

4Next, remove the drain plug from the engine (see illustrations) and allow the oil to drain into the pan (see illustration). Discard the sealing washer on the drain plug; it should be replaced whenever the plug is removed.

5Remove the Allen bolts and take off the filter cover (see illustrations).

6Remove the filter element from the engine (see illustrations).

14.5b . . . be careful not to lose the spacer tubes and washers

7If you’re working on an XV535 model, remove the O-ring from its groove in the cover (see illustration).

8If you’re working on an XV700 through 1100 model, remove one

O-ring from the groove in the cover and another from the shoulder on the cover (see illustration 13.6a).

9Clean the filter cover and housing with solvent or clean rags. Make sure the holes in the filter bolt are clear. Wipe any remaining oil off the filter sealing area of the crankcase.

10Clean the components and check them for damage. If any damage is found, replace the damaged part(s).

11Check the condition of the drain plug threads and the sealing washer.

12Install a new O-ring in the cover groove (XV535) or in the groove and against the cover shoulder (XV700-1100) (see illustration 13.6a or

13.7).

13Make sure the rubber seal is in place (see illustration), then install the filter element in the cover. Install the cover on the engine and tighten the Allen bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specificatidns.

14Slip a new sealing washer over the crankcase drain plug, then install and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Avoid overtightening, as damage to the engine case will result.

15Before refilling the engine, check the old oil carefully. If the oil was drained into a clean pan, small pieces of metal or other material can be

easily detected. If the oil is very metallic colored, then the engine is experiencing wear from break-in (new engine) or from insufficient lubrication. If there are flakes or chips of metal in the oil, then something is drastically wrong internally and the engine will have to be disassembled for inspection and repair.

16If there are pieces of fiber-like material in the oil, the clutch is experiencing excessive wear and should be checked.

17If the inspection of the oil turns up nothing unusual, refill the crankcase to the proper level with the recommended oil and install the filler cap. Start the engine and let it run for two or three minutes. Shut it off, wait a few minutes, then check the oil level. If necessary, add more oil to bring the level up to the Maximum mark. Check around the drain plug and filter housing for leaks.

18The old oil drained from the engine cannot be reused in its present state and should be disposed of. Check with your local refuse disposal company, disposal facility or environmental agency to see whether they will accept the used oil for recycling. Don’t pour used oil into drains or onto the ground. After the oil has cooled, it can be drained into a suitable container (capped plastic jugs, topped bottles, milk cartons, etc.) for transport to one of these disposal sites.

14 Air filter element — servicing

XV535 models

Refer to illustration 14.2

1Remove the top cover (see Chapter 7) or upper fuel tank (see Chapter 3).

2Remove the cover screw and lift off the housing cover (see illustration). Inspect the cover O-ring and replace it if it’s damaged or deteriorated.

3Lift out the filter element.

1981through1983andallTR1models

Refer to illustrations 14.5a, 14.5b, 14.6, 14.7a and 14.7b

4Remove the left side cover (see Chapter 7).

5Remove the Allen bolts and detach the air filter housing from the motorcycle (see illustrations).

6Lay the housing on a workbench. Remove the screws that hold the halves of the assembly together, then separate them and lift out the element (see illustration).

7Check the filter housing-to-frame seal and the seals inside the filter housing for deterioration or brittleness (see illustrations). Replace the seals as necessary.

14.6Separate the housing halves and take the filter element out

14.9 Loosen the clamp bolt and remove the Allen bolts, then detach the air filter case from the motorcycle

14.7a Check the seal between the filter housing and the frame . . .

14.10a Remove the cover from the inside of the case

14.7b . . . and the seals inside the filter housing; replace them if they’re deteriorated or brittle

14.10b Remove the filter element retaining screw, detach the mounting tab and lift out the element

1984 and later XV700 through 1100 models

Refer to illustrations 14.9, 14.10a and 14.10b

8Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 3).

9Loosen the air duct clamp bolt and remove the mounting bolts, then take the air filter case off the motorcycle (see illustration).

10Remove the air filter case cover (see illustration). Remove the element mounting screw and take the element out (see illustration).

All models

11Tap the element on a hard surface to shake out dirt.’ If compressed air is available, use it to clean the element by blowing from the inside out. If the element is extremely dirty or torn, or if dirt can’t be blown or tapped out, replace it with a new one.

12Reinstall the filter by reversing the removal procedure. Make sure the element is seated properly in the filter housing before installing the cover.

13Install all components removed for access.

15 Cylinder compression — check

1Among other things, poor engine performance may be caused by leaking valves, incorrect valve clearances, a leaking head gasket, or worn pistons, rings and/or cylinder walls. A cylinder compression check will help pinpoint these conditions and can also indicate the presence of excessive carbon deposits in the cylinder heads.

2The only tools required are a compression gauge and a spark

plug wrench. Depending on the outcome of the initial test, a squirttype oil can may also be needed.

3Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.

4Support the bike securely so it can’t be knocked over during this procedure.

5Remove the spark plugs (see Section 16, if necessary). Work carefully — don’t strip the spark plug hole threads and don’t burn your hands.

6Disable the ignition by unplugging the primary wires from the coils (see Chapter 4). Be sure to mark the locations of the wires before detaching them.

7Install the compression gauge in one of the spark plug holes.

8Hold or block the throttle wide open.

9Crank the engine over a minimum of four or five revolutions (or until the gauge reading stops increasing) and observe the initial movement of the compression gauge needle as well as the final total gauge reading. Repeat the procedure for the other cylinder and compare the results to the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

10If the compression in both cylinders built up quickly and evenly to the specified amount, you can assume the engine upper end is in reasonably good mechanical condition. Worn or sticking piston rings and worn cylinders will produce very little initial movement of the gauge needle, but compression will tend to build up gradually as the engine spins over. Valve and valve seat leakage, or head gasket leakage, is indicated by low initial compression which does not tend to build up.

11 To further confirm your findings, add a small amount of engine oil

16.2 On XV535 models, remove the Allen bolts and lift off the cylinder head

side covers

to each cylinder by inserting the nozzle of a squirt-type oil can through the spark plug holes. The oil will tend to seal the piston rings if they are leaking. Repeat the test for the other cylinder.

12If the compression increases significantly after the addition of the oil, the piston rings and/or cylinders are definitely worn. If the compression does not increase, the pressure is leaking past the valves or the head gasket. Leakage past the valves may be due to insufficient valve clearances, burned, warped or cracked valves or valve seats or valves that are hanging up in the guides.

13If compression readings are considerably higher than specified, the combustion chambers are probably coated with excessive carbon deposits. It is possible (but not very likely) for carbon deposits to raise the compression enough to compensate for the effects of leakage past rings or valves. Remove the cylinder head and carefully decarbonize the combustion chambers (see Chapter 2).

16 Spark plugs — replacement

Refer to illustrations 16.2, 16.3a, 16.3b, 16.3c, 16.7aand 16.7b

1Make sure your spark plug socket is the correct size before attempting to remove the plugs.

2If you’re working on an XV535 model, remove the cylinder head side covers (see illustration).

3Disconnect the spark plug caps from the spark plugs (see illustrations). If available, use compressed air to. blow any accumulated debris from around the spark plugs. Remove the plugs

(see illustration).

4Inspect the electrodes for wear. Both the center and side electrodes should have square edges and the side electrode should be of uniform thickness. Look for excessive deposits and evidence of a cracked or chipped insulator around the center electrode. Compare your spark plugs to the color spark plug reading chart. Check the threads, the washer and the ceramic insulator body for cracks and other damage.

5If the electrodes are not excessively worn, and if the deposits can be easily removed with a wire brush, the plugs can be regapped and reused (if no cracks or chips are visible in the insulator). If in doubt concerning the condition of the plugs, replace them with new ones, as the expense is minimal.

6Cleaning spark plugs by sandblasting is permitted, provided you clean the plugs with a high flash-point solvent afterwards.

7Before installing new plugs, make sure they are the correct type and heat range. Check the gap between the electrodes, as they are not preset. For best results, use a wire-type gauge rather than a flat gauge to cheGk the gap (see illustration). If the gap must be adjusted, bend the side electrode only and be very careful not to chip or crack the insulator nose (see illustration). Make sure the washer is in place before installing each plug.

CARBON DEPOSITS

Symptoms: Dry sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard starting and hesitation.

Recommendation: Check for a clogged air cleaner, high float level, sticky choke and worn ignition points. Use a spark plug with a longer core nose for greater anti-fouling protection.

OIL DEPOSITS

Symptoms: Oily coating caused by poor oil control. Oil is leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and hesition.

Recommendation: Correct the mechanical condition with necessary repairs and install new plugs.

TOO HOT

Symptoms: Blistered, white insulator, eroded electrode and absence of deposits. Results in shortened plug life.

Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks and sticking valves. Check the coolant level and make sure the radiator is not clogged.

PREIGNITION

Symptoms: Melted electrodes.

Insulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring or flying debris in the combustion chamber. Can lead to engine damage.

Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, clogged cooling system and lack of lubrication.

HIGH SPEED GLAZING

Symptoms: Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicates that combustion chamber temperatures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high speeds.

Recommendation: Install new plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant.

GAP BRIDGING

Symptoms: Combustion deposits lodge between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the electrode gap. The plug ceases to fire, resulting in a dead cylinder.

Recommendation: Locate the faulty plug and remove the deposits from between the electrodes.

NORMAL

Symptoms: Brown to grayishtan color and slight electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions.

Recommendation: When new spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same heat range.

ASH DEPOSITS

Symptoms: Light brown deposits encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel additives. Excessive amounts may mask the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during acceleration.

Recommendation: If excessive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, install new valve guide seals to prevent seepage of oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.

WORN

Symptoms: Rounded electrodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and poor fuel economy.

Recommendation: Replace with new plugs of the same heat range.

DETONATION

Symptoms: Insulators may be cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insulator tip. Can lead to piston damage.

Recommendation: Make sure the fuel anti-knock values meet engine requirements. Use care when setting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.

SPLASHED DEPOSITS

Symptoms: After long periods of misfiring, deposits can loosen when normal combustion temperature is restored by an overdue tune-up. At high speeds, deposits flake off the piston and are thrown against the hot insulator, causing misfiring.

Recommendation: Replace the plugs with new ones or clean and reinstall the originals.

MECHANICAL DAMAGE

Symptoms: May be caused by a foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston damage.

Recommendation: Remove the foreign object from the engine and/or install the correct reach plug.

17.2c . . . and the brake and clutch lever pivots (brake lever shown; clutch

lever similar)

17.3a Lubricating a cable with a pressure lube adapter (make sure the tool seats around the inner cable)

8Since the cylinder head is made of aluminum, which is soft and easily damaged, thread the plugs into the heads by hand. Since the plugs are recessed, slip a short length of hose over the end of the plug to use as a tool to thread it into place. The hose will grip the plug well enough to turn it, but will start to slip if the plug begins to cross-thread in the hole — this will prevent damaged threads and the accompanying repair costs.

9Once the plugs are finger tight, the job can be finished with a socket. If a torque wrench is available, tighten the spark plugs to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If you do not have a torque wrench, tighten the plugs finger tight (until the washers bottom on the cylinder head) then use a wrench to tighten them an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Regardless of the method used, do not over-tighten them.

10Reconnect the spark plug caps and reinstall the air ducts.

17 Lubrication — general

Refer to illustrations 17.2a, 17.2b, 17.2c, 17.3a and 17.3b

1 Since the controls, cables and various other components of a motorcycle are exposed to the elements, they should be lubricated periodically to ensure safe and trouble-free operation.

2 The’ footpegs, clutch and brake lever, brake pedal, shift lever and sidestand/centerstand pivots should be lubricated frequently (see illustrations). In order for the lubricant to be applied where it will do the most good, the component should be disassembled. However, if chain and cable lubricant is being used, it can be applied to the pivot

17.3b Oiling a control cable with a funnel

joint gaps and will usually work its way into the areas where friction occurs. If motor oil or light grease is being used, apply it sparingly as it may attract dirt (which could cause the controls to bind or wear at an accelerated rate). Note: One of the best lubricants for the control lever pivots is a dry-film lubricant (available from many sources by different names).

3 To lubricate the throttle and choke cables, disconnect the cable(s) at the lower end, then lubricate the cable with a pressure lube adapter (see illustration). If you don’t have one, disconnect both ends of the cable and use a funnel (see illustration). See Chapter 3, Part B for the choke cable removal procedure (XV535 models don’t have a choke cable). Note: Yamaha recommends that the throttle twist grip be

18.9a The timing mark for the rear cylinder is the line next to the «T» on the alternator rotor; align it with the notch inside the hole (arrow)

removed and lubricated whenever the throttle cables are lubricated. Refer to the handlebar switch removal section of Chapter 8.

4The speedometer cable should be removed from its housing and lubricated with motor oil or cable lubricant.

5Refer to Chapter 5 for the swingarm needle bearing and rear suspension linkage lubrication procedures.

18 Valve clearances — check and adjustment

1The engine must be completely cool for this maintenance procedure, so let the machine sit overnight before beginning.

2Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Remove the spark plugs (see Section 16) so the crankshaft is easier to turn.

3Lift or remove the seat (see Chapter 7).

XV535 models

Refer to illustrations 18.7a, 18.7b, 18.8, 18.9a, 18.9b, 18.11 and 18.14

4If you’re working on an early model without an upper fuel tank, remove the top cover (see Chapter 7).

5If you’re working on a later model with an upper fuel tank, remove it (see Chapter 3).

6Remove the left and right front side cover (see Chapter 3). Remove the left side cover bracket and the left side cover bracket/electrical component board.

7Remove the rocker covers (see illustrations).

8Remove the timing plug and the crankcase cover plate (see illustration).

9Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket on the turning bolt

(located inside the crankcase cover plate). Watch the edge of the alternator rotor (visible through the timing plug hole) and stop turning when the line next to the T mark is aligned with the notch inside the hole (see illustrations). This places the rear cylinder at top dead center (TDC) on its compression stroke.

10With the engine in this position, both of the valves for the rear cylinder can be checked.

11Start with the intake valve clearance. Insert a feeler gauge of the thickness listed in this Chapter’s Specifications between the rocker arm and valve stem (see illustration). Pull the feeler gauge out slowly —

18.24a The timing mark for the rear cylinder is the line next to the «T» on the alternator rotor; align it with the pointer inside the hole

you should feel a slight drag. If there’s no drag, the clearance is too loose. If there’s a heavy drag, the clearance is too tight.

12To adjust the clearance, loosen the rocker arm locknut with a box wrench (ring spanner) (see illustration 18.11). Turn the adjusting screw with a screwdriver or Allen wrench to change the clearance, then tighten the locknut.

13Recheck the clearance with the feeler gauge to make sure it didn’t change when you tightened the locknut. Readjust it if necessary.

14Turn the engine clockwise to align the front cylinder’s timing mark with the notch in the timing window (see illustration 18.9b and the accompanying illustration). With the timing mark aligned, wiggle the front cylinder’s rocker arms. There should be a slight amount of cleararjjje between the rocker arms and valve stems. If the rocker arms are tight,- the front piston is on its exhaust stroke, not its compression stroke. Rotate the crankshaft one full turn, line up the timing mark again, then wiggle the rocker arms to be sure the front cylinder is on the compression stroke.

15Perform Steps 11 through 13 above on the front cylinder rocker arms to adjust the front cylinder’s valve clearances.

16Check the O-rings on the rocker covers, timing plug and crankcase cover plate and replace them if they’re flattened, broken or have been leaking.

17install the rocker covers and tighten their bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

18Install all components removed for access.

18.24b XV700 through 1100 timing marks

1 Rear cylinder top dead center mark

2Front cylinder top dead center mark

3Rear cylinder firing range mark

XV700through1000models

Refer to illustrations 18.22, 18.23, 18.24a and 18.24b

19 Remove the seat (see Chapter 7) and the fuel tank (see Chapter 3)-

20If you’re working on a 1981 through 1983 model, remove the side covers if they block access to the tappet covers.

21If you’re working on a 1984 or later model, remove the air filter housing (see Section 14) and the mixture control valve case (see

Chapter 3).

22Remove the rocker covers (see illustration).

23Remove the alternator cover from the left side of the engine (see illustration).

24Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket on the turning bolt (located inside the crankcase cover plate). Watch the edge of the alternator rotor (visible through the timing plug hole) and stop turning when the line next to the T mark is aligned with the pointer inside the hole (see illustrations). This places the rear cylinder at top dead center (TDC) on its compression stroke.’

25Perform Steps 10 through 15 above to adjust the valve clearances on both cylinders.

26Check the O-rings on the rocker covers and alternator cover and replace them if they’re flattened, broken or have been leaking.

27Install the rocker covers and tighten their bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

28 Install all components removed for access.

19 Idle speed — check and adjustment

Refer to illustration 19.3

1 The idle speed should be checked and adjusted before and after the carburetors are synchronized and when it is obviously too high or too low. Before adjusting the idle speed, make sure the valve clearances and spark plug gaps are correct. Also, turn the handlebars

back-and-forth and see if the idle speed changes as this is done. If it does, the accelerator cable may not be adjusted correctly, or it may be worn out. This is a dangerous condition that can cause loss of control of the bike. Be sure to correct this problem before proceeding.

2The engine should be at normal operating temperature, which is usually reached after 10 to 15 minutes of stop and go riding. Support the motorcycle securely and make sure the transmission is in Neutral.

3Turn the throttle stop screw (see illustration), until the idle speed listed in this Chapter’s Specifications is obtained.

4Snap the throttle open and shut a few times, then recheck the idle speed. If necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure.

5If a smooth, steady idle can’t be achieved, the fuel/air mixture may be incorrect. Refer to Chapter 5 for additional carburetor information.

20 Carburetor synchronization — check and adjustment

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don’t work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

1Carburetor synchronization is simply the process of adjusting the carburetors so they pass the same amount of fuel/air mixture to each cylinder. This is done by measuring the vacuum produced in each cylinder. Carburetors that are out of synchronization will result in decreased fuel mileage, increased engine temperature, less than ideal throttle response and higher vibration levels.

2To properly synchronize the carburetors, you will need some sort of vacuum gauge setup, preferably with a gauge for each cylinder, or a mercury manometer, which is a calibrated tube arrangement that utilizes columns of mercury to indicate engine vacuum. You’ll also need an auxiliary fuel tank, since the bike’s fuel tank must be removed for access to the vacuum fittings and synchronizing screws.

3A manometer can be purchased from a motorcycle dealer or accessory shop and should have the necessary rubber hoses supplied with it for hooking into the vacuum hose fittings on the carburetors.

4A vacuum gauge setup can also be purchased from a dealer or fabricated from commonly available hardware and automotive vacuum gauges.

5The manometer is the more reliable and accurate instrument, and for that reason is preferred over the vacuum gauge setup; however, since the mercury used in the manometer is a liquid, and extremely toxic, extra precautions must be taken during useand storage of

the instrument.

6 Because of the nature of the synchronization procedure and the need for special instruments, most owners leave the task to a dealer service department or a reputable motorcycle repair shop.

XV535models

Refer to illustration 20.7

7 Remove the vacuum caps from the intake joint fittings (see illustration). Connect the vacuum gauges or manometer to the fittings.

1981through1983models

Refer to illustration 20.9

8Remove the seat (see Chapter 7). If necessary for access, detach the fuel tank and raise it slightly, leaving the fuel hoses connected (see

Chapter 3).

9Disconnect the smaller hose from the front carburetor’s intake joint (see illustration). Remove the rubber cap from the vacuym fitting on the rear carburetor’s intake joint, then connect the vacuum gauges or manometer to the hose fitting and vacuum fitting.

1984through1987XV700models

10Remove the seat (see Chapter 7). Detach the fuel tank at the rear and raise it slightly, leaving the fuel hoses connected..

11Turn the fuel tap to the PRI position.

12Disconnect the smaller hose from the front carburetor’s intake joint (see illustration 20.9). Remove the rubber cap from the vacuum fitting on the rear carburetor’s intake joint, then connect the vacuum gauges or manometer to the hose fitting and vacuum fitting.

1984through1987XV1000and1100models

13Remove the seat (see Chapter 7).

14Remove the mixture control valve case cover (see Chapter 3).

Disconnect the mixture control valve vacuum hose at the T-fitting and connect one of the manometer tubes or vacuum gauges to the fitting.

15Remove the rubber cap from the vacuum fitting o%_tbe rear carburetor’s intake joint and connect the other vacuurrNgauge or manometer tube to it.

1988andlatermodels

16Remove the seat (see Chapter 7) and the fuel tank (see Chapter 3). Connect an auxiliary fuel source.

17If you’re working on an 1100 model, remove the left side cover.

18Disconnect the smaller hose from the front carburetor’s intake joint. Remove the rubber cap from the vacuum fitting on the rear carburetor’s intake joint, then connect the vacuum gauges or manometer to the hose fitting and vacuum fitting.